catbirdseat

It's a made for cc.com movie. I can't believe E-Rock isn't touting it's merits! Gay bivies! Lot of sheep! Discuss.

It's a good thing that your 5.7 doesn't have a bouldery finish. It's okay if you can't get off the ground but a lot worse if you have to resort to aid or lower off because you can't finish. By the way, how do you stick clip if there aren't any bolts?

I didn't come up with it first. I just posted a picture of the same from a different angle. This bolted crack represents the extreme case, about which few would disagree. I doubt even DFA would defend this particular instance, although his attitude would lead some to believe that his position to be all cracks are fair game.

Let's make it Tuesday! And Dave, take note. It's spelled TOMORROW. Remember no A's and two R's.

I tell you it's damn nice to be able to walk next door from Stone Gardens to the Lockspot to have a beer and not get all stinky. The still smells of lingering smoke, but that will go away, eventually.

One occasionally encounters the words "bouldery start" in guide books. Often this means that the opening moves are way harder than the rest of the climb. So for some reason, the climb gets rated based not on its hardest moves, but on the majority of the climbs not counting the start. An example of this is Cat Burglar, 5.6 at Castle Rock, Tumwater Canyon. The rating is accurate if you don't count the first move. Another example is Celestial Groove, 5.9, Pearly Gates, Icicle Canyon. The start is much harder than 5.9, in my opinion. I'd like to start a discussion by asking what does "bouldery start" mean to you? Does it just mean "harder than the rest" or does it mean something else like "more steep" or tricky. Can you come up with more examples?

It is also the trailhead for Stilliguamish and Twin Peaks.

Joseph, do you think fixed pins are better than bolts? They may be aesthetically more pleasing because they are part of the crack, but functionally they are the same as bolts.

Don't you mean the Perry Creek Road?

Because the local climbers are pussies?

That Dwayner climbs 5.13... or could if he chose to.

I think only the ones with the dog.

You argument is the aesthetic one. Every crack is different and each crack can be protected in any number of ways. It puts an element of variety and a sense of discovery into each climb. Now bolts...well a bolt is a bolt is a bolt.

Yes, as Chongo put it, Americans have the government they deserve, even though you Canadians never did anything to deserve it.

Here's another view of the same climb. Looks protectable to me.

I was having fun reading through old guidebooks lent to me by Roboboy and comparing old descriptions to newer ones. Of course many routes that were aid went free. Usually the rating went up but sometimes it went down, either due to sticky rubber soles or cleaning of the route. A few examples follow: Orbit (1965), 5.8/ A3, 33 pitons, 4 bolts Orbit (1996) 5.8+, four stars, Pro to 3" Remorse (1965), 5.7/ A2, 40 pitons, 5 bolts Remorse (1996), 5.8, two deathheads ®, Pro to 3" White Slabs (1965), 5.9, 12 pitons White Slabs (1996), 5.7, Pro to 2" White Fright (1965), 5.7/ A4, 20 pitons White Fright (1996), 5.9+, one star, Pro to 2" Saber (1965), 5.3 Saber (1996), 5.4 Saber (2004), 5.5

Don't get me wrong. I'm not defending religion. I am just saying that people who are religious don't take the global view that you do. They don't really care about its benefits for society, but rather are driven by a desire for personal salvation. The need for religion is deeply selfish, just like the need to procreate.

I'm thinking "hey 15 gig isn't so big", then I go, "oh, 15 meg! Timewarp!"

That is what can best be described as a Gilliganism.

You may not see any benefit in religion, but clearly there must be a benefit, otherwise it would not be as popular as it is.

I really like this quote: (Arvin)"Isn't theoretical physics, in it's attempt to explain the universe, just another religion? (Chongo) "What? Religion is stating assertions. Science is the pursuit of truth. Religion is the pursuit of a particular preference of truth, that which benefits the devotee." That last sentence is the most succinct and yet thorough expression I have ever seen of what religion is.

Mostly Dru is right. One can get headaches from lack of caffeine, but it only takes a day or two to adjust. I might just add (and I think that Twight pointed this out) by using caffeine sparingly in day to day living, it will have more of a kick during climbs when you really need it.

Not more diurectic, but the result would be a less hydrated state. Yes there is, and there are also two related substances, the dimethylxanthines theobromine (also found in chocolate) and theophylline, which is used to treat asthma.

Roasting is part of the dealie since some caffeine goes up the chimney during the roasting process, but more due to the fact that "gourmet" (arabica) coffee is balanced in acidity and lower in caffeine from the getgo a different bean than more common (Robusta) canned coffees which are higher in caffeine and acidity. *Sorry for the digression. Caffeine has a negligible volatility. I doubt any is lost in that way. It could be lost through pyrrolysis, or oxidation however.

I agree that you will never need to post again, but I believe you will continue to post, regardless.