catbirdseat

That looks like a good place to hang a portaledge.

Gowans, now I know you have more in common with trask.

I'm going o Vantage this weekend to try and avoid the rain. I've never been to Middle East Wall, but I hear it is pretty good. Can you recommend any trad climbs there that are 5.10a and under? I assume there is no raptor restiction any more.

Central NY is still tops in my mind Chili - Chi lie Vienna - VIE en a Is Col pronounced like cole? How about Vienna (Veen), Florence (Fee-ren-za)

The leader would be leading the next pitch without the gear he used on the first pitch. If he has a large enough rack then no problem. The first follower up on the second pitch brings the gear from the first pitch. The composition of the rack that the leader has available will vary from pitch to pitch.

Huh? Short easy hike with the new footbridge, right? I havent been this year but the footbridge was there last year. Maybe I dont understand. Sarcasm?

Okay, smartass, I meant the "10% better than 50% "figure or 60% accurate for forecasts.

I don't know why I don't just buy a couple motor bikes. It would solve a lot of problems.

I don't go by the icons anyway. I go to "Detailed". But yes the cities are the closest ones to the stations.

Where do you get the 50% figure?

None of the above. Wunderground has been remarkably accurate.

Here. Take this with you.

That isn't their aim. Their aim is to make everyone a "paying customer" by forcing them into expensive snowparks so that they can subsidize use by snowmobilers.

Be careful what you wish for...

The reverso has a self-locking mode that allows the rope to come in but not go out. One can let go of one rope while pulling in the other without endangering anyone.

It was not my intention to disrespect the memory of the dead, but that is how it was taken. Therefore, I apologise for the the inconsiderate remark I made. If there was a point to be made it is this: there are things that can happen to climbers that are beyond our control, no matter how skilled or careful we may be. Rodchester was a good man. RIP.

The Reverso would have been much better. On this particular climb, having two ropes cut down on rope drag a lot.

Don't forget that the magic X is not perfect at instantly equalizing all the pieces. Due to friction, more load can go on one piece than on the other. I don't think there is any one perfect solution. If I were going to use the X is would probably only be on a pair of bolts.

I brought this back up because I finally tried climbing with doubles and three climbers, although I used an ATC rather than a Reverso. There's a lot to like about it; one follower cleans all the gear his rope is clipped into, while the other follower cleans his own gear. We were probably quite a bit slower than a party of two because of inexperience with the sytem. We weren't comfortable having both followers climb simultaneously on every pitch, but we did do that on all but two or three hardest ones. If two of the three climbers are willing to simul rap, three can get down as fast or faster than a party of two, because more hands to pull and coil rope.

That would be the Queest-Alb glacier. I never learned where the name came from.

There are some multipitch at Vantage, but not many, and those are not popular.

This post was moved to here from Spray. The supposed culprits were from Agentina where ethics are apparently quite different. Cutting out old bad slings is one thing, but cutting good slings and leaving them as trash is inexcusable. This for $5 worth of rap rings?

Post deleted by Off_White

I only had time to climb on one day out of the three. I picked Saturday to climb Dreamer with Toast. Guess which day was the rainy one.

There is a certain alpine club that frequently makes its students wear helmets from the parking lot.