Dane

Nice trip guys! I had complete distal detaches on both right and left, and surgery on both in the last couple of years. PM me if you have any questions. The Surgeon is really, really important. Neil Roberts locally is the guy you want. Hopefully you have already doen this. But, sooner the better, on the surgery if they haven't told you that yet.

I was only refering to the TLT 5 shells. As an example the Dynafit DyNA shells break on the half size. So in that boot a 26.5 and a 27 are the same shells. No company is immune. Best imo to take a close look at and then pay attention to the Dynafit sizing chart and the distinct differences in sizing there. http://media.dynafit.com/PDF/Conversion_Chart_Boots.pdf You realise of course it is unlikely that your bindings will fit both a Zuess and a properly fit TLT? But You might get lucky! For the other manufactures (which are all some what different in sizing) you are on your own for good fit reference data. Sole length, actual foot size and the the inner boot volume size stamped on the inner boot has little to do with actual fit. Nice starting reference but not much else if you are making a switch from one boot to the next..even with in the same brand. As an example I wear different over all boot sole length and boot size in the Dynafit DyNA 309mm/29.5, the Zero 316mm/28 and the TLT 317/29 and a different size yet in the BD Prime.

Like almost any modern ski boot, you buy the correct size and then have them professionally fit. As I said the TLT 5 shells are exactly the same size between the Mtn and the P. If you are a full size as a 27/28/29 the liner will be really tight as the shells only come in full sizes. The foam liners on the P is pre molded for length (not fit) to allow the bigger 1/2 sizes. But the shell of say a 28 and a 28.5 are the same shell.

MY opinion, no, the Nilas is not an advance in lwt gear. Nice jacket none the less. Pricey at $550 in the newest dry down version by comparison. The Mont-Bell Mirage? That is an advancement imo and "only" $350. More here on the numbers: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/02/how-i-measure-insulated-down-jackets.html

Climbing with a Lynx on a TLT are you? Lynx is a nice crampon but not my favorite on ski boots.

That is not correct. All the TLT 5s models use the same sizing and molds on the shells. Only the material in the upper cuff is different. Sizing is not. Not even close to the EVO shell in size or how narrow it is. EVO is a LOT more narrow and a shorter boot internally as well. The inner boot on the TLT 5 P and TLT Mountain TF (is much thinner and fully foam) and needs to be heat molded or it will never fit properly. The Mountain TFX ]/b] liner is a more traditional liner, colder in use and easier to fit most people without molding. The TFX is the liner supplied with the TLT 5 Mountiain sold in in North America. Anyone in sales that doesn't know that and make an effort to expalain it correctly isn't doing anyone any favors. At the price points of these boots you would think/hope it general knowledge by now.

As of last week you could easily walk into the moat and then down to the right and just as easily *walk* out to get established on the face proper. Tool wasn't even needed. Typically what is the crux of the climb, seems to be gone at the moment. I've done it a couple of times in the last few weeks and that is how I found it. 'shrund is down and to my left. Normal entry for me is 1/2 dozen steps higher and to the left than where the picture is taken. Easy as it will ever get I suspect. It is pretty obvious if you look around once you are there. But you can kinda see the shrund below me in this picture and where I entered and walked out as well. Either way the route has been in great conditon with good snice in the corner and higher. Lots of opportunity to place ice gear if required. Conditions on the 1st pitch recently. My apologies for going off topic, but since I was asked: "Yes, it is true, I am risking life and limb betting on not having another BD stainless failure while soloing. I check them for cracks constantly and I've pulled the bot plates so I can do that easier." I am now back climbing on Grivel G20s or G22s with my TLTs. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/02/grivel-crampons-respect-is-due.html

Make sure you have the right shell size. My Zero 4s are a full shell size smaller than my TlT 5s. I bought what fit and then found out I was just lucky and hit the right shell size (BSL). I am a 28 in the Zero 4 Carbon and a 29 in the TlT. I climb and ski in my TLT5s and they work fine. This is the shell chart..worth looking at in detail. Then go by your gut not the number on your boot. Your feet will be happier. http://media.dynafit.com/PDF/Conversion_Chart_Boots.pdf

Naw, no such thing Keen. Except, except for may be that one time in Kenya, where I was wrestling Ubangi warriors, and did a few one arm pull ups with three guys hanging off my swami...likely the only WI8* in exsistance. WI7 is casual with only one extra guy hanging on.

