chris

Hey, I only know of MEC. But there has got to be other gear shops. Any privately owned, core shops in Vancouver?

There wasn't a much exposed rock when I skied past it last month. But it dries out a lot in the summer...

Marko, I got to disagree with you, this is what I posted when Preiss wrote that letter...

Yeah, that was too rich...

I think this conversation overlaps - a lot - with re- and retro-bolting. Often times, my issues are the same. Here are my considerations for removing bolts: 1. Are they dangerous? Old, rusted, etc.? Then they get the chop and usually replaced. 2. Will removing them scar the rock further? This is LNT applied to the vertical. I know of one crag that I won't chop a squeeze-job because I don't think I can keep from damaging the rock further. 3. Were they placed by the FA team, or are they sanctioned by the FA team? If the FA team is unreachable, I ask the local community for an opinion. 4. Is there adequate traditional protection nearby that can substitute? Sometimes the FA team had good reason for not using that crack, so I like to try to ask them in consideration #3. This is just what I consider when removing or adding bolts... Oh, and about the tuning fork. Let me ask around. It was my understanding that it would work, but you're right about 5-piece bolts. I'll ask a few people wiser and with more experience and let you know what I hear...

Joseph, you were exactly who I had in mind.

you got me

OK, I did my own bloody search and found that original thread. Thanks to NOBODY for simply answering the bloody question. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post485031

Actually, it does. Surprisingly well.

What the hell?

An easy way to remove the bolt is with a "tuning fork". Take a #8 knifeblade piton and cut a fork into it about 3/4 - 2/3 of the length. With a hammer, you can use that to tap out the bolt, even if you can't loosen the nut on the bolt.

If anyone is still in town, are you interested in grabbing a beer at the Rogue on Thursday? 8pm?

But then someone will get pissed that CC.com is tacitly supporting IB's very existence instead of railing for its destruction, but willing to ignore similar multi-pitch sport routes elsewhere in Washington...so let's not.

In my experience, G12's climb ice better. Sabretooths climb rock better. I have both. I use the G12's more often.

The mosquitos probably have something to do with the "Feathers Lake" that has formed in the middle of the camping area at Vantage (due to some genius' idea of how water should drain from a depression when blocked by a road). I think the water and mosquitos may somehow be related. Just a hunch.

I just retired a beal rope for the same reasons you described. The core flattening was also more pronounced in the ends of the rope than the middle. I've never seen a rope do this. This happened after 18-24 months of heavy use (I can't remember precisely when I bought the rope), so I'm attributing it to normal wear and tear and abuse on a rope. I still buy Beal and recommend their ropes.

Have you not heard about the scene in Europe?

In Asgard and out Snow Creek. The car shuttle shuffle isn't too hard.

Can people remind me what was shotcreted along the railroad tracks in the Whistler-Squamish corridor?

For climbing, supertopo's forum seems to be the most inclusive, though it still focuses most on the Valley

Here's another hypothetical. Say a multipitch route was bolted and graded "X" by the FA team. When the FA team is interviewed, it turns out that they bolted it so sparingly because that was the total number of bolts that they had at the time. When someone comes along and asks for permission to retro-bolt it, giving the route an "R" rating, one member of the FA team says "Sure!" but his partner in history says "HELL NO!" Do you need both member's permission to add bolts?

Are there any other ways to access the bluffs?

I plan on keeping them.

I have large to Xlarge hands .. love it .. I will agree that with a heavily insulated glove on, the clearance between the Horn and grip is a bit tight but not a real problem I agree too. I did some window shopping this past winter, and even with my big hands this is the pair I'm buying in the fall to replace my cobra's.