glassgowkiss

now it says 2C, it was 7 earlier. my point is that when it's sunny you can climb even when it's only 5C. and there is pretty much no decent ice left, avi forecast sucks, this sucks donkey dick.

plastic fantastic!

couldn't say it better myself

that ties to the whole political and constitutional system. 200 years ago this country was created as a rebelion against the establishment of british empire. well, while the rest of the world went on and now we have a parliament with prime minister in GB, this country operates under the same set of laws from 200 years ago. and the same mentality which prevents political change causes this "christian" attitude/behavior. as these religions (starting with luther) were created against the dominance of catholic church. even this last institution reformed itself many times since a lot of fundamental christians want to turn the world to 17th century (as well as muslim fundamentalism is trying to turn it into 11th century). it's also about public preception: there is almost identical number of abuse cases in protestant churches, yet the media is not blowing the horn on this one. let's take the divorce rate: #1 nevada with Missouri not far behing. as the matter of fact 9 out of 10 states are from south-east (ie bible belt)- so what's up with that? this administration has nothing to do with christianity or moral values. while clinton lied about receiving a blow job from the intern (guilty of boning an ugly chick) this administration waged a war lying to the public about wmd. ok as the result over 1300 us soldiers dead, similar figures among soldiers of fortune(private contractors), how many iraqis- we will never find out. bin laden is out and about (remember he not husain is responsible for sep 11th) NATO contributed 16 000 troops to afganistan, while us keeps about 11 000! this administration uses "moral values" only as it is convinient for them, words like honesty and integrity do not exist in their vocabulary. i am talking not only about GWB but the whole administration. and their hand-in-hand policies with russia- that's criminal.

forrest M wrote:"thank you, that is exactly my point. the story of them being the first women in this instance is interesting because in addition to the mountaineering story, there is also the issue of overcoming prejudice and stereotypes. though i have not read the book, i can certainly imagine that this COULD make an interesting story. in the hands of a hack, it could be patronizing and it might make me want to puke, but it could also be inspiring. i certainly don't know one way or the other. what pisses me off is the blanket dismissal of this author as "feminist bullshit", as if feminism is some kind of bad word. to me, people overcoming the limitations that other people want to put on them is inspiring. at heart, that's what feminism is about. bob, i'm not sure what the point of listing WR's impressive resume is. noone is disputing the fact that she was a badass climber. but why do you think women started putting together "women's" expeditions in the 1970s. Could it be because many talented women climbers couldn't get their foot in the door with the climbing establishment that controlled funding for the more conventional expeditions? it seems to me that the fact that WR climbed everest with an austrian team before being invited to join later polish expeditions kind of proves my point, but i don't know the details, so maybe not. women's expeditions have gone out of fashion and maybe they're no longer necessary. maybe that's a sign of progress, but it doesn't mean that they were ridiculous in their time." forrest, i just posted earlier some of the names of polish female 8000m summiters. http://www.gia.alpinizm.pl/pismo/gia/pol8000.htm so in the top 25 climbers there are 4 women. you must agree, that's pretty much the ratio you will see in the mountains (actually normally is more like 40:1). so this is my point. if among these 25 climbers there wouldn't be any women or one- yeah you can call discrimination. but if there is a 20% ratio of female climbers and the same ration goes to 8000m peaks, then what's your point about boys club? it would be good to hear opinion of real female alpinist. and i am sorry, but neither numbers nor my personal experience agree with your statement.

let's close this thred and go to spray, it's where it's at.

van leaves bellingham for skaha, space aviable this weekend

depends if sun is out or not. but it is 8C in Penticton now.

