catbirdseat

This incident points out how use of the autoblock for rappelling if often a good idea. If ice comes down and smacks your brake hand, it would be good to have that autoblock there, as a back up. It was very lucky indeed that Ryland's partner wasn't hit on his brake hand.

Perhaps I misinterpreted your intent. I was very tired.

Korup and I went to Banks Lake today. We climbed Trotsky's Folly. The bottom 10 meters is WI 2+. The top 15 meters is WI4. It seemed a lot like a pillar with fluting. It was hard for me, not having ever tried something like that, but it was fun. There are huge deathcicles hanging over Devil's Punchbowl, or whatever that nearby WI2 area is called. Trotsky's revenge was in but looked too spicy for the likes of us. I had a few icicles hanging over it but not nearly as bad as DP. Stopped at 59'er Diner on the way home and ran across Eric and Ray who had been climbing ice up near Lake Wenatchee.

Well, your post was undoubtedly directed at me since you know I am over 40 and I certainly do not climb 8a or not even 7a. I don't even know how to translate that to YDS, nor do I care.

Robert, you are micromanaging this thread.

Who's speaking here, Sexual_Chocolate, Dwayner, or Pope? Can't tell who is being quoted or what. And of course, I wouldn't want Pope banned. I was sorry to see Dwayner banned and would still like to see him return. Also, there is a difference between "extreme" and "lunatic". I never accused either of you of being the latter, which would be someone who wanted to shut down all climbing.

Further proof of how the Internet has enriched our lives.

I'll bet you got one of those micromanaging S.O.B's!

Now they are in college and they are still into bouldering. They are all tatooed and pierced now.

"I'm all ears"

Nope.

You are hearby granted a special variance. Start cutting.

I'm not going to comment any further. I've been beaten down too many times.

There aren't enough people able to overcome their conditioning (I mean with bad enough manners), to comment on such a scurrilous topic as this. I mean it would be just plain WRONG.

For our protection, no doubt.

Hmmm... Gary_Yngve's party was just up thata way...

You are one perceptive guy.

Hey, don't make fun of composting. It's the wave of the future. You'll be doing it some day too.

Pope, I challenge you to be other than the one-dimensional bore that you have been. If you could expound on other facets of climbing than this one issue, people might take you more seriously. The fact is that you take the most extreme view possible. The one that there is no place for any bolts, ever. You are just telling everybody that sport climbs that they shouldn't enjoy their sport and that they are destroying the environment. That's like trying to tell all the snowmobiliers they should stop because they are polluting or telling the ATV crowd they should be banned from ever using their machines because they can destroy the landscape. In all these issues the best approach is to manage the problem rather than trying to make it all go away in one fell swoop. I'm wasting my breath, as this is spray.

No, you got it all wrong. He was supporting that column. Right after that picture was taken the roof collapsed.

I've heard it said that it doesn't autoblock very well on small diameter ropes compared to the Reversino.

Did you witness this?

He wants to practice for the North Ridge of Everest.

That infamous Jeff Lowe lawsuit of 2003 was settled out of court for an undisclosed sum.

Trango has revised the design of the B-52. They have lowered and rounded the brake surface to reduce "biner shift" and they have made the metal thicker on the small end (used for clipping to the anchor). It was claimed that the reason for this design change was to provide more surface for the glue bond holding the keeper cable. It should be noted that in the original design, 40% of this metal could be worn away and the device still failed at above 13 kN. Anyway, those who worried about this have less to worry about.