catbirdseat

The reverso has a self-locking mode that allows the rope to come in but not go out. One can let go of one rope while pulling in the other without endangering anyone.

It was not my intention to disrespect the memory of the dead, but that is how it was taken. Therefore, I apologise for the the inconsiderate remark I made. If there was a point to be made it is this: there are things that can happen to climbers that are beyond our control, no matter how skilled or careful we may be. Rodchester was a good man. RIP.

The Reverso would have been much better. On this particular climb, having two ropes cut down on rope drag a lot.

Don't forget that the magic X is not perfect at instantly equalizing all the pieces. Due to friction, more load can go on one piece than on the other. I don't think there is any one perfect solution. If I were going to use the X is would probably only be on a pair of bolts.

I brought this back up because I finally tried climbing with doubles and three climbers, although I used an ATC rather than a Reverso. There's a lot to like about it; one follower cleans all the gear his rope is clipped into, while the other follower cleans his own gear. We were probably quite a bit slower than a party of two because of inexperience with the sytem. We weren't comfortable having both followers climb simultaneously on every pitch, but we did do that on all but two or three hardest ones. If two of the three climbers are willing to simul rap, three can get down as fast or faster than a party of two, because more hands to pull and coil rope.

That would be the Queest-Alb glacier. I never learned where the name came from.

There are some multipitch at Vantage, but not many, and those are not popular.

This post was moved to here from Spray. The supposed culprits were from Agentina where ethics are apparently quite different. Cutting out old bad slings is one thing, but cutting good slings and leaving them as trash is inexcusable. This for $5 worth of rap rings?

Post deleted by Off_White

I only had time to climb on one day out of the three. I picked Saturday to climb Dreamer with Toast. Guess which day was the rainy one.

There is a certain alpine club that frequently makes its students wear helmets from the parking lot.

I'd have to agree with Matt. Under normal circumstances, it is a lot faster to just walk off than to rap that gully.

At Exit 38, try Write-Off Rock near the Trestle. At the far side there is also The Gritscone. All of these can allow you to set up a top rope by scrambling to the top. At exit 32 there is a 5.6, and 5.7 you can top rope from the anchors for Mambo Jambo. You can walk around to the top to set it up.

Now you're talking. If we head up to Exit 38 after work this week, we'll give you a yell.

Excellent crop of low bush berries on Stickney. Yum. Good blueberries have a tendency to slow one's progress, significantly.

I don't have any pain or any less flexibility in the affected fingers. I showed it to my Ear Nose and Throat doc who said that if I went to a hand specialist, he'd want to do surgery. He thought that if it didn't hurt and it didn't affect function, to not worry about it.

Sort of true. Cold air is denser (more moles of gas/volume), but it is still 21% oxygen. It's why baseballs carry farther in warm weather.

That sounds Laytonesque.

Larry, that's really low.

We got Dwayner back, too, in the guise of mild mannered (okay not so mild mannered) Merv Griffin. I think the name comes from MIRV for Multiple Independent Reentry Vehicle. All we need is trask...where are you buddy?

It was an interesting experience. It really built my confidence to know that one can still manage to climb in the rain. Here's Jim leading the first 5.9 pitch. Here's Toast leading his 5.9 (note the rope-eating flake). Toast and Catbirdseat at the summit

Now that you mention this, Muffy, doing your homework and looking at the topo, or studying the route before you get on it can be just as important to your safety. It get's your head into what you are doing, so to speak.

Vaccinium ovatum = Evergreen Huckleberry (more common in olympics) Vaccinium parvifolium = Red Huckleberry (very commonly seen on stumps) Vaccinium alaskaense = Common cascade blueberry Vaccinium mebranaseum =Black Huckleberry If you want to look them up.

I CANT BLEIVE TAHT SOM3ON3 W3NT 2 TEH TROUBL3 2 CRAAET THIS TRANSLA2R!11! WTF LOL

I think these hostage takers are are sub-human monsters and they shouldn't be allowed to die painless deaths.