billcoe

Ivascumbag: Do you have an outdoors based model, like where you can clip off biners and stuff?

FIXED:-)

Uhhh, I know what you mean, but can you flesh that out with some real details?

I don't know how fair it is to Mirks to keep bumping this thread as Alex deleted his posts...(good on you Alex) However, here's a link to start, then go to google, you'll see it's not uncommon. http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=2265066;page=1;mh=-1;;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC

I'd loan you one of mine Mikey but you are in the wrong state. The condition I put on it usually turns folks off anyway....ie, I come with the drill:-) Good luck!

LOL...it's alright. I had a vision of this. Still a pisser. Who takes a single hanger off of a bolt? I once bought a bunch of 3/8 hangers off E-bay trying to save a buck. Then later I thought about that, and Ken Nichols (or how anyone might get used hangers) and figured that I'd never buy a used hanger again unless I knew the history. Yours may show up on ebay. I suppose that's true of all gear one buys used. I once had someone take a single chain off of a 2 chain anchor...left me scratching my head wondering the same thing. Why just one? Take both cause you are a thief or you are just pissed that there is an anchor there and want it gone, I'd understand both - but just one? WT heck is that all about. I went back, replaced the 1 missing chain, torqued it down and slathered that plumbing epoxy stuff all over the tops of the so that a wrench won't fit anywhere on it. They have been left alone for quite some time now. The other thing I have taken too doing, although it has recently failed me on a set of stainless Fixe chains in the local shithole area and got ripped off, is red (permanent) loctite. I suspect that failed cause I sometimes buy the cheap stuff, not real loctite, and occasionally it's past it's shelf life and no good. I'm taken to getting real stuff at a high traffic location, like Builder Square has it in paint section. BTW, my kids grew up but I still seem to be in giving advice mode. I had one partner, who at one point was less experience than me but then climbed his ass off and got much better all over the place doing big walls and all kinds of things, get all pissy cause I was suggested more than once that he pro a 5.9 hand crack. Dude just ignored me so I repeated myself...cough* twice*. He was 20 feet directly above me on a hanging belay with no pieces in. I thought he hadn't heard me while he thought if he ignored me I'd STFU. Once we got up on the next ledge and he calmed down enough he gave me a piece of his mind.... Didn't mean to piss off a good dude, but I did. So if anyone doesn't want to hear it, I'll stfu. Good luck! Cheese and wine...mmmmmmmm

He might be checking that out as we speak Jon. It's a breathtaking subject it appears. "NJ Governor Christie hospitalized with breathing trouble" http://www.publicbroadcasting.net/kera/news.newsmain/article/0/0/1833713/US/NJ.Governor.Christie.hospitalized.with.breathing.trouble By the way, on Dougs point above, I thought McCains choice of Palin was such a display of bad judgment on his part that there is no way you'd want a guy making serious decisions that poorly. On deck: the Obama fulfillment of the video. [video:youtube]

Ya have now. First time I saw it it was my blue Maxim and the rappel ( or should have ended like the previous time I'd been on the route with the same rope LOL) ended on the ground and fortunately not mid wall someplace. It clearly and obviously happened, I was shocked that it was so significant (and unexpected). Later, I learned that is just what happens, some ropes more than others as noted up thread, some Mfg will cut their ropes long to adjust to this. Now I have lots of ropes and climb less so I don't tend to notice this like when I had a single lead rope and climbed a lot, but keep an eye on your rope ends as you rappel Kimmo. Taking something like that for granted might be deadly. There is lots of discussion on this issue on the internet. Even more important and critical, if anyone is putting in new route rappel stations, don't head out with your new rope and stretch out the length on the rap stations and thus defacto screw over anyone with an old rope who comes along later.

John, alternately cracking up and staring horrified at the outright craziness and stupidity. Good stuff.

