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Bill_Simpkins

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Everything posted by Bill_Simpkins

  1. Those are made from now decommisioned Russion Nuclear subs. The titanium is from the reactor. you want to eat from those? go ahead.
  2. Those things are sweet Man! As far a tricams go, I love em. I ise the pink the most, but I've used everthing up to green before. Great for horizontal cracks and sandstone pockets at Larrabee.
  3. I would go with half ropes. The amount of weight you save using say, two 8.1-8.5 mm ropes would be comperable to using a 9.8 mm and 6 mm. Maybe not as much, but close, and you would have more security in both climbing and rapping. I wouldn't even mess with the 6mm, to skinny and it doesn't stretch. I wouldn't have made a few rappells without the stretch.
  4. I use a 8.3 mm, 30m Edelweiss.
  5. If there are Pad People a the crag, just climb up a pitch and forget about'em. Yell "ROCK" every once in while and watch them run.
  6. American Alpine Institute The guides at Basecamp in Bellingham are good too. I think they have a class/trip. Call and ask.
  7. I'll sometimes do it depending on time, route and partner (experience, weight).
  8. Simul-Rappelling Who does it? Discuss........
  9. The fibers arn't bleached. It just looks like transpareant grape juice. You can still the color underneath. Thanks though. I should have asked. Does anyone know of a stain remover that is safe on Gortex?
  10. New: $18 each From me: $20 for both. Used twice in practice. Like new, treated well. PM me.
  11. I have a bright yellow/orange Marmot Lightspeed Gortex Jacket. I have a car battery that spilled acid in places on the jacket . I already neutralized it with baking soda, and the stains won't come off. Any suggestion? Thanks.
  12. -mule knot
  13. Everyone climbing should know (if not to save themselves, someone else): -munter hitch -mule knot -how to prussik with slings -how to escape belay -firemans belay -raising systems (z-pulley etc...) -I probably left out a few things I've had to use many of these. Some several times. The munter hitch being the most.
  14. -Review new climbing books, guide books, instruction books -Have threads to talk about Guide book routes, updates, reccommendations and stuff to add to route info. (could be useful for authors too) Just an idea.
  15. Yes fern. you must be careful with over the neck. Never wrap it around, just lay it around the back and make sure you have plenty of slack between the coil and belay device. If you have to lower someone, like more than a couple feet, pick it off your neck and set it somewhere else. Works good in cramped quarters. Good point Fern. Yeah, it isn't the best choice by any means. But it has come in handy for me a few times, and may for someone else in a pinch. I'll try to edit the original post.
  16. They are good for sandstone offwidths. So I've heard....
  17. -Over my tie in point -over/through a piece of webbing/runner -let it hang if smooth wall or slab -pile on ledge -over a horn -over a branch --over my neck (not reccomended) yeah...Falcon Series "how to rock climb" and "advanced rock climbing" are great books. Get them.
  18. Go for a quick run to get the blood flowing. Try taping them too.
  19. Yeah, it's really nice in the Spring. Watch out for poking through the snow in the talus field when the snow starts. Could be painful.
  20. Last year is was no sweat. The log crossing was nice, the trail leads right to it.
  21. I try to keep the climbing talk away from my friends. If they ask questions I will answer them. Usually if they just ask one or two questions they just want a simple answer, like "climbing in Leavenworth" or " climbed Rainier" or something. But some friends ask more which shows they are interested in learning some details. So I'll do my best to give them answers they can understand. Almost everyone can do something that you can't. Find out what your friends can do, and ask them about that. I've taken a few friends top-roping or hiking, they loved it. But don't expect them to take it any further. Just have fun.
  22. I use both. The Curved Hexes are nice for parallel cracks because the "indent" catchs on the lip of the upper surface. The curved also works well when there are bulges and weird stuff in the crack. However, the sizing doesn't run as big as the BD's. Also the really small curved hexes suck! The BD are way better in the smaller sizes. Personally, I carry the largest curved, the largest BD, a few mid-sized curved and small BD's.
  23. I'm thinking about running up Pilchuck tonight. Anyone know of the road conditions??? Thanks
  24. Alex Trabec.
  25. a little bouldering
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