Dustin_B

I get those types of emails every so often. Mostly they are spam, but every once in a while they turn out to be legit. At least that is what I keep telling myself when I respond to them...

Actually I meant you could take them back to REI even if you don't have a receipt. But here you go dumb dick

Yeah, I looked into the Ice Sac, even tried it out at PMS. It is just bigger than I need. I already have a ~3500 in^3 pack that weighs about 4 lbs. I want something smaller and lighter. Thanks for the advice though.

You know where to take them now don't you?

just trying to get this into the "current threads" section.

I'm looking for a carry over pack in the 2500 in^3 size range. I think I've narrowed it down to three packs. The Cold Cold World 'Valdez', the Marmot 'Eiger', and the Wild Things 'Roc Sac' (possibly the Black Diamond 'Stone Pack' too). I need to able to rock/ice climb with this pack on so helmet clearance with the top of the pack (when looking up) is important. I like the foam and/or removable stay for this and I believe all the packs I mention have this. Of course weight is a concern too. Does anyone have opinions on any of these packs? Thanks in advance.

MattP, that would be Chris W (belaying) and Toast on Midway.

I don't know about the x-15s but I've heard good things about the BD Shrikes, mainly that they are light and cheap. You can find them for ~$100 here and other tools for cheap here. I know lots of you don't like to buy online and would rather support a small local shop, but climbing is expensive and you gotta save where you can....

Mattp, your suggestions for route reports thread content sound great but also sounds like a lot of work for you. I say if the "angry people" don't like what the moderators are doing, then they can go to summitpost or nwhikers. I hear they have good sites. Its not like your suggestions are unreasonable, in fact they sound kind of obvious....

Never tried the Tecnika Altitudes but I have the Nepal Extremes. They are great boots, but expensive (if you pay retail) and heavy, almost 5-lbs. Very comfortable right out of the box with a very minimal break in period. Very comfortable for short to medium length approaches. Not comfortable for longer trips though (>30 miles round trip). (I wore only the Nepal Extremes when I did Olympus and I won't do that again). My feet have not been cold in them yet but I also haven't been in temps colder than 15 or 20 F in them. Any boot can be warm at those temps with thick socks. They hold up really well over all. I would recommend them.

Smartwool all the way. I always where liners and vary the outer sock depending on conditions, from like hikers to the burly mountaineer sock. This way my feet don't sweat much. I usually put mole skin on my heel to prevent blisters regardless of the socks. I never get blisters with this system and my feet stay dry most of the time. Smartwool

quote: Originally posted by JoshK: ...the best car you can get for driving snowy roads is an audi w/ quattro, bar-none. Audi's AWD system is significantly better technology than anything else out there.... Anybody who argues this hasn't driven one or can't drive in the snow. grand cherokee with quadra-drive never had any problems any where. Yea, bring on the spray, but I've never bottomed out or spun out on snowy/icy roads. Can sleep in the back, carry tons of gear, reliable, drives like a car (not like a truck), ~20mpg highway. Okay spray away.

quote: Originally posted by Dave Schuldt: Check out column by Joel Connely in todays Seattle Post Inteligencer. Page 2 of front section. Here is the link

quote: Originally posted by RobBob: Aggies are not longhorns. That is correct. But the Aggies beating the Sooners helps the Longhorns. So to them.

quote: Originally posted by Fence Sitter: quote: The "maybe" and "little" is what I'm referring too. seriously, would you like this site to be only beta? hwo often would you check in? mabe once a month? you come back for the shit stirrin debates and to hear the pious ramblings of the great chicken f'er TRASK... like i said before...if all you want is beta try summit post or bivouac... there is a reason there are 3,000+ people on this site...its called fun...(oh and avatars )... I didn't say or imply that I wanted this site to be only beta. Spray in spray was my only point. Maybe I'll just start throwing out useless beta in the spray threads to even things out??

