billcoe

Walking away isn't bad advice SC. To me, it doesn't seem all that long ago that Blake was showing up here on CC asking stupid clueless questions and getting (some) rough answers. Now he's got the cover story on Rock and Ice...well, don't know if it's the cover for sure - but one of the kick assed ones in there any way. Probably easily outclimbing 90 percent of the rest of us. Times been flying. I was in Red Rocks last week (reading Blakes story about Red Rocks!) and one of my partners, the kid young enough to be my son (my wife keeps laughing about this, otherwise I'd never think of the age thing) has grey hairs now and is doing the heavy lifting. No complaints though, it's all been good. Keep on keeping on SC.

I'm not going to bitch on Summit. He's just all jazzed up and into it I suspect. Thats all. I was thinking complaining about youth was just being a mark of a crotchety old man Dane. Probably if you could tolerate Summitchaser he'd be a good guy to mentor. As you get older and weaker he gets stronger and pretty soon he's leading all the hard stuff:-) But I suppose that it's not the youth that folks are complaining about. Powderhound up there might even be younger than summit up there. I bet the hound must have had a couple of winters of 50-100 plus water ice climbing days that he needs to show more photos on. Probably climbed more days in one of his winters in Montana than most of us have done in our life. No bitching from me. Regards to all!

I'm voting this thread most disappointing of the year....

Smart? HAH! I am nowhere near that smart! Brian, I really have no idea who Jim discussed this with or didn't mention it too (although I'm reading of some right now:-) . He's on the phone all day and I'm at work, and I'm totally clueless who he talks too - when, why or what about. Sometimes I might hear something later, sometimes I don't hear jack or shit, and generally I don't cause it's not my place to dog a buddy around and listen in on his calls. I suspect that he talked it over with a lot more folks than I ever communicate with at anytime. I didn't not "consult" a single person about any name change about this spot - ever, zero, zilch, never, nada - that I know about but I do drink heavily on occasion so it's not definitive of course. It wasn't my trip at all, I was along for the ride and got to hang my head out the car window as we cruised the strip much like Ginger up there in Ivans cartoon. Kind of like the Cathedral/Coethedral thing. People just run off and start doing what they do. I came a bit late to that party too and I still catch myself calling it CAthedral like Ben and I named it, cause it's locked in my brain even though I do like the 2nd version as it's more distinctive and separates it from half a zillion other climbing locations already named CAthedral. So you'll be calling this spot Drop Zone for ever, and it will forever mark you as one who came first, a pioneer. That's the way it is and there ain't nothing wrong with it at all. The only cliff I've ever been guilty of renaming I can't get everyone on board with my new name and I won't even say what that name (old or new) is on here. But it's not been mentioned yet. Be aware that I had zero to do with any name change at The Farside except to nod my head a few times (first side to side and later up and down) when I was asked. Even now, I really don't care except as far as supporting Jim, but like you say - it's just climbing. I was overly cautious in restricting my bolting and drilling as you know, but I accepted it because I was asked nicely. The name and the vision was Jim's. Again, having this discussion online is not productive if you guys all really think the name should be trash pit, garbage zone, Ivan's Bone Zone (my fav), Drop Zone, Far Side or whatever: I ain't the guy and this ain't the venue to get anything done but yowling to the moon. That You, Kevin and JH are all yowling in harmony is probably a first and certainly worth watching in fun and interest. Yet I suspect that there is much more who would yowl the other way as well but are too smart to be posting here about it. As a interesting note: was there last Saturday, and near the base of the wide crack you and Tyler started and Tyler and Arent finished, there is a brand new hella massive boulder smack dab in the middle of the trail. regards to all my brothers:

Well, that pic disappeared...hmmmmmmmmm, while we wait, perhaps the Dawg should reflect on this: Which was full of the larger ones at one point: Which was the evolution of this 1954's Warren Harding hanger that had a 1/4 x 1-1/4" split shank construction bolt on it. In most folks world view, in many ways, things have gotten better.

You need to be reading timetravelers posts then.....he's having his own lil crisis up there - jus sayin' is all. As Kevin has already discussed this with Jim, I suppose from Kevin's perspective, this must feel much like when, as a young pre-teen, your parents say "no".....so you start running around trying to pitch your case to everyone else. "God, grant me the serenity To accept the things I cannot change; Courage to change the things I can; And wisdom to know the difference. " .............

I've noticed that a lot of the work that gets done...even at those major population areas and major climbing spots, is done via donations of time by volunteers. If anyone is thinking that they don't have the scratch to pony up, an alternative, and often more valuable contribution, is your time. Call them up and go to work. Thanks for anyone and everyone who has done this.

