glassgowkiss

looking at the weather i am vary glad we did bag this day. looks miserable

both places blow donkey dick. consider applying for canadian residency.

i don't think the conditions in the mountains are good for climbing at this point. there is a lot of deeeeeep snow, we are supposed to get another 6" today. go ice climbing around hope- you might wait for conditions like this another 7 years. go and do Mr Freeze or repeat Anthrax Ripple. The Plum is in. or go put up a new line.

i think ultimate one in the lifetime ice route would be N face of Robie Reid- the waterfalls to the right of Pacemaker. I wonder if someone would fly over and look at this face?

no the conditions didn't suck- i didn't go. i might be crazy, but i am not stupid. anyway- the weather is kind of all over the place. it was +9C this morning in Hope (and light rain) and -8C in Whistler at the same time. the temps are have dropped since.it's supposed to drop to -9C tonight in hope. it actually might make decent turf for climbing. we will see on sat.

Mr freeze is in. rap anchors are in place- top tree on the left and abalakov half way up. solid wi5. dry line on the left side of the pilar, extremly wet on the right. riddler was extremly wet, cryptonite is not in. the wi3 by the tunnel is in and at least 2 parties did it sun. water music and under big top have sections missing.

should be good for alpine. ice is usually jan/feb.

quebeck was very nice. also visited adirondacks (2 days on pitchoff). pont rouge is fantastic place, better later on in the season, when the river is frozen. st alban was fantastic place for dry-tooling. want to go back. didn't do anything long or burly, so there is no reason to write tr. the only comment i would make that pont rouge has such a sitty rock you can actually bash your picks into it! st alban has everything from M3 to M10 and it's all bolted!

so where is the guide book?ice is in, no book though.....

it's more like winter's salty breath.... wtf are the snow plows? and fucking drivers in b-ham, why in the hell did they buy theiir friggin suv's since they can't drive them anyway. a bunch of clownpunchers if you ask me

don't have the new guide yet- so what is the superheros and where. any info on blue moon on rye?

don't have hip waders. now on the other hand what about blue moon on rye? is it in?

so anybody can confirm tre's burly is in (before i drive all the way up there)

minx- stfu. you don't know what you are talking about. winter conditions on a route don't have anything to do with winter ascent. as far as Hymalayas goes - this has to do more with permits than calendar. as far as i remember they used to issue winter permits from Nov15- Mar1 (i might be wrong on this one). but it has to do more with spring season- they start on mar 1. as far as winter ascents go- they have very little to do with conditions. rules are rules dec 21- mar 21. so sorry, but no fwa.

or fly to chamonix and climb some real routes (instead of 50 classic dirt piles)

bill, bored at work?

i have heard about dremmol tool used for sharpening. the only question is how it effects the heat treatment of the metal. plus you can do some real damage. after all, they use cnc machines to get the teeth manufactured. i use a very small metal file, flat on one side and rouded on the other. i also modify pick, when i put them on. i take down the first tooth, so it hooks better on edges. i was convienced about the sharpness of the picks in 95. my pick broke on ribbon pitch on polar circus and i climbed 3 pitches with broken pick, at -20C. it took about 1 swing more to get good stick, then the other hand.

i don't bother anymore. maybe like 1 or 2 times a season. i keep the screws sharp, but in no way it matter as far as tools and crampons are concerned.maybe on some ultra thin ice, but then again, they will be dull in a couple of swings anyway

well, this topic (as usual) deterirated to spray session from hell. keep up the good work. i won't be around for new year this time. i'll be drawing some sheep on unsuspecting fuckers in ontario and quebec, shshshshseeeeepppppshshshshsaaaaaaggggg

hello? ding-dong morning bells are ringing. so why do you think it is like that? do you think the majority of these people choose to be uninsured? i can give you quite a few names of people dropped by insurance company as soon as there was a serious health problem. and the myth of going to the practitioner of your choice? yeah a myth as the person you want to see have to be on the providership list. well all i can say canadian system looks better and better every day. oh btw can anyone tell me this. a friend of my had distal tib/fib fx a couple of years ago. he was in hospital in calgary for 3 days, had surgery. his total bill from the surgery and hospital was about 7400 can. when he had his hardware removed in boulder he was told the same surgery would have been over 20 000usd. can anybody tell me why such discrepency between the prices?

that has bnothing to do with insurance premium increase, since it's less then 1% of the cost. it has to do with inurance structure (insurance companies make the most money of the stock market investments with your premiums). it has also to do with insurance processing claims, something like 120-150 days on average. that is the biggest cause if rate increase among health care providers. that and payment refusal for services- yet a lot of clinics get stuck with unpaid bills. insurance company refuses to pay and a person doesn't have to resources to cover it either. no- more like thatnks to Bush and his administration for not dealing with the problem. madical savings accounts are not the answer, the reform of a stupid system is. a lot of clinics and practitioners do not accept any insurance anymore. they'll provide you with "walk-out receipt" or "superbill", you pay at the time of service and try to get your money back from the insurance.

your wife is expensive?

yeah, i'll pm you a bm. i'll piss in your sandbox anytime i want asseyes.

honeslty it was a time issue. krzysiek had to be at work monday morning, so did i. i don't think we would be able to walk out that evening. red wall wonderers is an adventure and fun climbing in one. and no river crossings.

now they'll have a bunch of members.......