It is a great book for what you are asking. I am working on a written review at the moment. But certainly worth the purchase price imo. http://www.mountaineersbooks.org/Snow-Travel-P995.aspx

Do these Cascade, Professors, Louise and Weeping Wall (Last) if you have time.

Would seem easier said than done...any takers onn the email option? If so send me a PM.

Seems we are clueless on posting video. Anyone one with the knowledge and ability willing to post the video here if I email to you? thanks!

Come on Grant you know me better than that. I didn't think you were out of line or I would have said so. I think the discussion is good, interesting as well. And as I said, I had the same discussion with Craig before I published his TR. Likely the hardest thing I have climbed is HFA in Hyalite. Not because it was "hard" like CC (it isn't) but because there wasn't a lot of ice on the first bit when I was there. But at least when I was on it, the bottom was ice climbing. Fat maybe by comparison. This while clipping bolts on that lower bit. Once on the solid ice higher up the climbing was casual by comparison. So I was judging only by Jess and Scott's pictures of Chucky. Arm chair QB for sure. And knowing just how bad the ice conditions down here can be in comparison to Canada. Our shite has a nasty habit of falling down! The real reason I was a bit awe struck about this climb (which doesn't happen often) was a short video Craig sent me. May be he can post it here. I can't figure out how to do it. I think it is worth watching for a better perspective of this climb. I do agree that 5+ is not 6 ice. But what I might think is 6 you might call 5+. -/+ seems a petty arguement. Ice can and does change literally over night in Canada. Here what was up in the morning may be gone by the late afternoon same day. Easily. Most importantly IMO anyway, pro never adds anything to the grade, just the game. Trad takes a lot more effort mentally and physically than clipping a bolt and adds to the climb. But not the grade generally. Bit of fudge factor there though on the effort required to place the gear and how it effects the rest of the climb. I'll offer this..on trad lines a strong head and run out might actually be easier physically and technically (moving around on shitty stances to palce gear) than a weaker head placing more pro in similar circumstances. At least in my circles not that many guys climbing anywhere near this hard. Some strong guys out there. But being physically strong and having the head to run out .11+ trad lines with bad pro (whitness Jess ripping the pin attempting a 2nd) makes the climbers with both head and heart) few and very far between. Even fewer in crampons. I never have and am never likely to. So this is really just all speculation on my part as to how hard all this is. Craig can you whip up that video of Jess on rappel?

"the FA of Sea of Vapours WI7+ (which sounds more like WI6+R/X to me)" Had this conversation recently. Anyone ever repeated SoV in similar thin conditions? Steck maybe..but the climb has soem fixed gear nwo as well. This stuff is so condition dependant. Ratings should be a warning of what you are getting into not chest beating. I'd take this one as a warning YMMV, 'cuz I aint gonna get on it! A lot, as in a lot more ice, between Curtian Call or Nemisis in hard, thin conditons compared to this thing from the pictures of Chucky shared and having been on the others (two of the three).

"giving some props to two great guys" Three. Scott Coldiron was there and climbed it as well.

Dude, I've climbed it, kinda proves it aint M7. I didn't rate it, just quoting the Internet guide book M6+/M7? Now we are cutting some short hairs aren't we John? I thought you might be at Banks lake this morning. Mile marker 11.1? Instead of giving me shit on the Internet.