I think a lot of the "stuff" that occurs up there is that the city chose to site or allow a Methadone clinic (synthetic opioid treatment clinic) on 82nd avenue. Then the neighborhood went downhill and even more trash moved in. This is something that will and needs to happen someplace. But it is happening here. The Ram clinic just north of Fremont on 82nd ave near the Kings Row motel. The Kings row and surrounding area has had heroin and drug issues for a long long time...so it was a natural and good spot for a clinic to help those folks. Yet in my belief system, "bums" - that is, in this case folks trying to live off the grid and on their own, who don't need to go through the soup line everyday for whatever reason but want to live with nature yet close to services, should get our support. They need water and sanitation. At the very minimum, they don't need the city stealing their only means of staying warm, sleeping bags and rain tarps, and throwing that critical stuff into the garbage with no recourse. Not all bums are crooks. Not all crooks are bums. Not all bums at the Butte are recovering or attempting to be recovering opiate addicts. For myself, I don't want to start choosing the parts of the constitution I want to see happen and suggesting we change or ignore the parts I don't like. The search and seizure laws apply to homeless and those with homes alike. Fortunately. Sometimes bums are crazy. Sometimes they are crooks: often they just want a peaceful and beautiful spot to live unfucked by the man for a while..... John, so you know, Glenn (You me and Glenn doing "Glenns route") was a bum during that time period. He lived at Rocky Butte and in Washington Park....splitting his time between summer and winter homes so to speak I suppose. Drank too much was his issue. Toked out, but it was the beer that did him in. ...meantime, some of them sure toss a lot of trash on the ground and don't pick up their trash. True. But all the broken glass, hypodermics and condoms up there are most likely not bums, but just lowlifes. Glenn, I know, tried to make the place better. Tomorrow night at 5:30 is the cleanup. Meet across from the Bible dome near Video Bluff again. I may not do it again, but it would be nice for Amber and Cory to see some support if anyone has free time. Not telling anyone what to do, last time ODOT had asked us not to touch anyone who was living theres' stuff, no matter if it is garbage or goods. Now, despite that they have settled the suit, we actually still need to be reasonable for the scattered folks living hand to mouth in the woods up there who are less fortunate than those of us living in kick assed comfortable homes. If we are unable to help them, the least we can do is to NOT hurt them by hauling that dirty blue tarp with the holes in it that looks like trash......away. Regards to all, but especially to the new folks showing up doing all the heavy lifting up there.

You should track it and make sure it arrived. My dates look like this. I did the paperwork/downloaded the form on 6-21. UPS collect shipped it back with their call tag on 6-22. They let me know it arrived (I tracked it and knew) the day AFTER it got there and they announced on 7-5 that they had shipped me a new one. I had sent a note that I wanted to change form the butt-ugly blue color to the orange and they obliged. I've had it out several times. Good luck Jens!

Ropes ALL shrink with use and age. ALL OF THEM. EVERY DAMN ONE. It was driven home to me when I went out to do a Beacon classic and the very same rope I had used 2 years earlier and both ends had touched the ground was in fact 10 feet short on each end. That's what happens. If you needed a full 60m you should have bought a new one. No one I know measures their used ropes, even when they sell them. Yours has factory wraps on both ends if the pics are real, indicating that it hasn't been cut: and if Alex bought it as a 60m you are buying a 60 meter rope, I don't care how long you think it should be. It's universally called a 60 meter rope. It might be exactly 52 meters but next year if you sell it and call it a 52 meter rope, the guy won't F**ing pay for it cause by then it will be 49.5 meters or something shorter than 52. I thought I had a pretty good solution, burning nylon isn't a good thing for the air as it's a toxic poison.

Maybe another Canadian who may live close that Alex knows or is well known, like that Hoser G-spotter, can wander by and verify one story or the other? Maybe pick up the rope for the next time he bumps into the Alex? That way, Mirks doesn't pay for a rope he feels was misrepresented and eventually Alex gets it back. He's still out the freight fee of course, not much to do about that.

It's at $51 NOW...TRY $52. GOOD LUCK!

WTF! You bitched with extra mean swear words about some jackass chopping your new bolts got everyone feeling bad and upset and now you are deleting your words? WTF!!!? Own up with the full story or I might have to quote some rude sheep sex thing and claim it's your first post! LOL!

Thanks for the report Rad. Clarks Nutcracker tearing into a Whitebark Pinecone. Holding your hand up with a peanut in it will often get the Clarks to come pick it right out of your fingers if they are around...kids love em. [img=http://www.craterlakeinstitute.com/natural-history/images/plants-nutcracker-whitebark-pine.jpg]http://www.craterlakeinstitute.com/natural-history/images/plants-nutcracker-whitebark-pine.jpg[/img] Whitebark pine Coming out on Washington DNR land (state managed) last weekend with a non-US native, he asked about the obvious logging...I was a tad embarrassed. Said "well, they clear cut cause ... cause...it's easier and it makes more money.". They trash all of the other trees here, a diverse group of things...like this (paused to poke a big old rotten Western Red cedar laying prone) with all these little Doug Firs..cause it.....cause it makes them more money......Hmmm. Seemed wrong to leave it like that so I added. I think that these Western Red Ceders will be worth a lot more, but they aren't so rare right now and they take longer to harvest so....ahhh, nevermind..... "why did they burn everything?" Ahhh, maybe thats a slash pile burn that got out of control...or maybe they wanted to better control what grew afterwards, I have no way of knowing. Maybe they wanted to merely reduce hazardous fuels ...? Look, how the hell would I know anything about that? " LOL No idea. I let professionals do their thing.

