Dane

"Yep, spend money on boots" Agreed, although skis have made some huge changes in design that make everything easier. A lot easier. I might suggest demo'ing some true rockered skis if you get a chance. And think short in comparison to what you have skied on previous if it has been awhile! My standards were 203 on the short side and 210 on the long..207s the norm. Now a 188 is considerd long and 160's short for an adult! Both ends of that spectrum are a hoot to ski. Bindings? Lots of choices but only just one "real" binding these days, Dynafit. Or "tech" bindings as the are being refered to now with other brands available, La Sportiva and Plum are excellent tech binding options as well. More on bindings here: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/07/tech-bindings-aka-dynafit-bindings.html And a bit about one rockered ski there on another thread...but there are lots of ski like them. Just not a lot of light weight ones you'll want to push up hill. Take a look at early rise tips as well. Similar but not the same. Comparison numbers on weight for the others skis mentioned in the Hi5 revierw are worth a look I think. Dependng on what you want to do fat ski make a big differenece as well. With a waist over 90mm ski are beginning to get fat. Fat ski really start at 105mm imo. They look like freakin water skis....and are simply hero skis in bad/soft snow conditions. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/06/la-sportiva-hi5-skis.html With the newest skis...skinny or fat you can ski a much shorter board. Big advantage there as well for BC and if you are just coming back after a few seasons off. You might want to prepare yourself for some sticker shock though Took me a couple of seasons and some wasted time on dated gear just to get over that! Good skiers can turn any boot and ski combo. But always fun to make it easier by having the best tool for the job.

More here..but it does look sweet! http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/08/new-petzl-lynx-crampon.html

"For those that do remember the old Karrimore Joe Brown pack or a Chouinard Fish pack, the Warthog is better done than either and in modern materials but very similar for what they were designed for. It is a simple sac. And for those that actually know what it is to be used for (single push alpinism).... Crampons can go under the lid, with the rope strap holding them in place with the pack body offering some protection from sharp points. There are two traditional ice axe holders on the pack..both with reinforced dbl layering sewn through attachments. Easy enough to securely lash on a tool a little less traditional. A small quick link in place of the mini biners would be even cleaner but I was going with a quick "green" solution. A little imagination here will go far if you are using the newest technical tools. Should be little worry on that one." Pictures and more detail here: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/07/blue-ice-new-warthog-alpine-pack.html

4.5 mile hike and 4,660 feet of elevation gain.

Good luck on the sale as the price is good. But "used them very lightly for two seasons". Geesus, hate to see anything you have actually "used". Obviously you needed that pin badly

More...

Ha, ha, so ya just wanta look hu, Batman? Here ya go! The super solid 1st belay ledge on C/H And the first 20 feet or so of Expanding Horizons.

Hey Joe, congrads to you and Jesse for getting up the offwidth and a great name for it! Likely the last really obvious prize on Chimney. BITD after "air roof" we tried to top rope it but no one got past your first aid section and actually into the off width above. Scary place for a TR! One effort with Kim was more than enough for me. I think Kim was the only one around with the taste for that kind of nonsense From past experience pins won't last in that environment past the first season. If they are required for a free ascent. Good year for it. Hopefully the picture shows the majority of your effort? Very cool it has now been done...NICE effort! Last time I was on that side of the rock it scared the sheet out of me. Mighty fine piece of stone though. Again..well done!

As an example of what is available for clothing I climbed at 3800K meters on a regular basis in the Alps for two months this winter (Feb and March). Only one day did I use any down. (a lwt pull over) And the only pile I used was a R1 hoody. Didn't use any Capilene. And used an actual shell garment even less than the R1. More than once I did get chilled at closer to 4K meters but the biggest issue I had on our climbs, was over heating and keeping dry in the consisttant -20C or lower temps we had.

