catbirdseat

Let the snow conditions dictate whether or not you build an igloo. You need consolidated snow that makes good blocks if you want to make an igloo. Sometimes you can dig a pit to get down to the sort of snow you would need, but it is more work. I'd go with the snow cave.

It's much safer to use the self-arrest grip. If your axe is uncomfortable to use that way, then get a new axe. You can also put padding over the top to make it more comfortable.

If I said no, would you go do it?

I heard a story on the radio that they are going to move 85 elk from the Acme Valley to the hills above Darrington. Can't find the story in the local newspapers though. So apparently there are already a few elk in the Darrington area, which I never knew. Maybe we'll start seeing elk up the Clear Creek drainage? It's really happening in Acme.

In ice climbing, legs are overrated.

Whoa, nine pages! Didn't notice they put the page selector on the left side.

So what was the resolution? The thread stopped on the 18th.

Probably not a good idea, as they tend to break into segments.

I believe it was first known as The City of Silent Rocks. I guess people figured "silent" and "rock" were redundant.

The route Displacement is aptly named (Interstate Park). Climbers routinely displace rocks from it. Be careful where you set your belay.

Let's play Twenty Questions! Were you having a safety break just before you left behind the valuable item?

Nice We've learned to take what he says with a grain of salt.

I'm going to try to beat Dave Schuldt to the punch. Two words: IMPEACH BUSH!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My guess is that your dog didn't grow up with cats around. Might not be a good idea to get another cat. Our dog is good pals with one of our cats. They sometimes nap together. The other cats barely tolerate the dog and she leaves them alone for the most part.

There was a previous post about this same question, if I recall.

I can't believe no one called you on this statement, especially statement number 2. The figure that I remember for recovery is 30%. Say you are right, and that an equal volume of oil is required to extract a volume of oil. You burn both in the end and both are turned into CO2 and water. That's 2 times the amount of greenhouse gases, not 5 to 10 times. .

Did you almost buy a pair of almost new Cobra ice tools?

My post in no way should be considered an endorsment of the Latona. It was for information purposes only.

Look for people who look approximately like these folks at the Latona. The wild-eyed fellow in the upper right is just Pax, trying to emphasize a point he was trying to make.

Great question. I'm curious to. An engineer explained to me how vertical v-threads are worse than horizontal v-threads (he also was well versed in how ice fractures). If the cord is saturated with water, and frozen, expect it to lose some of its strength. Under normal circumstances, cord and webbing, is able to flatten out when it is tensioned around an edge. This tends to equalize the load share between the various fibers. A frozen cord can't do this because it can't flatten. Consequently, the outside fibers will take more strain than the inside ones. How much strength loss is anyone's guess.

Nice TR, but I am puzzled as to why anyone would resort to free soloing because of a stuck rope on a sport route. Anchor the bottom of the rope with enough slack for backup knots. Prusik up the rope using redundant friction knots. Tie a new backup knot each time you pass a bolt. Sure, it would take a long time, but it's safer than free soloing 5.10.

Putting the rope through your Vee Thread is essentially the same thing as making an ice bollard. I never had trouble pulling the rope on bollards. One thing to consider is that if there is running water under the ice and it's getting colder, the rope could freeze into the ice. In that case, stay with the webbing. I've had this happen with a top rope anchor I wanted to retreive. I had to chop it out, and in the end, put a knick in the cord.

I have a Marmot Arroyo rated at 35 degrees. It has baffle construction and weighs 1 lb, 11 oz. I've been down to 20 degrees with it and it's chilly, but nice and warm at 35 degrees. The only way to get down to 1 lb is sewn through construction. It's good enough for a 40 degree bag.

That was my thoughts when I climbed it. You take the odd pitches and the GF takes the even ones, which are easier (except for the last). She'll think she's pulling her weight. Bring steak and charcoal.

Not really so new. People either rapped off trees or pounded in pieces of electrical conduit. You could probably get away with a 17, but not a stubby. Doesn't matter. I'd use a double fisherman. You don't care whether it can be untied- you're leaving it. Doesn't matter. Cord is a little easier to thread than 9/16" webbing. They are ideal for top roping. Better than screws. Equalize two of them. One is okay in really good ice. Otherwise two is better.