Dustin_B

I was one of the instructors at Barney's Rubble on Sunday and many non-Mountaineers climbed there all day. Where were you bouldering Erik? I wonder if I talked to you. What is wrong with the comment about gear not always holding? That may be obvious to a proficienct climber (such as yourself) but might not be obvious to a newbie. (no, I didn't make the comment but I know who did). We left NO tape and no beer cans, sorry. And referring to your complaint earlier about Mountaineers always telling you what you're doing wrong. Well we had some non-Mountaineer climbers there telling the students they where doing stuff wrong!!

Erik, don't get me started on punctuation. If that isn't "the pot calling the kettle black"!? (notice proper spelling of punctuate) I guess there is a lot your "ghetto ass" don't know!!

Good points Erik but I thought the discussion was about the "right" of the Mountaineers to have 50 people in the canyon. That was what several people seemed to be pissed about and I just brought up the fact that cc.com does something very similar. As far as the trash concern. That is definitely something the Mountaineers don't take lightly. I'd like to believe it wasn't our group it certainly could have been. As far as someone telling you you're doing something wrong. Just tell them to fuck off or ignore them. Hopefully things will be different this year as many Mountaineers post to cc.com and are aware of the anti-Mountie feelings. One more thing to point out. The Mountaineers get blamed for a lot of stuff because they are the biggest organization when in reality it is all the clubs that are equally at fault (BOEALPS, Mazamas, etc). Also each branch of the Mountaineers basically acts like a completely seperate organization. Like the Everett branch has no control over the Seattle branch etc. So a couple of people in one of these groups pisses someone off a few times and all of a sudden all of them suck. I'll be the first to admit that big groups suck but not everyone is forunate enough to be a part of such a nice group of cc.comers willing to take a complete beginner out to teach to climb. So they learn in groups. My original question still stands though.

Okay, so can someone please explain to me how 50 cc.comers at Rope-Up climbing in groups of 2 or 4 all over the canyon is different from 50 people climbing in groups of 10 at 5 different areas (not to mention the areas the Mountaineers use are the so-called crappy areas that cc.comers wouldn't go near).

Yeah, and who needs universities and professors when we have libraries and the internet. Why do all those people waste so much money going to college when you could just go out and learn it by yourself? Idiots!!

from here These guys are getting a little sloppy.

Pro Mountain Sports sells them too!!

Maybe we can get someone that works at REI to tell us how superior REI down is to Marmot and FF.

Yeah. It was raining, so I took off my hardshell and went elsewhere to climb. I enjoy my freedom to climb where I please, not where my class is scheduled for the day. Too bad for the students and instructors. They probably would have had more fun in the sun at Vantage. Screw that, you can take that over crowded, desert choss pile of falling rock and share it with the hordes of others on the Sunshine Wall or the Feathers; just make sure you wear you helmet, that place is falling apart. Once or twice a year at Vantage is more than enough for me. No thanks. 8 students practicing placing pro on the ground on and off the lower routes and 6 instructors critiquing them (on the lower shelf of Mountaineers Dome no less) is hardly a horde. But people choose to see what they want to see so whatever.

Seattle Mountaineers intermediate climbing course is having their rock 2 in icicle this weekend. Everett Mountianeers intermediate climbing course is having their rock 2 at Royal Columns May 3-4. If you want to climb a route that the Mountaineers have a rope on and aren't using (or an adjacent route), ask to talk to the area leader. If the area leader is no help ask to talk to the field trip coordinator. I'm sure they'd be accomodating. Also, Boealps basic course will be in Icicle May 3-4, Boealps intermediate course will be at Smith May 3-4, and Squamish May 17-18

That was the intermediate climbing course at Mountaineer's Dome on Saturday. There were 8 students and probably 6 instructors. They were wearing gore-tex, precip, softshells, hardshells, whatever because it was RAINING.

Marmot and Feathered Friends carry these 8mm slings too.

Chris, I just got a new type of extendable wear contacts that are suppose to be 6 times more oxygen permeable than the nearest competitor (may be marketing hype?). Apparently there is only one company who makes them right now. I can't remember who makes them or what they're called, but I'll find out and let you know.

Just for the record, I'm not homophobic and I have many gay friends and co-workers (well not really). I like gay people wait a minute, ignore that. Oh, just forget it. I was just having some fun. I'm sorry if I've offended in homosexuals out there.

Then why the hell are you posting to it fag?

50, 100, 500, 1000? Who has the most? I'm talking about every biner from your belay parabiner to every biner on your quickdraws, rack, whatever! All of them. I'm about done putting together my rack and I was adding them up; I think I have about 70, maybe 75. This is my second year of climbing and I'm wondering how many I'll have 5, 10, 20 years from now.

For all you techie gear heads out there, here is some good reference info on several popular brands and models of biners including weight, strength (both open and closed gate), and gate opening dimension. non-locking biner specs locking biner specs

Do you think Marmot's new "900-fill" down sleeping bags are just marketing hype or truely 900-fill? Personally, I don't buy it but those bags are light! marmot home page

I looked for signs along the trail but didn't see any. The only signs we saw were the ones that say "climber's trail" and the others that identify the different vegetation, etc. We also saw no other footprints on the dirt trail and it looked like no one had been out there recently. Trail was dry.

Another exception: if you go out planning on failing and fail, this is a successful attempt, or successful failure (it is what you planned to do). Also if you go out planning on failing and summit, this too is an attempt because you failed at your goal.

First hand knowledge: Royal Columns is open. We were there yesterday and today. Didn't see a soul either day. Its great having an entire cragging area to yourself. Ok, so it was cool(er), breezy and overcast but it still rocked. That place is tens times better than that Vantage pile of choss. We saw no raptor nests in the vicinity.

No. sounds like a man's man!

AMEN (to Trask's post)

Thanks for the great info everyone. I think I will be doing more of the "casual alpine routes" so I'm going to go with 4 doubles, and 2-4 more singles. I also have a set of regular length quickdraws so I think those could take the place of the 12" runners, but maybe I'll pick up a couple of those anyway to experiment with. After the good points that have been brought up I'm glad I didn't decide to get 6 doubles. It sounds like that would be over kill. Doesn't sound like anyone carries the 36" runners; I guess those are an awkard length because they don't double as well. I have lead a little with a friends rack and I think I like the singles tripled and on my harness or gear sling with a couple doubles over my shoulder. Thanks again, this was quite helpful. Dustin

So how many of what length runners do you carry on your rack? (so I know you are going to say it depends on the length and rating of the pitches so just give me an example). I am putting together a rack and so far I have 6 single runners. I am thinking about getting 6 doubles too, or maybe 4 doubles and 2 more singles. What about carrying a couple of half (12") runners? How many pieces (and therefore runners) would you expect to place while leading a full pitch rated in the mid to upper end of your abilities? Gracias.