When we were picking up the garbage at the Butte cleanup, Odot had directed us to steer clear of any "homeless" domiciles. This lead to at least one spot of deep trash being left. Here's the whole story. Typical news edit error, they have 2 different numbers in the story:-) You'd think that would be the easy part to get right. $14,000, $24,000....same thing. LOL I'm actually happy for the folks who had their trash trashed by the trashees. "Agency paid $14,000 and tightened its procedures for campsite sweeps By Kevin Harden The Portland Tribune, Jul 26, 2011 Oregon’s Department of Transportation has paid $24,000 to settle a federal lawsuit filed last year by several homeless campers whose possessions were tossed out by crews clearing rights of way of makeshift shelters. The state transportation agency also agreed last month to write and enforce stricter procedures for handling possessions taken from homeless camps in rights of way. Under the rewritten rules, ODOT and other agencies must post adequate information about where campers can retrieve their belongings once they are taken in a campsite sweep. “It was clear that we had not followed our own procedures in cleaning up the sites,” said Patrick Cooney, ODOT spokesman. “We worked with the Oregon Law Center to develop a new process and the ways we’re going to do this in the future.” Under the settlement, Cooney said $14,000 pays attorney’s fees and $10,000 will be given to plaintiffs Joel Tucker, Steven Fletcher, Jeff Nelson, Robert Dean Thomas, Chandra Waulters and Mitchal Poncel. Court papers completing the settlement are expected to be filed by early August. In April 2010, six homeless people sued ODOT, the Multnomah County Sheriff’s Office and about 50 unidentified county and state employees for what they said were violations of their Fourth Amendment constitutional rights against unreasonable search and seizure, and the failure of the agencies to follow state rules on storing personal items found in homeless camps. The Oregon Law Center of Portland handled the case. The center also represents four homeless people who are challenging Portland’s anti-camping ordinance in federal court. That lawsuit, filed in mid-December 2008, was nearly settled last year, but an alternative dispute resolution process failed to produce an agreement. In the lawsuit against ODOT, the homeless people said that during a sweep of their campsite near Interstate 205 and Southeast 92nd Avenue, state employees failed to follow agency rules and to properly store belongings for 30 days. Tucker said took him 21 days to retrieve his possessions from a state storage facility, something he says should not have happened if the employees had followed state rules. The lawsuit also asked a federal judge to approve an injunction against the state and county to block public employees from taking personal property from campsites without adequate notice and without posting information about how to retrieve the items. Cooney said ODOT has the rewritten procedures are “more clear” and “put a finer edge” on the process “so everyone knows what to follow.” “We want to do this properly and not heavy-handedly,” he said. http://www.portlandtribune.com/news/story.php?story_id=131165626644472600

http://www.kgw.com/news/local/Washington-mans-murder-conviction-vacated-126156983.html the creaky wheel gets the grease. Conviction overturned on the formerly alleged but later convicted dickhead. I guess technically he is only an "alleged" dickhead now, since he wasn't "really" convicted. "Authorities tracked down Michael Collins, and his son Teven, in Mexico and brought them back to Washington state to face charges. Both were convicted and sent to prison, but one of the crimes the older Collins was convicted of is attempted first degree felony murder. It is a nonexistent crime in the state of Washington. As a result, the Washington State Court of Appeals vacated the conviction."

I know that jb must have it, better ask him. It's like a bullshit detector, expert more focused.

The rest of us need to catch up. http://boingboing.net/2011/07/23/murdoch-detector-bro.html LOL

I hate when that happens.

You hit that area? Sweet, maybe you can share the whole gig with us. All kinds of new stuff happening up there. When I was up for the last trash pickup event: Chad, Mark and I cruised the area under Video Bluff and saw someone had been cleaning that part of the cliff off. They'd done a pretty good job at it too. I'd like to thank those souls that are doing the heavy lifting. thank you thank you thank you!!!! BTW, Chad says he thinks that he's seen the guys pulling all of the invasive English Ivy on the lower part of the North Side (freeway to cliff) and he swears it's 2 old guys on ATV's who show up, swill beer and pull ivy. I've never seen this but I am in awe at the massive amount of work they have put in if it's really just 2 guys. So maybe it's you and a crew or a full inmate crew would be more like it. The non-native Holly trees are getting sawn down as well and someone is also building a platform at the base of Silver Bullet. Lots of good activity. Nice to see folks get involved and pitch in. For myself, I noticed that some of the poison oak is growing back and it needs to be hit by spray by someone. Or pulled up by hand, whatever your preference is. As far as those routes being off limits, I don't think that is the case. A bunch of us had climbed a bunch of stuff in therein the 70s early 80's, and a few had rap points below the cliff tops. Once they put the houses in, interest waned with the English Ivy growth, but no one said "can't climb here"...as far as I know. I don't recall any routes being so obvious located in the Grotto, and if you are rapping behind the cross, might be a new route and that might in fact really be off limits. Take some tied webbing if you want to hit it, and mostly thank you thank you thank you!!!! for getting on the English Ivy.

BBBBBBUUUUZZZZ... nope.

Buckaroo, you don't know who G-spotters picture is?

That was a choice which SHE made Murray. Why blame others for ones personal choices and personal decisions?