catbirdseat

My guess is that your dog didn't grow up with cats around. Might not be a good idea to get another cat. Our dog is good pals with one of our cats. They sometimes nap together. The other cats barely tolerate the dog and she leaves them alone for the most part.

There was a previous post about this same question, if I recall.

I can't believe no one called you on this statement, especially statement number 2. The figure that I remember for recovery is 30%. Say you are right, and that an equal volume of oil is required to extract a volume of oil. You burn both in the end and both are turned into CO2 and water. That's 2 times the amount of greenhouse gases, not 5 to 10 times. .

My post in no way should be considered an endorsment of the Latona. It was for information purposes only.

Look for people who look approximately like these folks at the Latona. The wild-eyed fellow in the upper right is just Pax, trying to emphasize a point he was trying to make.

Great question. I'm curious to. An engineer explained to me how vertical v-threads are worse than horizontal v-threads (he also was well versed in how ice fractures). If the cord is saturated with water, and frozen, expect it to lose some of its strength. Under normal circumstances, cord and webbing, is able to flatten out when it is tensioned around an edge. This tends to equalize the load share between the various fibers. A frozen cord can't do this because it can't flatten. Consequently, the outside fibers will take more strain than the inside ones. How much strength loss is anyone's guess.

Nice TR, but I am puzzled as to why anyone would resort to free soloing because of a stuck rope on a sport route. Anchor the bottom of the rope with enough slack for backup knots. Prusik up the rope using redundant friction knots. Tie a new backup knot each time you pass a bolt. Sure, it would take a long time, but it's safer than free soloing 5.10.

Putting the rope through your Vee Thread is essentially the same thing as making an ice bollard. I never had trouble pulling the rope on bollards. One thing to consider is that if there is running water under the ice and it's getting colder, the rope could freeze into the ice. In that case, stay with the webbing. I've had this happen with a top rope anchor I wanted to retreive. I had to chop it out, and in the end, put a knick in the cord.

I have a Marmot Arroyo rated at 35 degrees. It has baffle construction and weighs 1 lb, 11 oz. I've been down to 20 degrees with it and it's chilly, but nice and warm at 35 degrees. The only way to get down to 1 lb is sewn through construction. It's good enough for a 40 degree bag.

That was my thoughts when I climbed it. You take the odd pitches and the GF takes the even ones, which are easier (except for the last). She'll think she's pulling her weight. Bring steak and charcoal.

Not really so new. People either rapped off trees or pounded in pieces of electrical conduit. You could probably get away with a 17, but not a stubby. Doesn't matter. I'd use a double fisherman. You don't care whether it can be untied- you're leaving it. Doesn't matter. Cord is a little easier to thread than 9/16" webbing. They are ideal for top roping. Better than screws. Equalize two of them. One is okay in really good ice. Otherwise two is better.

Tell Mr. Baker it's time he drop by this site for a visit.

I'm seeing a pattern here already. It would seem that those with flat feet seem to do better with the hard inserts, while those with high arches seem to prefer the soft types. Granted, it's a small sample size, but it sort of makes sense.

Nausea and vomiting. I hear that there is a really nasty "stomach flu" making the rounds.

I believe my question was what cam to get if I DID NOT want to replace the Alien with another Alien. My orange unit is in fact repairable. I won't be buying any new Aliens any time soon. They need to improve the design by putting in cam stops. A friend of mine sold off all his Aliens for this reason. I won't go that far, but I think lack of stops is a weakness for use in free climbing. It's probably not such an issue in aid climbing, for which Aliens were designed. I'm taking this incident as a learning experience and intend to be more careful to properly inspect my cam placements before trusting them.

How can the US tell Canada what to do on oil sands? Let economic forces dictate what happens. If the price of crude is high enough, Canadian oil companies will exploit the resource. What are we going to do, subsidize oil sands production? Bad idea. I happen to think that nuclear energy would be an excellent choice to power oil sands extraction. It would be preferable to using the oil itself as they do now. A plant could be built locally to supply electricity or even steam for oil production and vastly reduce greenhouse gas generation.

Never trust a subliminabable website.

The hill where the Mountaineers Snoqualmie Lodge used to be was good for inner tubing. I've no idea if you are allowed to go there, but it's a 5 min hike from the road.

I have the green Camalot, but not the brown tricam or the red TCU. I think I'll get the red TCU.

If you haven't yet been to see a podiatrist, then there is a place to start. Don't go to just any doc. Find one who treats athletes, not little old ladies with bunions.

I hope you don't become a pest like Toast . That guy is always bumming cigs off people because he refuses to identify himself as a smoker and just buy the damn things himself.

Kevbone has a headstart on you, dude.

Assume the placement is a shallow horizontal with a sharp edge and a fall on a C4 would kink the stem. The C4 would hold without breaking, but would have to be retired because of damage to the stem. What would you use in this situation? A solid stem Friend with a Gunks tie-off would be a good choice, perhaps.

I'd have to agree. This country has a problem with it's inability to see ourselves the way others see us. Our leaders never stop to think, "hmm, if I were in his shoes, what would I do?" It's either that or we simply don't give a damn and think we can just roll over everyone. Diplomacy is just so much cheaper than war. It can be damn slow and frustrating as hell, but it is overall better to have some balance between diplomacy and the stick. We're too damn quick to use the stick.

Time to get yourself a solo device. Regarding your prusiks, you could have hung a bag of rocks from the end of the rope for the weight and it would have been possible to use one hand to slide the knots. I hope you were using two of them.