Had the same question myself of Craig on the WI7 before I published. As well as the M8, Since we are talking 5.11+/5.12 in difficulty here. Line was done free on the second ascent. Aided some the first ascent, when the fixed pro was originally placed. I haven't seen this rig in person. and I am a big believer that it is hard to justify anything harder the WI4 in most places. Vertical is vertical after all. The typical Canadian arguement back to the early '80s by the guys doing the hardest ice in the world at the time. But if you look at Nemisis (WI5/6?) and then the typically harder Curtain Call (WI6) as standards to the grade this looks a wee bit harder Add the fact that "Chucky" is in the WA desert and the temps and ice quality are never shall we say.."perfect"? The first pitch looks like a longer and much nastier version of Hyalites' Home Field Advantage M7 WI5. From discussions no one more excited about seeing a second free ascent than the guys who put this one up. I had suggested sand bagging the technical rating just to avoid this kind of discussion. After more converstaion they decided M8 WI7 was a sand bag! None of these guys are posers. The X grade is real even with the "fixed" pro. You can figure out the rest I'd wait for the 2nd free ascent party to voice their own opinion before questioning the grade. Short drive from Vancouver

Good picture. In the grand scheme of things that aint even a big one for that basin. That size of avi happens a half dozen times in a normal winter and can almost/ or fill in that hole where the lake is next to your people in the picture. And that is just one of the MAJOR slide paths that end up at the lake. Just sayin Bad place to be in the wrong conditions.

A fun one to write up. Congrads guys! More here: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2013/02/chuck-norris-and-mortal-m8rx-wi7-90m.html

Did mine, still does and is the one book I recommend to anyone wanting to get into or get better at alpinism. It is *THE* the fast track on the learning curve. That said even though I was climbing hard in the alpine before Twight even picked up an ice axe. My guess is everyone on this thread and a majority of the members here on cc.com own a copy.

Agreed Monty..Gadd certainly should have been listed there as well. Will is hard not to like in person or his writing. Thanks for pointing that out, my mistake. Historically I think it is pretty tough to look at climbers you have known personally and make a good assessment of their contributions. "Alex MacItyre interview in High. Reading the exploits of kurtyka. True these guys aren't NA but they did change climbing. Had that group never existed climbing would be different. Had Twight never existed climbing would be essentially the same." Certainly you got the first half of that right. I would disagree on the 2nd.

"Those that have most influenced alpine/ice climbing in the last 50 years for us in North America?" Just my take on the last 50 years of "influence". Influence not their climbing resumes. Who in the community made a difference to me...and by my own experience and assumptions the bigger community at large. I've known many of the players in NA alpinism in the last 40 years personally. Of those few have directly influenced several generations to any extent...in my opinion of course. Yours may be different for any number of reasons and just as valid to you. Any form of cyber media? Different context. But I might agree with that idea. CC.com? Once you filter through all the bs here (as any forum is prone to) it can be a good resource. If one wants to bother.

Matt my list is the guys who have most influenced alpine and ice climbing in NA not the guys that were the best ice or alpine climbers in the last 40 years. Sure the four I have listed climbed. But much more importantly to the sport IMO they wrote about it. They taught by writing. House no doubt climbs really hard. He has certainly climbed harder or as hard as anyone listed. But as a public figure or a writer he has a very small profile IMO compared to the rest at the moment. I really liked House's first book. Bought early copies for myself and friends. Certainly easier for me to read than most of Mark's stuff. And in conversation I know House has some big plans for upcoming writng projects. I am excited about them! I would expect Steve House to walk into that arena shortly and add a couple of big steps to our knowledlge base. But he has yet to do it. I have no doubt he has the ability and drive to get it done. My bet is we have a lot to look forward to when it happens.

Bullied? Truth is I got a fair dose of it. And I over react when I see it now becasue of that experience. Sorry Mike Those that have most influenced alpine/ice climbing in the last 50 years for us in North America? Long list but four IMO stand head and shoulders above the rest. The reason...but not the only reason....is they made the effort to write. Chouinard Jeff Lowe John Bouchard Twight