Dane

Agreed, to original post that was deleted. Boot/axe belay is very effective and very fast. Also...ski pole self arrests? Not all that useful in the back country..but better than nothing. I'd suggest if you are going to ski terrain where a fall might well be dangerious to get the right gear for the terrain. Ski pole grips with the ability to self arrest properly. Black diamond offers them as do others. On even black diamond runs at a ski area a ski pole self arrest is of minimal use imo.

You think? I don't see much difference between any of these designs. Some similarity on all these and some subtle differences as well. The Grivel Air Tech and the BD Sabertooth have similar length down points. Likely the Vasek fits in there as well. G12, Cassin and Sarken have similar over size fronts and angled downs. BD has stainless steel and is a true working 14 point crampon instead of 12 as the rest are. 14 down I think is a distinct advantage over all the rest but not a huge advantage like what all of these have over "sport" crampons like the Dartwin on moderate terrain. The Sarken has the combo horizontal/vertical fronts. Grivel Air Tech the widest foot print. Past the nuances they all climb pretty much the same on any terrain as far as I can tell. Some advantage of shorter points all around on mixed. Big first angled fronts have some advantage on moderate ice or softer snice/alpine ice. But not likely something you'd notice unless you have climbed on all sorts of crampon styles in lots of different conditions I suspect. Something inbetween? Maybe...I haven't used them on really hard Alaska or Canadian alpine ice to give an opinion. But really hard to compete with super thin, forged and easily replacable front points in those conditions. I would think better compared to the Sabertooth for the distinct differences of the two over the others listed above. But would like to hear anyone's comments either way. 10 pt "sport" 'pons...some more sporty than others. 12 point "tech" 'pons...and able to change roles easily.

Carlos is a big fan. But then Carlos can climb most stuff with a club and a nail through it when he is in the mood. The e-climb stuff feels good with some innovative engineering. But to be honest I was a bit put off by the cosmetics so passed at the chance...and happy with my rather plain jane Nomics.

http://www.e-climb.com/ Carlos is part of the e-climb team. He'll also demo their tools for you in Canmore.

I too asked about the Neve heels "only" option again. I think that will be an easier option shortly. But hey what do I know, I'm just a Joe Blow as well

The Fin (great climbing) or third class ledges (spectacular position) as the finish to the G/S are both well worth the effort. The climbing below is both fun and moderate. Route finding is easy and the chimney can be avoided by the obvious corner Best part is the G/S is "the" plumb line on the face. A favorite: Eric's picture of Lucie on the Fin.

Vector? Same issue as the other sport crampons...Vector lacks a middle set of down points simply to save weight. Even DR found the frames flexed on the Vectors in his R&I review. Poor choice as an all around 'pon imo. No bots available and cookie cutters need bots more than any other design pattern. And the BD lwt combi is a full 5oz lighter. And only 2oz heavier per pair in full steel.

Sorry, I've no clue on old or new bails. I got all my spares last year from Petzl and all have angles. The only issue with the smaller Petzl bail wire is they seem to work harden over a couple hundred days of actual climbing. At least that is the current theory on Petzl stainless wire and why it breaks.

No worries, hope it helped. Be curious as to how you like them.

Must be talking about me 'cuz don't think Marc has done PC last we talked. Not that he couldn't with ease. You? Not likely. Climbing is a lot like fighting...always some one bigger and badder out there with his mouth shut ready to slap you around like a rag doll. Best to shut the fuck up so you don't look so..... stupid.

You can order the heel pieces as a stripped spare part from BD customer service. Fairly common mod. Then just add what you need from your steel set up. I was thinking it was my bad knee this winter on moderate ice till I switched from Dartwins to the Sabertooth for a lap on Carlsberg. Amazed at just how much more stable and secure the "old" style 'pons felt and climbed. Wish they made a Sabertooth with the 2 Cyborg fronts for Alaska. I cut my link bars down as well. Depending on the boot size..the asymmetrical bar can really improve the over all fit. I generally use Petzl front bails for fit. Lost the bail straps long ago no matter what crampon i use. I use the asym bars on my Trangos but not on the Spantiks. Pic is on Trangos, 'pon much better centered on boot, with the bar marked for cutting

You think?

