chris

As I understand it, the Preiss Route and Infinite Bliss are distinctly different. The Preiss Route 1) enters the face around the 5th or 6th pitch of IB, 2) follows a series of traversing ledges across the face, crossing IB at least twice, 3) rejoins IB for the infamous unbolted pitches below the headwall before 3) taking a different finish to the left of IB. I can't find a satisfactory photo of the face, but if someone posts it, I'll trace out what I think is the Preiss Route versus Infinite Bliss. For alpine respect, it doesn't get any better than a Grade V solo on something as committing as the South Face of West Garfield. Hat's off to Preiss - it's an accomplishment that many of us, I think, desire for ourselves. But the Preiss Route, as far as I can tell, is not Infinite Bliss.

Sounds like Serratus got too big to give good customer service, but too small to move enough product.

AAJ sumbissions can be sent to John Harlin at: John Harlin III Editor, American Alpine Journal 2912 Dee Highway Hood River, OR 97031 USA johnharlin@gorge.net; aaj@americanalpineclub.org phone: 541-354-6142 fax: 541-354-6143

Check out this conversation, with some great information from Stefan. "MRNP Gate Hours in the fall" http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/398123/an/0/page/0#398123

The only gate on the westside that I know of is the Longmire gate. It typically opens around 8 or 9am, they stop traffic at 4:30pm, and lock it up at 6pm. If you do reach the gate after that, you can call a ranger from the National Park Inn who will open the gate for you, especially if you act humble. The only time I've ever witnessed the Nisqually gate locked was when it snowed lower than Longmire. So perhaps you were confused.

Hey Don, Any updates on being able to order a copy directly?

I've had the same problem as Forrest, but solved it like Dru...

Any reason given?

As I get it, accidents with 404's and 500's usually involve expectations for them to release like a downhill binding - which they don't. I have a pair that I purely use for approach skis on climbs. If I'm going backcountry skiing, then I use a different pair. If you're looking for one binding setup to do it all, I'd recommend a pair of Fritschis. Scarpa Invernos and Alphas do fit securely.

OK, I figured out the date range options. It seems a bit silly that the default is for any messages newer than one day. But I can't find a way to just see the original post of each thread of my search, which was an option before the upgrade.

Everytime I try to run a Search, it only shows results since the "upgrade." Anyone else have this problem or am I just f*ing up?

Bellingham is ours now Amen to that - we want to have a referendum in the next election to have Whatcom County seceed (sic?) to Canada. Enough of this shit...

I can think of a couple of reasons for his style as well. Hanging stances are notoriously difficult to maintain a uni-directional pull, and sometimes it might be worth the risk of shocking loading to have a self-equalizing anchor. If its a concern that loosing your stance will also cause you to loose your belay capability, a third piece can be used to mitigate. You can't rely on the cordellette in every instance. In a guiding scenario, the guide shouldn't make some assumptions that I might make when climbing with friends - like their ability to keep still at a hanging belay anchor or to maintain the belay in a big fall - unless the guide and client have climbed repeatedly together, and a history of reliability has been established. Since the guide is making all of the final decisions, they must be more conservative in actions.

Check with Wilson's in Bishop and SP Parker at Sierra Mountain Center. SP has a decent notebook of topos for the Portal.

How big do thier balls need to be? 20, 30, 40 foot runouts? I wish someone would clarify the bolting on this route, particularly how far apart the bolts are and how close to natural protection they are. How it is such a monstrosity.

Thanks Dan!!

A friend in Seattle told me about some bolted climbing between Maple Falls and Glacier on Hwy 542. I've tried a couple of searches here without luck. Can anyone tell me more about the climbing potential around Bellingham EXCEPT for Mt. Erie?

Dr. Dan at Olympic Rehab. He's next door to the Small Mind & Body gym in Fremont. Works on athletes, and is more into preventative than maintenance.

I was thinking of last year's party at the Tractor. Is there going to be another this year? Anyone know details?

I agree with CJ. The market is dominated by higher priced skis, and $600 seems to be a pretty damn good deal. But thanks for introducing me to Scotty Bob - his designs are interesting.

You should check out Powder and Freeze's ski reviews. $600-$650 for a fat ski is the best deal (new) you're going to find!

You should check out Powder and Freeze's ski reviews. $600-$650 for a fat ski is the best deal (new) your going to find!

So I was fumbling around TGR website, and it actually occurred to me to scroll down the tour listings. Turns out that the date I report earlier, at the Showbox, is the SUPER SHOW. There's a number of other dates, including 28 October at the Mt. Baker Theater!!! www.tetongravity.com

You guys Thanks, especially dberdinka!!!

Are there any good climbing adventures to be done in a day, from Bellingham to the other side of the border? I could also do 1 1/2 day trips, i.e. drive in the night before, alpine start from the car, and go all day. Just looking for ideas, and Beckey's bible doesn't help me with driving times... Thanks!