"Not", you haven't missed the mark by much. "if Ueli won a billion-dollar lottery, what kind of equipment might he build for his speed climbing" In fact Ueli has won "the lottery". He can and does have stuff made to his design/spec on a regular basis, "full custom" and by his sponsors, from what I can see. Boots are a good example. Photo shoots get production Scarpa boots. His own climbing often Scarpa prototypes, "seen only on Ueli's feet" as a partner of his told me. "How about foam boots designed to last 2 or 3 climbs, and using titanium teeth in a fruit boot configuration?" He's BTDT pretty much but without the titanium ;-) His boots used on the "Secret" are a good example. Unlike hoosers like me I suspect Ueli doesn't really care all that much about the gear but more about the climbs and where he is at physically. Gear has seldom definded the limit of what is possible. The climber has. And we all build on those and the gear that came before us. For the alpine climbs Steck has done and the super alpine climbs he is now doing, there are better answers available than down insulation of any sort. The problem is keeping the insulation dry and transporting the body's moisture through the insulation. One reason the only suits available these days are down suits used in really cold (Everest) temps. But generally not other 8Km peaks. http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/search?q=steck While some of the stuff you have mentioned seems a little out there it really isn't compared to what is currently cutting edge for gear these days. Ueli isn't lacking on that topic, and I have to wonder on the Lamo as well

Fair needle But I think that arguement is better made via Winter. Conditons change rapidly as Spring arrives in the mtns. "22 December and 19 March" seems more definative. June climbs on Rainier? Not so much. Either way others have been there first and more than once. "The Western definition based on solstice to equinox is more frequently used where a temperature lag of up to half a season is common.[5] In North America, summer is often the period from the summer solstice (usually June 20 or 21 in the Northern Hemisphere) to the autumn equinox. Unofficially, the U.S. summer season is commonly regarded as beginning on Memorial Day weekend in May and ending on Labor Day weekend in September." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Summer Some how the statement seems a little excessive .

Oh, for crimney sake, I am certain, what a freakin wanker. Need a short history lesson or a definition of summer do you? Well documented Ist ascents on Willis wall? Charlie Bell June 11/12 1961 Ed Cooper and Mike Swayne June 26 1962. Dave Mahre, Jim Wickwire Fred Dunham and Don Anderson, East Rib, 21-hour, June 8 1963 Caldwell and Dix June 15/16 '67 Schaller and Nelson in June 15/16 of 71 Climbs that I know of personally in late June 75 and late June 77. "where's a person looking for untrammeled adventure close to home (i.e. the Cascades) to turn?" Obviously not Willis Wall. It was well traveled 40 years ago! Most climbs on the north side of Rainier weren't documented via the Park Service between the '60s and the late 80s. Simply because it was and continues to be a pain in the ass to register on that side. It is insulting to climbers (me included) that were there long before you. I agree with John.."why?" John has earned that opinion on the N side btw. Know Wayne a bit. So know why and respect that. But there are better routes on Rainier's north side. Passive agressive? That is hugely funny. The agression was intentional...but nothing passive about it or much patience for totally inane bs.

Hey "Not", just for the record, they weren't stupid questions. Just as your comments earlier on the boots weren't. LWT down gear as you mention is a viable alternative to what we currently use. But the down clothing that could be made and used for such climbs hasn't been made. Doesn't mean it could not be made. In fact Steck used some prototype synthetic insulation stuff from Mtn Hardware for the speed ascent of the Grand Jorasses the next year in colder condtions. Not down but virtually what you have suggested here. And I suspect he had a reason for doing so. Obviously a pack mentality here and some stupid answers though.

"I think we may have the one and only summer ascent of Willis Wall, ironically." Dude, wtf have you been smoking? 'cuz obvioulsy you need to get out more. Best route on WW isn't. Thermo is a better line. As far as lines go...between the ridges and walls on the north side I think there are more fun and more beautiful climbs. But WW does have some appeal if for no other reaon than conversations like these to gloat on But I wouldn't go as far as "only summer climb". Silly but more importantly a grossly inaccurate comment. Certainly no challenge in the climbing. Decent level of snow pack or decent snow conditions and some cold temps is all that is required. Being well acclim. between 10 and 14 will help obviously. Conditions can be good in Spring and in Fall. Having been there both seasons I prefer the conditions/approaches on the N side in the fall. I would expect the conditions be spectacular this year. YMMV

