chris

Yep - like what they said. I'll take them off while staying in the bindings, but usually take my skis off to put them back on.

I forgive you.

I am confused as to what, exactly, my fee at the Pinnacles is paying for. Its been several years since I've been there, but isn't the lot dirt, there's one toilet, and the trails are all built by volunteers? If that's it, how costly would it be to simply lock the bathroom, post no camping signs, and have the Sheriffs ticket illegal camping instead of illegal access?

It's my understanding (and maybe Matt P can back me up), the Stinson Reserve will have a trust attached to it to ensure funding independent of the State Park budget, so that if cuts like this happen in future Index can't be effected.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/972986/gonew/1/Mixed_training_crags#UNREAD

That's not what she said.

If you could only play golf with three clubs, which three would you take?

Have they found and recovered him? Any news on services.

Always on ice or in the alpine. Most of the time on gear routes. Some of the time on sport routes.

Oh sarcasm - so much fun to give, but so hard to hear!

If its not to late, my two cents are: 1. If the FFA added the bolts, leave them. 2. If the FFA team gave their blessings to have bolts added after their FFA, leave them. 3. If neither 1. nor 2. is the case, chop the extras and don't replace. That meets my definition of re-bolting.

I first met Dallas as he TR-soloed some route at Mt Erie. I always appreciated the work he did on that mountain. Than I kept bumping into routes that he's done throughout the Cascades, like the Kloke route on Mt Kent. I'm happy I got to see him one last time at Index, celebrating climbing. He is missed.

I agree with JH - its worth it!

Hey Hugh, Yeah, I didn't think they really had the sex appeal to make it on tgr's forum. I opted to craigslist them. Thanks! Chris

I've got a pair of resort-boards to sell, and I'm not sure that here or TAY is the best place to sell them. Do any of the local ski clubs have forum boards? Does anyone have ideas?

Dan - definitely have to get together. Hope everything is ok. Alex & JPark - thanks, that was exactly the information I was hoping for.

The AMGA training and certification program meets the same international standards that the ACMG does. In fact, the ACMG sponsored our membership into the IFMGA/UIAGM. Comparing one national guides training program to one company's guides training program is not a fair comparison. Though, to be fair, the American Alpine Institute uses AMGA Certified Guides to instruct their guides training program, so the AMGA curriculum is trickling down. I'm not aware of any professional guide services that "rely merely on hotshot climbers who want to earn a couple of bucks for summer work." If your concern - or only experience - is with the more institutional nature of the larger guide services, then I'd encourage you to consider smaller guide services such as North Cascade Mountain Guides (Mazama) or the Northwest Mountain School (Leavenworth). These companies offer competitively priced, custom instruction and guiding. Both encourage their guides to pursue AMGA training and certification. Finally, I have to argue that there is never any dignity lost in hiring a guide. Its curious that you argue that by hiring an ACMG Guide through the ACC (as you advocated) you would loose less dignity than by hiring a guide from an AMGA accredited guide service - where you could insist on being given an AMGA Certified Guide! There are countless examples of first ascents of routes and peaks by guided parties. How valuable is your time? Some don't have the luxury of traveling to a new destination to spend 1/2 their time figuring out where to go and how to get there. Others have enough time to get fit, or enough time to gain experience, but not both. Hiring a guide provides a valuable opportunity for some to get out into the mountains.

I've been considering the Spot II for 3 day+ trips without cell phone reception, where calling for help will be considerably faster than hiking out or waiting to be overdue. A client recently used a Spot II on our trip, and I liked the small size, simplicity, and ruggedness.

The crux of the matter is UV damage - dyneema/spectra material ages faster than nylon due to sunlight. For a recreational user like yourself, consider replacing dyneema slings every three years, and nylon slings every five.

Hey team, In four weeks I'm finally moving back to Seattle after a long "sabatical" down in California. When I left, I knew of two crags available for mixed training. Is there anywhere new? I'm really wondering if there's a new wall amongst the Exits that it might be ok to scratch up in the not-ice-season. Way excited to be coming home - see you soon!! Chris

Robert- So what happened? How was the trip?

Fantastic - nice work!

FYI - guide services often recommend plastic boots because on wet, overnight trips its easier to dry out a pair of liners (in your sleeping bag) then a pair of leather boots, no matter how well insulated.

Dane, I believe your premise for the poll is incorrect and misleading. To my knowledge, skiing or climbing, without a rope above 10,000 is not "illegal". Please check the MRNP website - I cannot find any such requirement. As far as I'm aware, the park defines soloing as climbing without a partner, not climbing without a rope. I encourage you to contact the Chief Climbing Ranger to answer this question, and let us know what you find. Thanks! Chris

RJ, The snow level is around 10000 and melting fast, especially on southern aspects with lots of exposure. The road to Red's is still closed. I'd expect some snow amongst the trees and around Shadow Lake, but still be OK with it right now. As long as the temperatures remain at or above normal - like they are right now - you should be ok.