chris

I've already made plans for that weekend - but the dates change or my plans change, I'm in.

You have to get a permit to camp in Boston Basin as it is. Usage is limited already. Ditto for Colchuck lake. Usage is limited because of the square meter impact that multiple parties, with their own tents and sense of privacy, demand. If a hut could be built in the same place, and sleeps the same number of people as the current quota allows (or a few more), the overall impact on the landscape would still be less. Huts are not like highways - building them does not mean they automatically encourage use.

New Zealand has a different perspective and a different approach. Huts are seen to minimize impact by concentrated the majority of the impact in a small area. Instead of ten campsites spread out over the edges of a meadow, there is a hut that sleeps 20 people. The cost for reserving the hut is typically a few dollars more per day than the normal camping permit, which makes users consider the weight of the tent versus extra cost. Most people opt for the hut. There is a lot of parnerships between the government and private organizations - many of the most popular huts were built by climbing, skiing, and hiking clubs - these clubs manage, maintain, and post wardens on popular weekends and holidays. In some cases the huts have been built by the clubs and turned over to the DOC for management, in other cases the DOC partially funded the construction. The Department of Conservation (NZ's only national land management agency, a result of 1970's government consolidation), has built and managed a huge number of huts as well. Newer huts are prefabricated insulated aluminium panel construction, helicoptered in, with outhouses. Some huts are closed for the winter. Warden's are typically responsible for two-four huts, and spend two weeks on, two weeks off (alternating with another Warden) hiking from hut to hut, checking on conditions, permits, and repairs. This is a super popular job with college students, teachers, and retiree's. Huts are located with 20km of every trailhead. I'm guessing about half again have another hut located a day's hike further in, and half again have a third. Huts sizes vary from sleeping three to thirty, with some of the club huts being able to pack 50+ on a crowded weekend. It can be a very quiet or a very social experience, all depending on where you go. All hut reservations can be made from DOC offices in local communities, even for the club-managed huts. Personally, I would like to see this approach adopted here in the states outside of wilderness areas. I believe this is the greatest compromise, and protects our limited resource the best.

I've had a sat phone for Alaska expeditions, but we only used to it call out. Leaving it on to receive calls while on the move is pretty useless, since the antenna has to be oriented - plus its pretty battery intensive. Sorry, that's my experience. Perhaps DPS or someone else on the board can correct me.

One of the proposals right now includes making illegal alien status a felony crime. This means they could be imprisoned instead of deported, and they could be refused legal immigration status in the future because of the felony conviction. OK, I've got to go to class. Catch ya'll later.

Underworld, straighten me out... Are you claiming that the protesters, being primarily Latino, must also be primarily illegal?

Racism is not a buzzword. It is very real, and it exists, and to ignore it means to allow it to grow. I listened to the stories my grandparents and parents told me. And I witnessed it in the South growing up. Fair enough. But what are the police supposed to do - pull aside every protester who appears illegal and check ID's? On what criteria? Their color of skin? The Consititution does not say these rights are only for citizens - does it? So the right to assemble and protest belongs to everyone in this country, regardless of their status of citizenship. And there are protests in Mexico - and in el D.F., all the time. Visit Chiapas, or read up on the Zapatistas, who are still active in the country. Hell, read Reforma or El Universal to see it for yourself.

G-spot's right. And DC, racism is based on physical characteristics, most often the color of skin. The protests to date have been primarily Latino, though I heard that the LA protests had a significant number of Philipino as well (they are the second largest immigrant group in California). So are all the protesters illegal immigrants? Am I? Of course not - but Underworld didn't make that distinction in his post. Its completely jack-assed. And if underworld didn't mean for his frustration or confusion to appear racist, I'd like him to say so.

Patagonia - and a lot of small manufacturers - can't afford to warehouse a lot of product. Patagucci and Cloudveil in particular state very publicly that they would rather have a shortage of product than a surplus, claiming that their economic loss of sales is less than the economic cost of excess.

