Don't forget that Mr. Sherman was rapelling on a single static line using a GriGri. The loads imparted using this method would be far in excess of what they would be using dynamic line and an ATC.
You have a good point. Manufacturers have not done enough to explain the proper use of these slings. It should not be surprising to anyone that when you go "high tech" that there will be more limitations on how the equipment can be used than the low tech alternative.
Indeed. We had Wayne, Dave, Matt, Ross, Jim, Kelly, Rob, Jason, Samantha and myself. Jim told some stories about F--d that had me laughing my head off.
The more guns the better. If everyone packed heat, crime would decrease. Plus the stupid/criminal types would get weeded out real quick. Guns are great, if used properly.
This is wishful thinking. More likely we'd see more people killed by guns, because they are so often NOT used properly. More arguments would be settled with bullets, rather than words or fists.
I just think that people need to realize that Spectra should be regarded rather like wire instead of like cord. Don't do anything with Spectra that you wouldn't do with wire. This modulus on this stuff is so low that it just doesn't tolerate sharp bends under load. Always use carabiners to join Spectra slings to other components of your system.
It is notable that we have not heard about sling failure when this stuff is catching lead falls. There is a reason for this. Most people use of carabiners.
http://www.ramutasresoles.com
Apparently he's not using Stone Gardens as a drop off point anymore, but the three Vertical World gyms are still available. REI used to do it but not anymore. How about Feathered Friends? Do they still ship?
I would argue that these results are by no means counter intuitive.
Low-impact force of rope reduces loading on last point of protection.
Static Belay device increases loading on last point.
Friction along the chain of protection increases loading on the last point. This is the take home message from the Beal site.
Friction from changes of rope angle at carbiners and from rubbing on rock increases the "effective fall factor". Quote are mine. If you restrict movement of the rope, it cannot stretch to absorb the impact. The last segment of the rope has to absorb most of the impact. The best way to think of it is that the true fall factor (or effective FF) is higher than the calculated fall factor.
A round profile would tend to make the sling weaker when used around an object with a small radius compared to a flat profile. I would never use such a sling with anything but a carabiner. No girth hitches.
Heat resistance, yes. UV resistance, no. My experience with Kevlar sails is that light breaks them down pretty quickly, about twice as fast as polyester.
I saw this story in the newspaper this morning. I thought it was a interesting read. The guy has hired noted local attorney Steve Berman to represent him.
My take is that, while he won't come out of this smelling like a rose, he just might be vindicated.
Edwin Wilson Story
KOMO News
Don't know if anyone saw this but there was a missing 19 year old thought to be a murder victim. They had to let the suspected killer go because they couldn't find a body.
The related story