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glassgowkiss

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Everything posted by glassgowkiss

  1. check your pm's
  2. u have to give weights at least 8- 10 weeks for your muscles and tendons to catch up. so don't start till then i suggest. any time u are re-tweaking it u set yourself back by days sometimes by weeks.
  3. ok, #1 is to get rid off apin. use ice, then ice/heat treatment. ice till the stinging on the surface of the skin is gone. ice-heat 3 min each and finish with heat. as far as stretching- go to a pt ot someone who does sport rehab. rule #1- if it hurts- DON'T DO IT!. as far as treatment- it depends what u have- so get a proper diagnosis of the condition. there are several things that might be happening and your treatment options depend on what u actually have. u might need more of the strenghtning and muscle balancing program rather then stretching. imo most of the shoulder injuries among climbers are due to muscle imbalances, bad posture and overdevelopment of muscle groups (like strong latissimus dorsi, weak rhomboids and tight pectoralis/serratus anterior combined with protracted neck). a side note- that md, who gave you advice just wasted a bunch of your time. in general a lot of md's- surgeons in general think that the surgery is an answer and their rehab knowledge is minimal to put it mildly. so my advice is to go to a pt or a chiropractor- specially someone who works with athletes. in a moths or so i should be able to write something more comprehensive on shoulder rehab on my web page. like i said, you also can always call me for advice- ciao- r
  4. first of all start icing it, much better then ibo or alleve. second start with gentle stretching. ab, addduction, internal/ external rotations. i'll write much more, but i am just back from poland, so give me a day or so to catch up. also you can just call me 360.319.7311 since i need a bit more info on this injury to give you a proper advice.
  5. read- mask the pain and wreck your liver or kidneys. good advice- elevate your calfs for 10-15 minutes above your heart. use 3 min ice/ 3 min heat treatment finishing with ice (about 3- 4 times each). maybe use stationary bike for about 20-30 min a day. in the future warm up more, then take your time cooling off- at least 30 min. it takes up to 3 hours for the muscle to cool off. strech your calfs by raising your feet towards your knee with your leg straight, bent to 90 derees and with your foot next to your gluts (buttocks). hold stretches for 2 seconds and repeat 10 times each leg. the pain you are feeling is not lactic acid, but torn muscle tissue. vitamine C also can speed up your recovery. and for crying out loud don't overdo it next time- back off with your training and LISTEN to your body!(and don't listen to stupid advice)
  6. as far as littlewet the van leaves 4:00 am sharp from b-ham every sat morning, as long as there is ice. so you can always catch a ride with the crew.
  7. hey check the sale on westjet. $86 CAN one way from abbotsfort to calgary- 1hr flight. what sucks- now u have to pay for parking though. abbotsfort is less then 3 hours from seattle. tlg- i might be going there over thanksgiving- if u need a ride.
  8. some pics and some short tr's, so people can see what i am up to. i guess more for general public. a lot of my patients were asking me to do a slide show or something like that. i just think, since i pay for a space on the server might as well use it.
  9. to say that they are in good shape is understatement. these puppys are like new! saw them last night.
  10. looks like this part of the web site is more about injuries then training. i started my own web site as of today. jon is cool enough to link my web page to this section- thanks! so here is a deal. i will be trying to answer as much as i can about injuries. muscle/ soft tissue is my field. on my web page i will post some FAQ, i started this a week ago, but i am leaving for 2 weeks, so i will not have time to deal with this for a bit. i will also have some interesting articles posted, focused on climbing related injuries, but not only. one more thin- this is free service, so please be patient. as you know i travel a lot. also i work quite a bit when i am in b-ham, so don't expect me to drop everything and sit in front of the comp. if the matter is urgent, just call me- it's much easier to deal with this over the phone. anyway- the address to my page is www.robertrogoz.com don't worry, i'll still be a nasty prick as far as my voice in other sections, exept this one. here you can count on my opinion as a practitioner.