JayB - nice explanation. (and my point). someone said i am dissing the book without reading it. yes- and this is why: 10 years or more passed since these events. there were several books already on the market and climbers involved are dead, so what new can you write after all thse years? looks like analysis of the analysis. and wrap it into feminism- oh yeah, i'll make some ca$h and have speaking tour. bogus.

so forrest, first Pole to ascent Everest? Wanda Rutkiewicz in 1979, before polish national expedition did fwa. she was invited by austrian team. so what's your point anyway? as the matter of fact in the 80's there were 3 female national expeditions to 8000m peaks. there is a book by Ewa Matuszewska "Uciec jak najwyzej" and a couple of other books (don't remember titles, one was by Wanda Rutkiewicz), so there is your source of info. read them and then we will talk. get the facts before voicing your opinion. some facts for you: Wanda Rutkiewicz: 1. Mount Everest 16.10.1978 2. Nanga Parbat 15.07.1985 3. K-2 25.06.1986 4. Shisha Pangma 18.09.1987 5. Gasherbrum II 12.07.1989 6. Gasherbrum I 16.07.1990 7. Cho-Oyu 26.09.1991 8. Annapurna 22.10.1991 Anna Czerwinska: 1. Broad Peak (Rocky Summit) 30.06.1983 2. Nanga Parbat 15.07.1985 3. Mount Everest 21.05.2000 4. Shisha Pangma Central 06.10.2000 5. Lhotse 21.05.2001 6. Cho Oyu 25.09.2001 7. Gasherbrum II 02.08.2003 Ewa Panejko- Pankiewicz: 1. Gasherbrum I 16.07.1990 2. Shisha Pangma Middle 02.05.1994 Krystyna Palmowska: 1. Broad Peak 30.06.1983 2. Nanga Parbat 15.07.1985 Halina Kruger-Syrokomska, Anna Okopinska- G2 G3 FA: 1975 Polish Female Expedition. there is full list of all ppolish climbers who summited on 8000m peaks:http://www.gia.alpinizm.pl/pismo/gia/pol8000.htm and as you can see it completly oposes your statement.

"Jennifer Jordan will be giving a talk tomorrow, Tues Jan 25, 7:30 PM, in KANE 220 at UW on her new book, Savage Mountain. The book chronicles the lives of the first five women to summit K2, three of whom perished on the descent. The remaining two died several years later on other Himalayan peaks. (The sixth woman summitted K2 in 2004.) The book portrays their strong independent spirits, the turmoil of entering a tradiationally male sport, their insatiable [lethal] desire to climb in the death zone, their struggle to find balance between mountains and family..." i am so fucking sick and tired of this bullshit. fucking bitch is trying to make money under this pseudo-feminism banner. this is a complete load of crap tranformed into paper. fact: alpine climbing is a male dominated sport (activity)- so what. it's not like climbers discriminate against women. it was the situation with sport climbing 20 years ago- look now, it's about 50/50. and at this point there are women climbing almost at the level of men. and i don't see much of discrimination happening. lack of women (not male domination) in alpine climbing exists because they choose not to do it (yeah, smart). i wonder how did she contact Wanda Rutkiewicz? since she is dead for the last 10 years (weedgee board?). this is lame

"the turmoil of entering a tradiationally male sport"- this is a load of bullshit. one of the women who climbed k2 was wanda rutkiewicz, along with burarrds. she died later on on kanchenjunga. now the reason i call it bullshit that the only reason it's "traditionally male sport" is that female climbers have usually zero interest in this kind of climbing. i mean give me a fucking brake- this is another conspiracy theory. let's face it- alpine climbing on 8000m peaks is brutal. it's a lot of hard work. so if women in general choose not to do it- fine. but don't try to shove some pseudo- feminism into alpine climbing, i just don't buy it. and as the matter of fact wanda shared this opinion. so jennifer jordan can fuck off

gettin' desperate. thinking skaha this weekend.

so is it on or what? and where and when. bill should show up so, what's up with darin? fuck this town is lame!!! it looks like they add bromium to the water- people are so dosile!

