Dustin_B

Sweet, thanks guys, this is just what I was looking for. I'm going to check out a few of these books and get my ass (diet) into shape ASAP. Nutrition is expensive but so is all the gear I buy. I think I can justify spending some money to fix up my body since I spend so much money buying stuff to beat it up with Col.- thanks for the offer to borrow your book, but I think I'll buy it so I can add it to my library.

Does any body know of a good basic nutrition book for training for endurance sports (such as alpine climbing)? Something that talks about the different sugars and carbs and how your body burns/stores them, high protein foods, foods with complex carbs, what types of foods to eat before/after a workout? I'm NOT looking for a summary of a cc.comer's knowledge of the subject (no offense), I actually want an in depth book to read about it in and refer to in the future. I met with a personal trainer last night to talk about my diet and training/exercise program and basically my diet sucks so all my training is going to waste. He said the diet should be about 75% of my training but I been putting it at about 25%. Has any body had any luck with those supplemental protein shakes? (not that kind, sick-o). I need to get my ass in gear as far as my diet goes. More protein, less sugar, less , big bummer, more . Thanks.

I've climbed with many "graduates" from both the Boealps and Mountaineers courses. I haven't found one group to be any more or less safe than the other (aside from the fixed line thing, ha). It really depends on the person not the group, as to their level of safety. I've also climbed with some who haven't taken either course, and found them to be less safe in general. That could just be my perception of a more experienced climber though, taking fewer precautions because they feel comfortable with that. Generally speaking, if I have to tie into a rope with a beginner (for the first time), I'd prefer someone who has graduated from one course or another over someone who learned from an "experienced friend". Just my 2 cents.

This is a really sweet picture that a friend sent me the link to. Just thought I'd share it. It really gives you some perspective. enjoy Earth Lights

Do you know who carries these? Actually our good buddies down at the REI Seattle carried seal skin as of June last year. Bought a pair, didn't use them, then returned them. Don't know if they still carry them, haven't looked lately.

I get those types of emails every so often. Mostly they are spam, but every once in a while they turn out to be legit. At least that is what I keep telling myself when I respond to them...

Actually I meant you could take them back to REI even if you don't have a receipt. But here you go dumb dick

Yeah, I looked into the Ice Sac, even tried it out at PMS. It is just bigger than I need. I already have a ~3500 in^3 pack that weighs about 4 lbs. I want something smaller and lighter. Thanks for the advice though.

You know where to take them now don't you?

just trying to get this into the "current threads" section.

I'm looking for a carry over pack in the 2500 in^3 size range. I think I've narrowed it down to three packs. The Cold Cold World 'Valdez', the Marmot 'Eiger', and the Wild Things 'Roc Sac' (possibly the Black Diamond 'Stone Pack' too). I need to able to rock/ice climb with this pack on so helmet clearance with the top of the pack (when looking up) is important. I like the foam and/or removable stay for this and I believe all the packs I mention have this. Of course weight is a concern too. Does anyone have opinions on any of these packs? Thanks in advance.

MattP, that would be Chris W (belaying) and Toast on Midway.

I don't know about the x-15s but I've heard good things about the BD Shrikes, mainly that they are light and cheap. You can find them for ~$100 here and other tools for cheap here. I know lots of you don't like to buy online and would rather support a small local shop, but climbing is expensive and you gotta save where you can....

Mattp, your suggestions for route reports thread content sound great but also sounds like a lot of work for you. I say if the "angry people" don't like what the moderators are doing, then they can go to summitpost or nwhikers. I hear they have good sites. Its not like your suggestions are unreasonable, in fact they sound kind of obvious....

Never tried the Tecnika Altitudes but I have the Nepal Extremes. They are great boots, but expensive (if you pay retail) and heavy, almost 5-lbs. Very comfortable right out of the box with a very minimal break in period. Very comfortable for short to medium length approaches. Not comfortable for longer trips though (>30 miles round trip). (I wore only the Nepal Extremes when I did Olympus and I won't do that again). My feet have not been cold in them yet but I also haven't been in temps colder than 15 or 20 F in them. Any boot can be warm at those temps with thick socks. They hold up really well over all. I would recommend them.

Smartwool all the way. I always where liners and vary the outer sock depending on conditions, from like hikers to the burly mountaineer sock. This way my feet don't sweat much. I usually put mole skin on my heel to prevent blisters regardless of the socks. I never get blisters with this system and my feet stay dry most of the time. Smartwool

quote: Originally posted by JoshK: ...the best car you can get for driving snowy roads is an audi w/ quattro, bar-none. Audi's AWD system is significantly better technology than anything else out there.... Anybody who argues this hasn't driven one or can't drive in the snow. grand cherokee with quadra-drive never had any problems any where. Yea, bring on the spray, but I've never bottomed out or spun out on snowy/icy roads. Can sleep in the back, carry tons of gear, reliable, drives like a car (not like a truck), ~20mpg highway. Okay spray away.

quote: Originally posted by Dave Schuldt: Check out column by Joel Connely in todays Seattle Post Inteligencer. Page 2 of front section. Here is the link

quote: Originally posted by RobBob: Aggies are not longhorns. That is correct. But the Aggies beating the Sooners helps the Longhorns. So to them.

quote: Originally posted by Fence Sitter: quote: The "maybe" and "little" is what I'm referring too. seriously, would you like this site to be only beta? hwo often would you check in? mabe once a month? you come back for the shit stirrin debates and to hear the pious ramblings of the great chicken f'er TRASK... like i said before...if all you want is beta try summit post or bivouac... there is a reason there are 3,000+ people on this site...its called fun...(oh and avatars )... I didn't say or imply that I wanted this site to be only beta. Spray in spray was my only point. Maybe I'll just start throwing out useless beta in the spray threads to even things out??

Ha, Ha, OU sucks again. Here's one for those Texas Aggies All you Boomer Sooners can kiss my Longhorn

quote: Originally posted by Fence Sitter: quote: ... ...and mabe get a lil beta along the way The "maybe" and "little" is what I'm referring too.

quote: Originally posted by mattp: ...I like to hear from beginners and experts both. ...one can scroll through the garbage to find the substantive posts, it is annoying... I agree with MattP. I know several climbers (with a range of experience) that won't even read, much less post, here because of all the spray in the "important" threads. Most people don't want to have to skim over the spray. IMHO we're losing a vaulable resource, i.e. other climbers. Afterall, isn't that what we want, input/opinions from other climbers? Aren't there enough threads under the spray catagory to keep you fools entertained all day? -Dustin

sweet, thanks Dave.

quote: Originally posted by troubleski: Ok... so they are pretty pricy... but does anyone have any thoughts on the Acr'Teryx Alpha Comp SV? I am looking for a main outter layer for skiing and climbing. What do y'all think? -Troub If I could only own one jacket it would be the Arc'teryx Gamma SV (actually it would probably be a hard shell, but thats beside the point). I've used it for everything (skiing, climbing, "on the town"). It is pricy ($240) and if I had paid that much it would have still been more than worth it. The only drawback I can think of is it doesn't have pit zips, but most of the soft shells I've seen don't. I don't know about the Acr'Teryx Alpha Comp SV, but if it resembles the Gamma SV, then buy it.