"please help me understand how a protest of illegals can be escorted by the police?" He claimed that the protesters are illegal aliens. And how do you know that my skin isn't brown too? Have we met before? If you assume that someone is illegal based on their skin color, that's a racist stereotype. If underworld is brown skinned and is assuming that the protester's are illegal because of their skin color - that's still racism.

Luke, a question, I was reading down the blog and you mentioned students getting paid $5000 to form anti-protests. $5000 per student? Is that reliable? Also, was there any confirmation of this - students from different groups, or a second source making the same claim? It just seems a little fantastic. You're right. It sounds like things are getting a little crazy. And I'm worried that the PRC is just looking for an excuse to provide "military assistance" to provide "stability" in Mongolia.

How the fuck do you know that they're illegal??!! Because their skin is brown??!! If that's your logic, you're a fucking racist, and you should make sure not to introduce yourself to me if we ever meet in the world.

Yeah, where is this - it sounds interesting. Any references?

The spring season of the Bellingham Dawn Patrol will be kicking off this Wednesday, 5 April. Meeting place: Parking lot in front of Starbucks in Sunset Sqare, Bellingham Meeting time: We will be LEAVING the parking lot at 4:30am, so get there before 4:30 to meet and arrange carpools. Return time: Back in the Mt. Baker carpark at 10:30am. We'll make plans for next week there. This means we'll be back at the Starbucks no later than noon. RSVP here so the patrol gets an idea about how many to expect... Due to time constraints and participation, please come equipped and trained. Please shout out if you have any questions about what this might mean...

From the 13 March report: "The deepest accumulation was beneath Liberty Bell where snow was more than 45 feet deep over the highway." Impressive

Check your PM's

Chad - Check out: High Sierra, by RJ Secor Climbing California's High Sierra, by John Moynier and Claude Fiddler Secor's book is the equivalent to the Beckey guides, while Moynier & Fiddler is more like the Alpine Select. Good luck!

Immediately to the east of Mendel is Thompson (in fact they share the same bivy), with four couloirs splitting its broad north face and go at AI3 and AI4. The North Couloir on North Peak up by Lee Vining is AI3/4. Then of course there is the U-Notch and V-Notch couloirs down in the Palisades, which were in decent shape last year - and as long as the snowpack is average or above average this winter they should be again this year. And these are just the half-dozen that are do-able in a long day or a day-and-a-half that immediately come to mind. I'm sure if I sit down with Secor's book I can find another half-dozen that require a full day's approach. There are also a couple more - Checkered Demon and Clyde Couloir come to mind - that come into condition and then melt out each summer. For route conditions when you arrive, you can check in with three resources: Mammoth Mountaineering Supply on Main in Mammoth; Wilson's Eastside Sports on Main Bishop, and Sierra Mountain Center on West Line in Bishop (www.sierramountaincenter.com). Have fun!

www.nwac.noaa.gov - for current avie and mountain weather forcasts www.turns-all-year.com - direct links to telemetry stations

Last year the alpine ice routes in the Sierra's were incredible in August and September. You could always change plans and head south instead.

Advanced backcountry skiers wanted for a spring Bellingham Dawn Patrol. Weekdays, back in town by noon. Must already have avalanche rescue and forcasting skills. PM your e-mail address to me if you're interested.

Klenke is famous on this site for ascents exactly like what you're looking for. Checking out his trip reports might help...

I have to agree with Mr. E. I can appreciate Dallas' desire to create an "old school" guidebook, with hand drawn maps and topos, but some of the "trails" he describes cross 4th class terrain. My first few trips I took the dog along - I don't make that mistake anymore, unless I'm positive he can negotiate the terrain (he's good, but he's no Biscuit). The guidebook is great - I appreciate all that Dallas has done in developing the crag and all the time spent writing the guidebook, but with a digital camera and microsoft publisher it could have been a lot better.

Mos- Are you talking about the boulders near the Bachar area?

Helps a great bit - trying to decide to go ski-touring or go climbing.