'cuz you have been acting like a tool. Have been for some time. Tone it down to the level of your actual involvement in the sport. Then peeps won't make nearly as much fun of you. Not my business, just say'in Marc already has a climbing resume' that many here would envy and he aint spraying about it. So no one (mostly) makes fun of him. I'm just waiting for Tamara to find out Marc is gay so I can weasle in on the hottie

'cuz you can/have actually climbed, have a girl friend and oh, I forgot...can't actually recite every climb or boulder problem you have done in your life. May be that is why. You can't recite/remember them all....can you?? Naw, didn't think so

This from the guy who seldom rated anything harder than ".11c" bitd *Fun* is just a personal peception. So Daryl, your thoughts on what Thin Fingers should be rated?

Not the "clean version"...been a while. Either way sounds great and a trip to NAD even better. Thanks to all for the heads up on that. Yes on the SC ledge...problem for me is always getting onto that ledge and clipping the anchors or the other way around. Anyway I've done it, the last body length seemed harder than expected and the crux for me.

Saber has one more set of down points, equal length downs and climbs water ice (5+ and up) just fine. Gotta buy new fronts on either if you wear them out. Down side the Peztl levers suck, and will bite soft boots but the wires are skiiny ( i like) and some times break.(I don't like) The BD wires are thick (don't like) but never break and levers work on any boot. Bots are better on the Bds. Stainless is nice but nothing magic. Advantage for climbing? Sabertooth...one more set of points and equal length points. Seriously good design work on this one. No advantage on any type of ice to the teeth on the Sarken fronts..cosmetics only. Nice design but no real advantage to the vertical/horizontal combo of the front point design that I can discern climbing. G12s are very similar and I find them better on pure ice than the Sarken. BD slightly better than either. G12, Sarken and Sabers all climb about the same...advantages to Sabertooth (imo) as noted. Agreed on the Dartwin/Dart...suck for general use. Both are sport 'pons that lost a set of points to save weight...bad design imo...as much as I like them for weight. Any of the three generics climb better. The Sabers much better. Bunch more about 'pons on my blog. Stripped LWT Sabertooths on my Spantiks.

"I was saving it for the onsite but now it's so built up in my head thanks to people like you calling it hard I'm kind of scared of it...and had to resort to swearing, thrutching and hanging more then I would have liked...I definitely do better on routes with distinct cruxes and good rests." Don't be...the SC crux is literally clipping the anchor with good gear in the crack as high as you can place it...just save some for that last few feet. Frustrating for sure, but nothing scary about it. I definitely do better (on the internet) and on routes that have no crux and lots of rests Dirty? Yep, LL is dirty or at least was unless something has changed.

Do you mean the 2nd pitch of City Park or Leapin' Lizards? No 5.11 found on either. I thought .10b. Lizards is more sustained. How ever I do find clipping the anchor on Slow Children a sand bagged .10d Dude, you really need to get out more.

Looking for a short pair of skiis and bindings that will fit mtneering boots. Quick cash for the right pair.

An all time classic, well done!

Most folks who actually know how to rate a climb do it on sight and on lead. Since '78 the upper thin crack has developed a couple of blocky steps that make the final finger crack after pulling past the bulge (which was the crux) much easier. TF never was a technical 5.11 but an endurance climb, rated 5.11 because the pro was suspect without cams. IMO it is the easiest "5.11" at LTW. Best may be to ask Daryl Cramer what he now thinks TF should be rated. "Chris Henson plugs a perfect cam on Thin Fingers (5.11a), Lower Town Wall." Photo by Ben Gilkison / www.bentroy.com http://www.climbing.com/exclusive/features/index_279/index2.html

The Extreme GTX and the regular Trango GTX get a lot of use in Patagonia (not like I would know from being there) but from what I have read. http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/ Take a look at his Fitzroy solo couple pages back or the solo with the helmet cam this winter. I like and use my Trango Extremes a lot. Nice lwt option to the Nepal. Hard to think of a better lwt and warm boot to do it all, if they fit your feet.

Dave Dingleman's thumb in his photo of Dale Bard arriving at Birdwell's RURP anchor on the first ascent of Sea of Dreams. And not a locker in sight

Climb more, rant less.