Steck's original speed ascent was done without the level of sponsorship he enjoys now. And without a film maker at hand. The photos and video came after the speed record. No film on the actual speed record climb. But much of your answers are directly related to the sponsors he did have and wanted to show case. These days it isn't always about the best gear available but simply the best gear you can get for free. 1. Why did he use a pack made out of what appears to be thick nylon What he used is lighter than you might expect and not an issue to Steck's skill. But no question there are lighter packs. 2. Why did he use off-the-shelf clothes, instead of a custom-tailored full-body suit filled with Eider down, assuming he could get one that wasn't too warm? (I believe Messner used one of these on his Everest solo.) Down would be inappropriate for a climb like this in the time frame Steck did it, even in winter. Sponsors again. But the issue is to stay dry. Not to stay warm..that part was easy going that quickly. Weight of his clothes is also much less than you might expect. 3. If my old brain remembers correctly, Messner also used custom-made titanium ice tools. Gear has changed so much since Messner was really active. Any of us now have the option of climbing in better gear than Messner ever had available. Steck's steel picked tools were likely lighter than the Titanium ones Messner used. Besides the fact that the Eiger is a bit different technically than Everest. Different tools required. Fun comparison for gear is Habler and Messner's '74 10hr record speed ascent of the Eiger and Steck's. Personal gear weight is likely 1/2 or less for Steck while being warmer, drier and easier to climb in all the while with more security. Things have changed drastically in 35 years. Steck was how ever using one-off, custom boots on the recorded speed ascent Steck has soloed the Eiger many times....a few still pictures of Steck climbing on the Eiger with his original kit during reinactments of the speed ascent. But lots of video of him soloing on later climbs...where his sponsors gear is show cased. Including the Real Rock tour.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giXD0BJLSWI&feature=related

This thread popped up on the blog stats a minute or so ago. Thought I'd give a shout out for the SAG Khushi hoodie. No question my favorite hoody currently but it is extremely lwt weight and not intended to replace the MEC version or the R1. And again at $90, may be a good value for Merino wool but no give away either. More on a few hoodies here: http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/05/base-layer-hoodies.html

I wondered...if it was, I have to wonder just how he inspected and measured the rope? Just found it weird he had coiled it all up again and put it back in a box (your box?). Love the fact they booted the guy from MP and he admits to the problem he had there in his very first thread/posts here on cc.com. Thanks for this, but remember that any buyer can retract from a sale at any time before payment! It's happened to me a lot of time that potential buyer did not take my gear and I never posted shit like that about the reputation of a member on a forum!

I know none of this is my business. But easy to get caught up when I have a Pay Pal dick head opening disputes for "non delivery" on ski shipped to Australia knowing that I shipped them just 24 hrs previous. I've been playing with climbing ropes a while and my impression is the dead beat just chopped up your prefectly good rope. Nothing to shown in the video convinces me otherwise. What a waste. Hey Alex, is that your original coil job or a new one done by the buyer.

If you find yourself in a hole, the first thing to do is stop digging. -- Will Rogers Why should I obtain by force that which I can obtain by cheating? ~ Doc Holiday There are three kinds of men: The ones that learn by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence. Conflict follows wrongdoing as surely as flies follow the herd. ~ Doc Holiday and finally.......may be the best Don't interfere with something that ain't bothering' you none. ~ Judge Roy Bean

Damn it.....$30 tag line sounded good. Everyone needs a pos tag line hanging about. I'd still be pissed the dude stole a rope. Gandalf? I want to be Judge Roy Bean "Who did the killing? Judge Roy Bean: I did. They were bad men, and the whores weren't ladies."

