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Everything posted by catbirdseat
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Actually, there was one (CBS?), and the climber in the picture was flamed for "sewing it up". I think it was dryad's trip report. That was dryad's first alpine trad lead and she did well to sew it up. The person who ridiculed her was properly chastized by others, if I recall correctly.
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I'll tell you someone I WOULD NOT want to see in a kilt. Dave "turkeylegs" Schuldt.
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More on the nature of the Ledges. A section fell away long ago and what was left was a 45 degree slope leading up to a headwall on your right. The wall has no cracks suitable to protect the route with gear. The snow is what makes the traverse safer, as you can use an axe to self-belay that tough but short section. When we crossed it, there some some snow, but it wasn't very well consolidated and I remember thinking that I didn't want to yard with much force on my axe shaft- it would just break out. Once past that section the "ledge" is wider, albiet still sloping, but the snow is such that here you can put in pickets or flukes, if you like. We placed three flukes on the last rope length to the base of the chute, just because it was kind of steep and we could. We placed three flukes on the exit chute, although I would have have been happier to lead that section with four or five. I am sure plenty of parties do not place running belays at all, but that is what we did. Tomcat had this awful story about a friend of a friend who got avalanched in the chute and unfortunately he had to tell everyone just before we did the pitch, so everyone was all nervous.
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Picture of the Wilson Picket By the way 10 oz is 284 gram, so Yates is the lightest 24" picket.
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I think that even on gaper routes there are things that happen on trips that can be either humorous, or informational. Not every person will see the humor. Not every person needs or wants the information. A Good TR targets its audience, but that is very difficult to do on a place like cc.com where tastes, ethics and experience levels run the gamut. As one who does the gaper routes, I target my TR's more to the gapers. The hardmen can get their jollies by reading TRs by BobbyPeru and PolishBob. My TR hero and I think of many people is UncleTricky, because his humor works across many, many levels. There's a universality about it. Uncle Tricky
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Trask's #1 Rule: "Always employ an insult when you can't think of an argument."
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Why does this crowd seem to think that someone sharing their trip and what they learned is cheastbeating? No wonder few people want to put their trip reports on this board. I for one think it is cool to hear what people learned and how they challenged their own limits. That's one of the reasons I read mountaineering books periodically. It would be so incredibly boring to just get the facts about distance, elevation gain, grade, and time. Kinda like reading a guidebook. Come on people, what are you so bothered about? I agree with ehmic. Posting a trip report is not in and of itself chestbeating. It is how you write the report that counts. The number of trip reports have fallen way off and I regard them as the most important aspect of this site.
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Moderators, can we get this thread moved to the Rainier Forum, please?
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A crappy photoshop job, but funny, nonetheless.
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Josh's new nickname, "Old Yellow Streak".
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Snomobiles bother me a lot. I encounter them all the time. They are noisy and smelly. Those are my two primary beefs with them. It wouldn't be such a problem if they would just adopt modern four stroke engines, but those won't be common for another ten years, thanks to Bush. The two strokes will be around for another 20 years at least. Has anyone thought of using rotary engines on snowmobiles? They are lighter than four stroke piston engines and cleaner than two stroke engines. Wait! The answer is YES. I have a friend who used a 90lb Wankel type engine on his 30 ft racing sailboat. The engine was air cooled and put out the same power as engines weighing three times as much. He won a lot of races.
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May your sled rest in pieces- in a crevasse- preferrably a bottomless one.
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What do you think can be done about the camping situation? Any ideas? How about more camp sites? Good? Bad? Seems to me that even though there have been more people, there hasn't been a new campground built in many, many years. Why?
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I'll tell you one thing. The national deficit would not be $500 billion.
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How about we actually get back to addressing the actual topic of the thread. Okay? This obvious satire written by an American and not an Iraqi- a very politically savvy person who obviously would like the US to exit sooner, rather than later, but demonstrating the inevitability of our own failure.
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The site seems to be a catch all for weird atmospheric phenomena.
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I don't have the wherewithal to add the accent.
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Touche, minx.
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Bush thinks he can pull the same shit he does here while visiting a foreign country. Try staging a protest anywhere within a mile of GW in this country and see what happens. It is just part of Bush's attack on civil rights.
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If any of you care, the time to get involved is now, before the Presidential Primary Election. Otherwise you'll have little choice later on.
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I believe Krugman knows what he's talking about. We should take him seriously. Our nation is at a crossroads. We're in serious trouble. If we don't turn things around soon, we'll never be able to do it. The starting point is making sure Bush isn't reelected.
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Are these widgets available here?
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At that time of year, the time to do the route depends more on conditions than on distance. It took us 5 hours from Muir to Summit to do Ingraham Direct, but 8 hours for Gib Ledges. In the former case, we had good hardpack, but two weeks later, we were postholing.
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Hi toast, long time, no see. It has warmed up a lot since the cold snap. I'd be willing to bet all that surface hoar has long since melted. At higher elevations, it could persist.