glassgowkiss

at this moment the gully routes are just bowling alleys raked with stonefall. central gully has rock section in a middle. getting to the left one would be a big problem-looks like horizontal bergshrund overhanging about 5 m. twisting colouir- leva this one for some colder temps. as far as rock- the whole mountain is just a steep pile of rock turd

Climb: Joffre-Flavelle-Lane Date of Climb: 8/12/2004 Trip Report: Joffre in the summer in just a choss pile. even worst candian rockies choss has nothing on this mountain. flavell-lane is just bunch of stacked up blocks with moss thrown on the top of it. central pillar looks like the same deal, but at much harder grade. australian gully doesn't have any snow in it. used the south-east face descent. nothing like described in the guide. so here is the betta for the descent. if there is snow- use the australian colouir. if not- follow the ridge facing Matier. just walking and a bit of scramble will bring you towards the cliffs. go to the climbers left and there is an anchor. don't go to visible one on the slab- there is no safe way of getting to it. we put in one right above a chimney on the s-w side of the mountain. from there 3 30m raps bring you to the ledge (chock stone and 2 kb). follow this ledge to a little col and drop onto glacier. from there just walking. gullies looked like hell, a lot of rockfall all over the place. technically not a hard route, but to put it mildly- very unpleasant Gear Notes: starndard rack, bring a few pitons (kb's)

ice the area. you can freeze some water in a paper cup and massage the area (few times a day). start liightly with stretching your forearm flexors. keep the elbowa straight and extend your wrist (both in pronation and supination = palm down and up). also stretch your anterior shoulders and lateral neck. a lot of arm/ shoulder problems start with tight neck and chest muscles. nerve tissue is fed by axoplasm- you can read some about double crush theory. once the pain is gone think about some balancing excercises. a lot muscular problems start with muscle imbalances. use cross fiber friction (cyriax method) for about 2 minutes every other day. rest and don't start climbing too soon.

reasons 2 brush: 1.keeps it nice for the next person (popular crag or not) 2.keeps the visual impact down (chalk stains running down from holds after the rain) 3 gives you something to do on your way down 4.chicks dig guys with brushes same people who don't brush at the crags leave unfushed turd in your toilet and piss in your shower. they usually live in a trailer park, drive elcamino still wear mullets, watch jerry springer.... same mentalty at least... carry on redneck trash...

chirp, you are a certified wanker- punter. you are so full of shit your eyes turn brown from turd overload. and if you don't brush off holds you deserve to suffer a big dildo up your ass

yeah, maybe on 5.7's. try to get on something more then 12 and then you'll stop talking out of your ass pal

as everyone should in a sport climbing area, what's your point dru?

went to checkemus due to bad weather. fuck- out of something like 20 people climbing there last afternoon not a single wanker even carried a tooth bruch to clean holds. newhalem is caked too. eny of you fuckers even has common decency to clean your crap for the next person???

lost arrow- hope not to burst your bubble. did u ever read a study done by UW on back problems and back surgery. the conclusion of it was that: 1. there is a very little evidence between actual disc hernation and pain. there is a clear evidence between disc hernation and loos of motor function, loss of strength, numbness, atrophy of the muscle or muscle group. 2. over 5 year period there pretty much no pain relief. there is an improvement at first, but the pain returns. 3 the main conclusion of the study was that 90% of back surgries don't even fit criteria for the surgery, hence they can't be sucessful. my advice- do a proper rehab, have the scarr tissue adhesions treated now, stretch, watch your body mechanisc or you'll pay for it later.

climbingirl- your forearm flexors common tendon runs right over ulnar nerve. you have too tight forearm flexors and too weak extensors. use ice masssage (freeze some water in a paper cup) on the inside of your elbow to decrease inflammation. also some cross fiber friction on this tendon would be good. a few years back there was a pretty good article in "climbing", i'll try to find it at some point. also stretch your forearms. remember- your flexors cross your elbow, so keep them straight. recommended Active Isolated Stretching by Aaron Mattes. there was a link to his web site somewhere on cc. since your injury is caused by work not really by climbing, taking time off climbing will not do much for you. maybe file for L&I claim as a work related injury and take care of it now. side note- i worked on 2 people who had surgery to free the nerve, there was zero improvement in both cases. as the matter of fact in both cases the long range outcome was very bad. ciao- r

yes almost every day. check your pm's and call me.

yes RBW most likely TOS (thoracic Outlet Syndrome).

for pt's Sherryl Betty @ B-ham phys. therapy in seahome village. as for acupuncture Ashley Goddard @ Nine Acupuncture, Michelle Siemion would be a good choice. For chiro Erin Simpson @ Back in Motion or Lyndon Keeler (his ph# is 360.715.9010)

Alex, i did send this to your web page right now. a couple of smaller notes. first of all i think areas like Colonial peak or Pyramid are the best with as little snow as possible- hence they are rather early season routes. I would like to see some of them repeated more often. personally i don't think any of them are that hard and any climber who is proficient with WI4/5 can climb these things without any problems. under right conditions they can be fun, moderate and good training routes for bigger ranges.

aaaa, that was you guys who were knocking shit off from angels crest onto the trail on monday.

the name was published and the point is misprinted. same withe the N. face instead of east.

partner found

have unexpected time off mon- thursday morning. want to go climbing. no newbees please. call 360.319.7311

Climb: WA ice guide misinfo- Date of Climb: 7/21/2004 Trip Report: hey, yes i am slow and just opened up wa state ice guide. i would like to get a couple of things straight, as i think they are quite important facts. Pyramid peak- the name of the route is "It ain't over motherfuckers". second the route is on east face not on north face - see the picture. also before you go and traverse the ramp for two pitches you must climb a nasty little section of WI3. as far as the route on Colflax, i think the rating is off. the route should be more like WI4/4+, not 5/5+. the pro was kind of sucky, but in my opinion technical rating should not reflect seriuosness.

chuck, fun climb. but... i would be a bit more conservative with wording. 5.10 with bomb-proof pro isn't all that intense or bad-ass. note on the crux pitch you can stem between 2 crack (on the wide section) almost all the way to the ledge, hence avoid off-with climbing all together. there is a bolt rigth before this section, so there isn't really any need for #4 or 4.5 camalot. 3.5 will be enough. fun route though. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=2860&password=&sort=1&cat=998&page=1

snow conditions suck ass. this year the weather is complete shit. good luck

depends what u want to climb. for the nw face rotes cerise is the only way to go. also for the descent australian gully is the ticket

maybe something longer, but easy like grand wall (squamish for sure) if the weather is iffy routes on nightmare rock

looking for a partner for this tuesday.

rudy, to answer your question. go to index and get on some 5.9's. as far as milti- pitch routes get on stuff at wa pass or snow creek wall. so if the route has 11b rating i would expect to get a little workout. did hyperspace 2 weeks ago, guess what? u actually have to climb on 9's and 10's. to finish my answer- if it was rated as 5.7 with short 10b sectioon- yest it would be a good route, if the rating is like it is - a complete let- down.