Dane

My impression was Sun-Ice wanted some exposure...and they did well for the climbers and themselves. http://www.sunice.com/

http://www.climbwithus.com/#/gear-up With a little more reading on the web site seems like the Zero-Loft Aerogel insulation focus is simple hocus pocus. Bait and switch. The clothing system Jamie is actually using is Champion's/Duofold version of every other climbing suit many of us use now and anyone can buy off the shelf. The flip side is there have been some amazing advances in insulation. Primaloft being one of them that has a extremely high Clo value. Beyond what its thickness would indicate. Pumori base camp aint Everest mind you. Nice gig if you can get it though. Abbott is the R&D behind the project. He leaves a lot between the lines here. "Pearson: How did the summit suit work? Abbott: As you can imagine, the summit suit and its warmth without bulk functionality is still a work in progress. We are very far along with it, and it will be the most technologically advanced and challenging piece of apparel gear we develop. We learned quite a bit on Pumori, and we will continue to test new refinements in the Canadian Rockies this winter. We had some technical difficulties (Drew caught it..doesn't breath) with it at altitude, which is exactly why we wanted to field test it in the Himalaya. Abbott: Gearwise, it was the importance of staying dry. You’re going to sweat and having the right gear to keep your base layer dry (again doesn't breath) is absolutely paramount. You can insulate all you want, but if you’re wet, you’re miserable. I also learned that you’re never comfortable and nothing is easy." Drew already got the major issue, it doesn't breath. Does it compact? 4x better than down? ..water bottle insulator...a sleeping pad...insoles (all already available) and now a "super suit". It's possible but a huge leap imo. Won't be the first NASA technology used in climbing clothing that flamed, sputtered and died. Ever heard of "Francital". Similar idea from 30 years ago. "The aerogel layer is the primary insulating material and is sandwiched within three other layers that provide wicking, reflection of body heat and wind resistance. They say it is four times as warm as down." Almost exactly what Francital said back then...and almost true except it didn't breath either. It was good enough that it bacame the unofficial canadian guide's winter climbing/heli ski jacket. Zero-Loft Aerogel obviously has some potential. Be interesting to see if "we" can really afford (in several ways) the results. What I see that is true is an amazingly good pr stunt to this point.

"A very european style route which climbs a steep crack line for 15 metres on trad gear, before a delicate swing on to a slender stalactite leads to the top. It’s generally considered pumpy scot 7ish to 30 metres of WI5+ish. Difficulty aside it’s an awesome route with an airy feel." Just thought it was a good stoke pic. http://www.alpineexposures.com

Having both jackets here I have to call bs on all the temp comparison and the craftsmanship of FF. FF makes great bags. Incorportaing bag technology into a jacket wasn't the best transition imo. More details on that in the upcoming cold thistle blog review. Warmth? The EB has a full 1" + more loft when compared side by side. Hood/pattern cut? Both jackets being designed for similar use it should be fairly obvious which offers more warmth and protection. Eddie Bauer XV $269 retail 850+ down Feathered Friends Front Point $429 retail a 850+ down

well done..thanks for the TR!

This thing is building...no one told FR that winter is over. 4 today and it may hit a 3 before it falls down in March. Someone is bound to ski it sooner or later Great day out in the sun with Wayne and Josh. Thanks the boot pack guys!

I was betting on an hr and a tiny bit of change..... But just for fun seems like 2 and change is reasonable Simply amazing.

Awesome TR guys! Way to get out and get some. Welcome to winter alpinism Good summits are few and far between and damn hard to get up generally.

Thought this worth a bump two years on from the original post. Not much has changed since the original post. But a few things can be better definded now. Be fun to readdress each issue of the original post after a few weeks out again up north.

For once we agree..so I did a little editing myself.

MEC makes some outstanding gear. Haven't seen the $62 piece and it may compare well to the R1 which retails for the silly price of $150!!! Even at the typical $90 on line sale price the R1 is no steal. But I do like the style of pull over. MEC hoody is a must see. Thanks for the link Drew.

Starved

Thanks for looking in Bill. The blog review was on the Patagonia "Sun Hoody" which costs $65 retail. It is the little brother of the R1. The R1 hoody was mentioned in passing as another good piece of gear

I kinda chuckled at the grade. But Will is straight up, how the line got done and he pulls as hard as anyone. Nice effort! http://gravsports.blogspot.com/2010/01/spray-on.html Love Will's comment, "Really steep routes do require more bolts low, but I did a couple of aid moves between every bolt--I put one in when I started to really worry about decking, and that's as bold as I'm going to get." The guy climbs...and seldom/never sprays.

12/2/09 30 days later, looking good....but still 6 weeks to go. The man is going to have some tender toes for a while yet

Some editing going on above....thought for a moment it was JK speed editing again. How about less of the typical CC.com spray and you just go climb the damn thing and worry about the rating later. Flow Reversal is simply one of the best ice routes in Wa. and well worth doing no matter what the rating. But FR is barely 100m of climbing generally and hardly worth a long conversation. Here is a good read on point: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2010/01/conditions.html

For those interested I've started a blog for gear reviews and may be a few climbing notes thrown in as well. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/

Thanks guys and a little more stokage for you The money is on the 2nd pitch. And every time I'm reminded that it is one of the most fun sections of steep ice I have done anywhere, ever! The 2nd pitch is just over 100' but always well worth the walk. The other two pitches are around 130' each and neither of them give aways. Roger Strong and Chad Kellogg on an early ascent. Shows much of pitch 1 & 2. Photo from a similar position on the snice yesterday conditions looking down from mid pitch 2 with better ice. And the third pitch in lean conditions mid February last year. And Pu high on the first pitch last year.

