Sol

my buddy has a 00 tcu hold a 12 ft fall on freeway. it umbrellad, broke two cam stops, and sheared 1/3 of one lobe off, and held! amazing stuff those small cams.

http://www.ebaumsworld.com/video/watch/38940/

Baker got 20 inches in 24 hours! Word!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the great show Wayne Wallace!

word

finished a bit to the right (it was a weird finish). after running laps on ROTC and mistakingly gettin on in search of the perfect pump to start out the day, we were a bit worked, so maybe that's what was up. but it seemed leagues harder than each of those routes. ??? who knows, thanks for the info. the dagoba system looks rad, a worthy bolt replacement project.

TR'd it a little bit ago, and either i'm not worthy, or something broke off that bitch, but that rig has got to be the hardest 11d ive ever been on. I couldn't make out any blocks to sling or pro that would make it a reasonable lead up to the first bolt. has the route changed or is croft just a major sandbagger?

you got fucked bro. its your karmic fine for assuring me you had some ropes that were "all good" for goode.

i just bought my wife a 70m beal in the valley for $140, its a badass rope!. The one thing i've heard about beal's is that the sheath's fuzz out real quick. My wife's new rope is so damn slick a a little sheath fuzz would proabaly be great.

Yesterday, while finishing off the last rap of Heavens' Gate, my partner and I couldn't help but notice the line described as a "project" in Cramer's Sky Valley book, between Heaven's Gate and The Golden Road. What's up with that thing? The top half looks awesome, sustained dyke crimping with old rusty 3/8 inchers and no hangers. While the bottom half appears to have drilled pockets and holes, half of which are filled in with glue, coming in from the right. Any stories on what happedned to this line? I don't think i can send it anytime soon, or ever, but the direct line from the ground looks stellar and proud, and could someday be the first index 5.14 (i.e., 13b sandbag, ) Thoughts?

11c crux on n face of rostrum

Plexus: we each filled up a gallon of water at a stream right at the start of the technical climbing on the ridge. You could brew up at the snowfield just past the summit of the SE Peak if you felt the need. Dan: You're right, the pictures just do not do justice to the terrain and length of that ridge. From our initial rap off of the main tower to the SE peak seemed like it took forever. We were rolling, simuling 5.8, downclimbing with bad ropedrag, I kept on looking back at that first tower, and it seemed like we were going nowhere. Overall, the rock was pretty good. When it got bad it wasn't kitty litter bad, it was just dirty with loose stacked blocks everywhere. We negotiated that big tower just past your guys bail point with a 5.7+ traverse that was actually on some pretty good rock. The rock was good from there, with a bit of spice on the SE Peak Headwall. The towers on the summit ridge were cool. It dropped off 3000 ft on the north side of the ridge, and every now and then you'd have to swing you body around the void on small footholds. The rock was good, and the penultimate crux came at the very end with an invigorating and overhanging, downclimb traverse. Complete with good gear, a key sharkfin flake, and 3000 ft. of exposure, the "tiger-shark traverse" was awesome.

Great TR Blake, thanks for the great adventure. Here's a few more shots from a highly scenic 3 days: Nearing the headwall on the SE peak: Negotiating gendarmes on the improbable upper ridge: The man with the master plan: The Bivy: The View: Blake was a great partner and really knows this area with amazing detail. For 3 days he tour guided me through every single peak, trail, valley, and lake in the area. While on route he continued with interesting trivia about the many historic ascents taken place on Mt. Goode over the years. On the drive in Blake seemed displeased when i came out of the Concrete grocery store with a 40 oz. of PBR to stash in Bridge Creek. Apparently PBR just doesn't measure up to his 21 yr old sensibilites. Well, 3 long days later, while changing into sandals back at the car I hear a tell-tale, "Psssttttt", and look around the car to see: WORD!!!!!!

Nice fuck this, im going to cali!

easy to do in a day with short fixing. there is so much fixed gear a large rack is not necessary. one skyhook is all that's needed, set and a half of nuts, double rack from blue alien to #2, single 3 and 4. the old school A3, is now C1+. no pins or hammer needed.

it aint true. the bolt protects the move from the ledge above the crux out onto the exposed face climbing with the same blind placements to get back into the corner.

my buddy's dog fell in that one on the way to snow creek wall. he ran like mad and was just able to rescue her before the canal became accessible. even though she has four limbs with claws she could not climb out. it was scary. down in cali there is an irrigation pipe that goes through hammer dome in the calalveras dome area. Apparently its common practice to take the slide through the hammer. no thanks.

you are off the hook yo! raise the roof.

never thought about it, you must be lost in your assumptions bro/bra. how do you know dirty-gaston doesnt swing both ways?

*hot*! hey pink_chalk i can introduce you to me friend in the photo, dirty_sloper. he's a real good guy. eric8: not sisu.

here's one:

WARNING: you need a 70m rope for the last Heavens Gate rap.

i cut my teeth backpacking and getting hypothermia on katahdin when i was 13, your TR brings back uncontrollable shivering memories, thanks!

nice TR, looks rad!