Always good to get both sides of the disagreement :-) Dealing with a POS Pay Pal buyer in Australia at the moment myself. So Pay Pal is no guarantee you won't be dealing with some asshole here or in in another country. Transactions work because there is some mutual trust between seller and buyer. Have to say this is the sellers fault (mine as well) for trusting the buyer. It is the way I always start a transaction. Without a prior trustworthy relationship why would anyone ever send something to anyone before they pay for it, thinking they might actually do the right thing? I just love the attitude of Mirk. He got the rope at no cost. Found it doesn't fit his needs. Fair enough. But then refuses to pay for it (fair enough again). But refuses to return it at his cost? Not returning the rope (at the buyer's cost) in the same condition it was recieved and making every effort to do so quickly is dishonest and imo simply stealing..it is theft. Which makes Mirk a thief imo. WTF are you thinking Mirk? You are clearly ripping Alex off here. The same dude who was trusting enough to help you out. All this over $30 in shipping??!!...it is beyond me what people will do for a few bucks. The seller may have unintentionally communicated the condition of the rope. But pretty obvious he thought he was selling what the buyer wanted, why else would he send the rope out of the country without payment and additionally pay the shipping costs and custom's hassles to Canada? I don't know Mirk or Alex. Never had a transaction with either. But obvious to me Mirk is a dishonorable Pieceofshit. Wake up dumb ass. I've had several potential buyers here on CC.com ask to have something shipped prior to payment. Some I have even met in person. The request be it for $5 or $5000 will never happen. They are tire kickers at best or more likely simply snake oil salesmen trying to get their hands in your pants. Just as Mirk did here. I have how ever sent gear before I have recieved payment many times. But NEVER to anyone that has ever actually asked me to. Oh, btw...anyone buying a used rope to actually use for anything but a haul line described as, "This is a very well used rope. It's been fallen on, TR'd on etc. But, like I said, it's not really that frayed or dirty. I can't say I would recommend it as your primary rope. I'll accept really any reasonable offer." is a bit off anyway....the end result should have been expected

"we are looking seriously for a puppy with zero health issues and would love if anyone has first hand (or second) recommendations on a quality (local if possible) breeder." After our last Rottie died of cancer @ just barely 3 I went looking for another. We have had Rotties in the family for 30+ years and I love them dearly. Much as I love the breed I will be hard pressed to ever own another because of the numbers I was quoted and the research I have done. I don't think the health of the breed is getting any better in the US. And now understand why they bring in dogs from Europe so regularly. I have to wonder now if the breeding population reached a critical point after WWII. I quizzed several breeders in the NW and West Coast. When pressed all admitted to a full 25% of their dogs died of cancer. If they admitted to that # freely I suspect the number is actually higher. Loosing a 3 year old was devastating to us. We've had several breds over the years, and generally two full size dogs at once. One is the rare situation and not intentional. The Rots and Dobie's came from reputable breeders generally. All died of Cancer. The rest (all breeds) came from shelters. And some of them died of cancer as well,but generally at an older age and a full life. We aren't the only ones this has happened to with Rottie pups. The breed I am most impressed with for health issues is the Labradoodle...same with a goldendoodle although they are a little frufru for my taste And neither shed which is a plus. Although ours is bothered by the heat so we keep him pig shaved. Problem solved. We had looked at several litters from back yard breeders but actually adopted a puppy abandoned at the Factoria shelter by chance. Awesome dog from literally day one, who is now at 4. Bellevue Humane Society has most of their dogs on line but a few aren't. "You get the dog you need, not the one you want", good call. And good luck! Marley, 85# Labor mutt, that would live in the water given the chance. He has an amazingly gentle disposition for a big male.

Sorry to be a pisser. I'll likely take it but would like to see a link or a photo first.

Welcome to the dark side. You got the sheetz. TLTs boots are amazing. I actually take my skis off when crossing creeks unless there is snow to ski across...but that is just me ;-) Gaiters? Most use their pants or tights with the TLTs. No gaiters. I use either running or bike tights (best) or a pair of Arcteryx Gamma LT pants. Deep post holing in just the boots though can be a problem unless you cut a buckle slot in the pants as Dynafit does in their touring pants. The idea is no gaiter is so you can easily/quickly take advantage of the boot design by flipping from walking to ski mode and back to walking again. http://www.dynafit.com/product/pants/gallium-flex-dst-m-pnt Look here for more ideas: http://slcsherpa.blogspot.com/ http://www.getstrongergolonger.com/ http://slc-samurai.blogspot.com/ and a search here on anything about BC skiing will be worthwhile as well http://www.wildsnow.com/