  11. yes they will, just don't close your case! tell your pcp you want to try rehab for a few months. if you are not happy, let's say in about 6-8 months then try the surgery. i would start with agressive icing, maybe by now ice/ heat treatment. from my own experience using stationary bike withour any resistance restores function to the joint the best.
  12. and this is what i am talking about. let it get better for a period of few months and see where you are at. in a meantime keep your muscles strong, flexible. hydrate well, keep icing it. if you don't like what you have, you can try surgery, but then usually the outcome is much better and you heal faster. i am not agaisnt surgery, but it should be your last resource, not the first one. jb, you pain had more to do most likely with meniscus then acl. acl is stabilizing the joint. it's a ligament. most likely you had also torn part of cartlage.
  13. my take is try not to oparate at first. try a rehab and see where it gets you. if you don't like the results you can always go for the surgery later on. surgery on a joit, well inside the joint WILL increase your chances for osteoarthiritis later on. good luck
  14. plus husume (sp) on the top of black comb glacier- best mixed climbing around. access to joffree isn't bad either. tantlus range isn't far from b-ham. 120 for heli ride to red tit call.
  15. Ummm, eight inches? only?? anyway, it's girth that counts
  16. dru, first of all these were not my words. gia rote something to climbing, of course without consulting me about it. later on franklin used my picture for their full page add without my concent. sore subject.
  17. so hey brown-butt-nugget. so what hard riggs did you send?
  18. well, let me see. how about rude boys, churning, darkness for starters. spon in the hidden forest cave, but that one was only 12a time's up, aggro monkey, fuck it was so many years ago. oxygen. fuck, i just noticed my copy of smith guide is gone. anyway- just a few off the top of my head. enough or you still want me to scan my memory for more?
  19. i don't know about you, but word sticks would be better. oh i forgot, how can u tell your roomate is gay?
  20. it's going to be sending frienzy this weekend. nolsy is going to os scarface and downrate it to 12a, fucking team pope/cavemen is goint to os to bolt while protecting it with tri-cams and hooks and rate it pg. layton is going to demostrate proper usage of velcro gloves (both for climbing and non climbing). oh yeah, one more little note. for all you stick clipping wankers. caution. my friend used to have one. soon he found himself sucking cock for wine money in the dihedrals...
  21. no no time. leaving to poland on 15th, then going to turkish rivera (akyarla), back here, then off to the rockies and then east coast over christmas. have to work at some point. btw, it's victoria marathon, so i am busy on sun. plus listening to river of verbal turd from people like nolse would make my blood pressure too high. getti'n old...
  22. You have been misled... smith grades are fluffier than the down coats worn by the grade inflators themselves (aka sportos) so shittalker, let's hear exact routes are overrated? and what's the base for your opinion? btw, what's your hardest route rp and os at smith (for you)? calling your shit wanker. you talk big, but i think you are talking out of your ass. and what hard routes have you done there. and by hard i don't mean 11's or even 12's, as easier 12's are used by climbers for a warm up for harder riggs. i think i have pretty good handle on this subject, since i lived on both sides of the pond. after living in bend for nearly 9 years and climbing there resonable number of routes i must say your statement is just pure turd you dolt.
  23. why do u find it funny? i think it's quite logical
  24. haha, you see in europe you have to move to the side, even on secondary road to let the faster car go by. it's the law! in the good old us of a u are supposed to move if there is 6 vehicles behind you- a rule completly ignored (how many fucking times did i find myslef blowing my gasket stuck behind some assclown going 35miles below speed limmit?). more road rules: on freeways if you are on the left lane and you get rear ended it's your fault! left lane is for passing only, so if someone slammed into your trunk it's beacuse you should not be there in the first place. this whole thing is spray (like most of the topics here)
  25. what are you trying to produce. so far i have seen only a river of verbal turd and pissing match (i have a big part of it) i would argue about trad climbing being training for alpine- it can be. it's like trying to say that bouldering is training for sport climbing. it can be, but some people never roped up in their life.
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