Trip: Source lake - Flow Reversal Date: 1/30/2010 Trip Report: Simply one of the best ice routes in Washington. And it seems to always come into shape....in one version or another. Flow Reversal, Feb. 15 '09 Flow Reversal Jan 30 '10 Rafael Haroutunian leading the crux after I drafted in his trail breaking all morning Ratings can be all over the map on this one, WI 5R, M5, 3 to 5 pitches can be had, or it can be WI6-R and no M rating or if you are lucky WI5-R and no rock. It is a water ice climb in an alpine environment so it is all about conditions. Today they were good. Gear Notes: Depends on the amount of ice. 3 raps to get off, one v thread and two trees. New tat and rings left today, Approach Notes: Get someone else to post hole up the hill for you...hopefull another climbing party going elsewhere on the buttress No one else showed today Rating drops two points if you have a boot track to the alcove.

Your top photo... FAT Not FAT '09 (2nd) corner pitch shown above This is the bottom 2 pitches of Flow Reversal in way, way fat and easy conditions. Two longer and more moderate lines on climbers right here as well. The "one pitch wonder" you guys climbed on climber's left of FR can be moderate mixed or solid WI 3 when lean. Love the last little shield of ice on this climb. This one is way fat as well right now and a great climb. We generally get a full 60m+ pitch out of this one. Nice work! FAT http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2588/210/0/1099338977/n1099338977_30396515_6295041.jpg' alt='n1099338977_30396515_6295041.jpg'> More climbing left and right of this line as well in these fat conditions. Here is what they looked like last year in mid February. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=867796

From Scarpa's web site specs on the Phantom Lt single. I didn't get the specs on the 6000. or the prices. Upper: Cordura® and Elastan 10% (S-tech Fabric) Lining: Waterproof-OD/Primaloft Insole: Pro-Fiber Midsole: PU/TPU Sole: Vibram® TT3 Last: AG Sizes: 38 – 47, 48 (half sizes) Weight: 900g; 1lb 15.7oz Color: Orange I'll have more details on a size 45 once the boots start to ship, which is next month I hope. Worth mentioning that I stopped by the Scarpa booth at OR show intentionally wanting to look at the previous generation of the Phantom 6000. I was disapppointed seeing what I thought was only the new Phantom Guide on the booth wall. So I asked if the 6000 had been discontinued and the sales staff handed me the new Phantom 6000 shown here. It is such a low profile dbl boot that I had missed the 6000 thinking they had put out two pairs of the Phantom Guide for show. I was impressed with how light both boots were compared to my Sportiva Baturas and Baruntse I am currently climbing in.

I will be posting a review shortly of nine different belay jackets at http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/ . This is the intro: "Like much of the content on the Internet this review is written by an amateur. I am not a paid writer nor was I given these nine jackets for free as promotional material with the manufacturers seeking free advertizing. Only two of the jackets were loaned to me for this review, the Mammut and the MEC and like the rest they were returned after a detailed comparison was made and the pictures taken. Many thanks go to Marmot in Bellevue WA and Mountain Equipment Coop in Vancouver BC for supporting my project. The other seven jackets were paid for on my credit card. Most were returned, one I already owned, one I kept and one I am still thinking about. I'll tell you which jackets swayed me and why inside the review. Part Two will discuss a totally new collection of jackets more appropriate imo and more typically used for the Canadian Rockies/ North Cascade climbing enviroment. I personally picked these jackets out of the dozens available. I had a winter alpine climbing project in mind that I was going to spend at least one night on the climb and two full days of technical climbing plus a long decent in the dark again as the best case secenario and if everything goes perfectly. From past experience and nights out up high in the Canadian Rockies I went looking for the best jacket available for my own needs. So before you read further, a caveat. I am very specific on my likes and dislikes in gear. I have been climbing in the Canadian Rockies since the early '70s and this article is the result of my personal search for a new, extremely cold (-20C and below) weather "climbing/belay/bivy jacket" for my own needs. My likes my not be your likes. You may totally disagree with my conclusions and choices. My needs may not be your needs. What will work for me may not work for you. Use the info as you see "fit" ."

The Scarpas have an enviable reputation for durability on big alpine mixed routes. Sportiva's reputation for durability? Not so good. I went through 3 pairs of Spantiks in three trips breaking eyelets on a boot that has so few.

Interesting to count the parts in a typical wire gate and the number of parts in the new Petzl, single wire, "ANGEL". 6 (more or less?) verses 2. In an engineering sense I don't think that is any great achievement. Anyone notice the problem clipping back into the hangers on the display wall. I found the durability claim pretty far fetched as my solid gate biners go back decades as do some of my wire gates now. The wire gates of any vintage seem to have the strongest gate action. But suspect some of that is the fact they had the strongest gate action to start with as well. Anyway from my view durability doesn't seem to be an issue on the much simplier design of the typical, 2 part, wire gate biner. Or did I miss something recently? I like Petzl's slick nose profile and the gate lock as well but seems like a lot of trade offs from a manufacturing/price point standpoint. Just don't see the question these were suppose to answer. Most chilling to me was the suggested retail price which was on the + side of $10.

Pictures of a current Cobra shaft weigh is 154 grams. Or 158 g = 5.57328 oz! Bottom end top end