Ha, Ha, OU sucks again. Here's one for those Texas Aggies All you Boomer Sooners can kiss my Longhorn

quote: Originally posted by Fence Sitter: quote: ... ...and mabe get a lil beta along the way The "maybe" and "little" is what I'm referring too.

quote: Originally posted by mattp: ...I like to hear from beginners and experts both. ...one can scroll through the garbage to find the substantive posts, it is annoying... I agree with MattP. I know several climbers (with a range of experience) that won't even read, much less post, here because of all the spray in the "important" threads. Most people don't want to have to skim over the spray. IMHO we're losing a vaulable resource, i.e. other climbers. Afterall, isn't that what we want, input/opinions from other climbers? Aren't there enough threads under the spray catagory to keep you fools entertained all day? -Dustin

sweet, thanks Dave.

quote: Originally posted by troubleski: Ok... so they are pretty pricy... but does anyone have any thoughts on the Acr'Teryx Alpha Comp SV? I am looking for a main outter layer for skiing and climbing. What do y'all think? -Troub If I could only own one jacket it would be the Arc'teryx Gamma SV (actually it would probably be a hard shell, but thats beside the point). I've used it for everything (skiing, climbing, "on the town"). It is pricy ($240) and if I had paid that much it would have still been more than worth it. The only drawback I can think of is it doesn't have pit zips, but most of the soft shells I've seen don't. I don't know about the Acr'Teryx Alpha Comp SV, but if it resembles the Gamma SV, then buy it.

Thanks for all the info. That's what I was hoping to hear. I was down at Marmot this weekend checking them out. They look pretty bomber and fit me well also. I think I am going to get the Valdez. Dustin

quote: ... Listen up you little <50 post little snot....What does the number of posts a person has, have to do with this debate? Just curious, sounds like a slam to those new to cc.com. Are new members not allowed to partake in these debates? --Dustin

quote: Originally posted by forrest_m: actually, I think the friction in the rope setup would decrease the total force, i.e. force on the anchor is (2x weight of climber) – (amount of climber weight absorbed by friction an therefore not held by belayer) – (amount of climber weight and belayer strain absorbed by rope rubbing on rock). I'll give it another go (I just deleted my long ass response so this is shorter): The increased friction is this scenario would not "decrease the total force of the system" (which remains constant), rather is would decrease the total force on the top piece. The resultant (missing, other) force would be felt by the rope on rock friction and rope drag through other pieces (and therefore increased force on those pieces). Afterall, these other things are what is causing some of the friction. Strictly speaking, assuming no other frictional forces exist, the friction between the rope-biner on the top piece can't reduce the force on the top piece, that is physically impossible. Now do I have it?

quote: Originally posted by mattp: quote:Originally posted by Dustin B: Wow, I figured that out on a Friday afternoon Except you may have figured wrong. Consider this: if there were so much friction that the rope wouldn't pull through, it would be just like the climber was hanging from a single strand hung on the anchor. If this is correct, then wouldn't some lesser amount of friction maybe tend to reduce rather than aggravate the doubling factor? So it would seem, now I am truely perplexed. But ponder this: Lets assume this is the case. What is causing this much friction? Probably rope drag caused by the other end of the rope running through the other pieces placed while leading. So these pieces would be taking some of the force then. Okay, my mental capacity is maxed for now. Maybe I'll ponder this issue on Monday with a fresh mind. Now it is time for and

quote: Originally posted by shredmaximus: This brings up interesting points and something that is pretty relevant to all of us given the forum that this discussion is taking place. I did not know Anna before that weekend. We had climbed Giverler's the day before and there was a whole bunch of C.C folks who were switching leads and belayers all over Caslte Rock. I don't think ANY OF US really had that good an idea of what the others limitations were...especially in regards to leading. I was all geared up to lead the first pitch (which I later did by the way) and in a moment of enthusiasm Anna decided that she wanted to lead it. No problem...I wasn't fixated on leading it so I gave her my rack. I assumed she was up to the task...I'm sure at the time she did to. We've all been there. Your feeling good...you've got a day of climbing under your belt, you look up at the climb and say "I can do that" then you get on it and realize you are over your head! Sure as her belayer it was my responsibility to have gotten a better handle of her skills but I didn't...another lesson learned. I was not really in a position to tell Anna that she should probably not climb this because I assumed she could...as did everyone else that day. So in this age of finding random climbing partners on the internet, and C.C.com Rope Ups where you are climbing with lots of new folks, how do you get a handle on your partners limitations when you haven't really climbed with them before and may have only developed the leader/belayer relationship moments before??? I can't believe so many people jumped on the band wagon of blaming Anna's partners for "letting her climb something she wasn't prepared for"!! Come on folks. We all read the warnings on the equipment; it is up to YOU to keep safe while climbing. It doesn't sound like any one encourgaged her to lead something she didn't feel comfortable leading. That could be seen as irresponsible. The only way you could blame this on climbing partners is if they didn't catch the fall, or something along those lines. Anna, didn't blame her climbing partners and I don't think anyone else should in this situation. Dustin