Billygoat

Hey check these two we did last week: They were within two feet of the wall of this house. Tight... http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=3536 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=3534 http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=3533

Dancin'! Girls like dancin'... another slide show would be fun! Movie night? we could watch El Capitan and Cliffhanger over at Kurt's and then discuss the relative merits of each over beer, pizza and Boomers!

Sounds like the next Harry Potter book. I wonder if Msbehavin saved all your juicy PMs hoarck?! CBS, seems like you have a bone to prick with him

Yates makes a far superior Alpine harness. HAHA big fat

KILTS ARE TUFF!

HAHAHA

meet any interesting characters like MisterE yet? Goat

Just bringin' everyone up to speed. Give my best to the San Juans...

Men in kilts (re: skirts) are in!

Try Bug

"It's my v12 project and it starts with this heinous sloper and a tenuous crimp....oh wait a minute, are the cameras rolling?!"

CBS, I am thinking of body weight at a belay station. Which is how I read the intention of the poster of this thread. I would not use my daisy in such a way to statically load it and rip an anchor. If I wanted to rip an anchor I would do it with my 10.5 mm, Sheesh! Dru, my daisys, that I bought from and are made by Mountain Tools are rated 4.8kn at the pockets and 22kn end to end. They weigh 78 g for a 44" one and cost $19.50 US. Give me 10 carpenters and I will show you ten ways to frame a wall...

Thanks all! And remember to play nice...

If your anchors are that pathetic, WTF are you belaying your second on?!?!?!?!?

Chriss, could you please diagram or describe how the Gibbs was/is used as a lead solo device. Thanks

I think that one would use the Gibbs as a top rope soloing device. The purpose of this thread was exploring older self belaying on LEAD techniques. Basically, how would you do it w/o a Soloist or Silent partner device.

"Same jam as Simon.." Nice pun! BTW what is an EDK?

Fahk me! Definitely didn't intend that. More like what legs said

bottom one looks like devil's thumb, the one above liberty bell/news/etc.

Ok miss I live at 9,000 feet, How about "Bight" (as in me)

Definitely not! Just playing with words and trying to keep things "lite". If you could tell me what a "Groid" is, I would be much obliged. Goat

sounds fine to me. you could also use a hank of the rope you are tied into with a clove hitch and a biner, unless you are seeking something outside the system.

HAHAHAHAHA I know the sensation. I would just like to say that I felt the review was well written, interesting, and judgemental, yet it had value for me. He articulated what others think when they hear that I like to go climbing and so does my son. I can see it in their eyes

Hey Griz, I know you mean well and hopefully we'll hook up one of these times I am in Colorado, but when I lived in Colorado, I used to discount crevasses as minor obstacles. When I moved out here to the PNW and really started to experience them, well, I am thoroughly impressed and have a healthy fear of them, to the core of my being. DID you see the one he fell into and how the hole was in the very MIDDLE of a roof! Simon would not have be able to get anywhere near the edge w/o a rope and an anchor. As far as rescue, I don't think that the Peruvian government, in the 1980's, was set up for the "Rescues" we all take for granted now that everyone is paying climbing fees. They were on their own. Shredding the tent and lowering it in one long strip to hoist up Joe's end of the rope is thinking outside the box tho...Maybe I will go climbing with you after all. BTW thanks for the Garden of the Gods Beta, we had a blast!