So you know Bone, Jim went around and kindly asked every single person who was climbing out there what they thought of the name Farside. Jim. Not anyone else. That a few folks weren't out there at the time and missed this is not unusual, yet it doesn't change the fact that the 10-20 or so folks he did ask were all encouraging and good with it, even if Jim had to convince a few of us with some extra words and debate. As far as your false contention of him being a "second wave developer", that is a double slam. He didn't come second to anyone and he's not a "developer", that some bullshit title that doesn't apply. He's a "climber". That he might have rolled some loose rocks off a route before climbing it still only makes him a "climber". These routes were there a long time before Jim was even born. He climbed it first, sure, but developers build housing tracts and that was not done in this case. As far as I know, Jim has never built a house or a housing tract. Hopefully that clears that stupid bullshit up for you. Since YOU seem so dead set on driving this rickety old bus down this dirt road towards the cliff, perhaps you can lay out how many routes you have put up out there? What is your personal "investment". How many trail days do you have? How many cleaning days do you have? How many routes you have put up, or are planing on putting up? How much time and effort have you personally put in there? Give us the numbers on why you seem to appear so self-entitled and self-important to be able to turn the world upside down and effect this change to make yourself happy - etc etc. Why you feel you get to make this name change decision for the rest of us? I was out there yesterday with Chad in the rain and didn't see you anywhere. If you are speaking for others, I'd suggest that you let them speak for themselves, and as Pink says, keep it off the internet. For myself, I don't really care what it's called. Seriously. But Jim does and in my world view, it's his to decide and choose. I'm honored that he asked my opinion first, but touch base with Jim and everyone else involved - figure it out, then get back and tell us all what you have all decided. I can give you Jims phone number as you appear to need it. Like Andrew says, you are not doing anything by braying about it on the internet. If you truly want to effect change, make the call. Here is a gift for you, I'd suggest you chant this to yourself in your spare time, perhaps a new mantra might be personally helpful for you: "God, grant me the serenity To accept the things I cannot change; Courage to change the things I can; And wisdom to know the difference. " I'm not joking and do not mean to offer that as any kind of a put down. It's a good verse, keep it tucked away in your mind and hopefully it can be of help for you in your day to day life. Let me know if I can help you out any further.

I can split those separately: Cost: near bankruptcy for the country and a huge debt. Justification: made up lies to get in: even more loss of trust in our elected leaders. Outrageous costs and minimal justification. Mostly we alienated the entire international community by our complete disregard for the protocols they believed we should have followed. In doing so, we have made the world a more unsafe place going forward. We got lucky, so far, but it ain't over till it's over and it ain't over yet. We have not completed our objectives. It's not over.

Can't you focus you pictures better JH? I thought you were a war photog or sumpin? Jim as lad in training: Jim now a couple hundred feet up on the Gingerbread Shortcut: I think the quote may have been, "Any chance you assholes can get that rope over to me"? Current gift idea may involve replacement of that old blue daisy chain thing there.

http://www.washingtontimes.com/news/2010/nov/12/pg-county-executive-wife-arrested-fbi-sting/?page=1

Fixed it. Jim (with Mike) Jim Jim Wake me up and let me know if anything changes guys.

Caves...oooohhh. I'll try it after my testicles drop and I become a man:-) Thanks for the invite.

Jim Jim Jim Looks complete. I wasn't going to post, but there you are. I can't add to that post except that maybe you should go ask Jim what he thinks? Hey Chad? You staying dry tomorrow or want to go hang?

Ground breaking Johnny Dawes pro on hard British Gritstone. Mick Ryan put this link on St. Where clean climbing was invented and still 3 times cleaner than the dawg up there could imagine. With a few inventive exceptions. Proving only perhaps that one mans trash is another country's excellent route protection.

Go for it anyway. Ask the vet if you can get the 2 for 1 special. Bet Dave can't lowball that one! ps, congrats on being single again.....I think.

The fact that we are in total agreement on this part in no way diminishes what a fucked up piece of shit egotistical dickhead you are and apparently want to remain.

Interesting take on it in the Canadian Free press: http://www.canadafreepress.com/index.php/article/29770

I'm back! Just as well, the weather dropped from the low to med-80's to in the 60's with spates of rain here and there. ps, I'd need to be sedated and drug into that hole. Little Larry (Harpe- the guy with the cowboy hat, cig and a Mad Rock pad strapped to his back on tiny bike in Moab in the Mad Rock commercials that ran on the back of climbing mag) and I did a FA up in the middle of nowhere that entailed a squeeze to exit and summit. His slender frame slipped right through while my wide body got stuck. Good and stuck. I could barely breath. I can't adequately describe the terror. I finally was able to pull back, and we hand drilled a rap station to get down. Don't want to experience that twice.

Sure, but how do you explain away his constant, 100% and extreme douchebaggery ?

Ditto, and on Veterans day too. The one day of the year that some of the egotistical rubes like Pat on this board can stop spitting on military folks and say a kind word!

Undoubtedly just another swamp gas and mass hysteria combo platter.........

Figure that a single "accident" will most likely cost you over $100,000 ...$500 a month for 18 years compounded..plus the psychic wound-no charge for that..jus' sayin' is all.

Nice! I don't think I could make that turn.