Because I can't afford to replace my existing Axars, and what's more, if I can only have one set of tools for now, I need something that plunges well in the alpine, where my main interest lies. So, I have to make them somewhat liveable for WI climbing that I *occasionally* do, and the freelock leashes that are on them right now just aren't as user friendly for that. if you "climb" stuffthat majority you do is plunging you can get by with light straight shaft tool and ski poles with w whipped.

i just don't know how much sense leashes make at this point. after climbing for about a year now, i am convinced leashes suck. i went 3 weeks ago on mr freeze with my leash tools and they absolutely suck. i don't think you get less tired, can't match hands, your wrists are restricted, hands rest more against the ice, so i don't see any advantages to leashes. this reminds me when i started climbing everyone was still using ambilical cords with the tools. i think switching to leashels is mre mental barrier then anything. i was just watching in quebec a couple of newbies learnig to ice climb and they were using leashless tools. they were doing it quite well. then one of them took some cobras and it was miserable for him.

so where does it hurt? is it on your finger or in your forearm? usually when it hurts on the finger itself we are talking tendon pulley, if the forearm is torn muscle belly or a tendon. the two later tend to last not so long, but the tendon pulley might last for up to 6 months.also - doest it hurt crimping or openhanded? might be also ia ligament. usually ice, forearm stretches, light muscle balancing excercises bring results within few months. figure out what happen. are your forearm flexor muscles overdeveloped and chronically tight? brace will hinder blood flow to the area, so usually they hinder the recovery. ice for first 72 hours, then ice/heat. light stretching at first, then more agressive after the pain is gone. then light stretching followed by some moderate climbing and then u are ready to start training again. go slow, don't fuck it up for good.

so what is your question?

fuckin' a - so many sheep so little time...

i'd say- stay home

ok dru, current temp in littlewet is +4C at 1;30 pm. it's -1C at top of 7Th heaven (Blackomb). anyway, the point is that it is warm. we had 2 weeks of real winter in hope/frazier river area and it's spring time temps with copius volume of rain. while the avi conditions are high in the rockies, they are extreme on the coast. besides, there are several areas in the rockies (like ghost waporius, some stuff in the kananaskis), where there is no avi danger at all, so there are still options for climbing even on a weekend like this one. plus, let's face it- they had ice since end of october, so if you don't go out for a weekend by this time is not such a bad deal. on the other hand we didn't get any ice till end of december. so for ice season here these temps are a real pisser. dru, let's face it, you can't even start comparing coast conditions to those in the rockies as far as ice goes. they have it, we don't, so don't try to pretend like there is even a comparison

i know how the conditions are since i talked to someone from calgary 2 nights ago. it's not that bad. they had 2 weeks of temps as low as -40C and highs of the day -30C. so the ground is so frozen at this point that even a couple of days of warm temps won't melt much. anyway, it'll get cold enough soo, and there is is plenty of ice for climbing left for the rest of the season. unlike here. dru, you just admit it, they have conditions for ice we can only dream about. and no, 2 weeks of decent climbing around here every 5 or 7 years don't mean shit. that's why every other wanker there can lead wi5 or 6 while here people spray about top-roping wi3.

i don't think anything will be left even around lilloowet, check this out: Today .. A few showers. Wind becoming south 30 km/h this afternoon. High 11. Tonight .. Cloudy. 40 percent chance of showers this evening. Wind south 30 km/h becoming light this evening. Low 5. Friday .. Cloudy. 60 percent chance of showers in the afternoon. High 8. Saturday .. Cloudy. 60 percent chance of showers. Low 5. High 10. Sunday .. Cloudy. 60 percent chance of showers. Low 4. High 8. Monday .. Periods of rain. Low 5. High 8. i can't believe this!and this is january??!!!

Text Forecast from Environment Canada Banff: Issued 5.00 AM MST Thursday 20 January 2005 Winter storm warning in effect. Today .. Periods of rain or freezing rain. Snow above 1500 metres. Snowfall amount 5 to 10 cm. High 2. Tonight .. Periods of snow. Amount 5 to 10 cm. Low minus 7. Friday .. Clearing in the morning. High minus 3. Saturday .. Cloudy. 60 percent chance of showers. Low minus 5. High plus 4. Sunday .. Cloudy. Low 2. High 5. Monday .. Cloudy. 30 percent chance of showers. Low minus 3. High plus 3. doesn't look like anything will be collapsing soon.