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billcoe

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Everything posted by billcoe

  1. I only personally know 3 people who underwent similar surgeries and none were considered sucessful buy the people who got operated on. None. They all had pain as bad (in one case substantially worse) as previously.
  2. Jump in on a rescue or 2, ya get to drive all over hell up there. But ya usually are walking around and down on shoe leather (hopefully down) in true big-time shit weather. I know, late south side starts always were mentally tweaky too, where you'd see the same damn happy downhill skiers blow by you with huge smiles on their faces 10 times it seemed as your creaky legs worked hard and your lungs were huffing. I'd be thinking, how dumb is this, I could have jumped on the chair lift and been there already.
  3. billcoe

    [tr] Smith

    Cool! Uhhh, what time we eatin tonight Torg?
  4. Damn, take a cleansing breath or 2 and get yourself outside dude.
  5. This is called climbing now? I'm getting old fer sure.
  6. Best thread revival of the year Eggplant. BTW, a quick perusal of their names should have sorted this qestion out. Gore is something bad that happens when you take a bad fall. Bush is not suitable for rapping on, only peeing on: Thus - I can speak with assurance, they would both suck.
  7. Nah, but it's got onstar so he can just press a button and ask "Where am I". But to get out in the wilderness, like a real urban woodsman, you really should have ponied up and got the Escallade.
  8. I couln't get Ascentionist to load. Anyone else?That site working? PS, great Badger story Alpine K, those dogs aound like they f*ed around and finally got put down.
  9. Wow, I just got back but I woke up this morning thinking of this one and haven't stopped yet. At Smith, towards Monkey Face, I think it's King Kong (maybe Godzilla?) that has like 30-40 feet of unprotected climbing towards the top before you get to the single bolt on the route which is right at the crux, it's an old 1/4" Rawl stud with NO hanger. But it does have some old 1/2" webbing/tat on it. (there is, however, a hidden crack offroute to the left lower down which you can get a few small wireds into which probably makes the fall only 20-30 feet if the bolt pulls and your shit holds) You have to just clip the tat and go. Has that been replaced yet? Been a long while since I've been on that route. I think that route hardly ever is done because of it, I have NEVER seen a soul on it, ever, but if there was a real bolt/good pro there..... Thoughts on that one?
  10. Righteous stuff Tim, nice...thanks dude.
  11. Go big or go home eh?
  12. Interesting that this thread has MORE Views and MORE posts than the Nodder thread? !
  13. I'm wondering how many of the people replying have even seen the crag in question or been to Oregon (other than 2 trips to smith) at least once in the last 12 months. Dude shows up and asks a valid question and (mostly) gets bashed (with a few notable exceptions).
  14. Fine, I'll take the rest of the big bros, in fact with Josephs permission, if you want to ship them all at once to me, (or to him) we know each other, and can pick it up from the other easily. I called you too and left a voicemail.
  15. Damn Mark those are great pictures! Thanks for sharing em. I think I agree with MarkD about A grip here, but will note that I suspect that Danny and Steve (the F. Ascentionists) would probably be good, perhaps even happy, with a bolt. Steve (Strauch) still climbed for years after Danny (Gates) quit. One time I was out climbing with Steve somewhere and he says something like this: "about time someone finally put in a bolt on Golums Hang (N Face Broughtons). He told me that he "was surprised" that the fixed blade he'd driven up there had lasted so long. "How many people have fallen on that and it held over the years do ya think?" he asked me while laughing. (I had no clue). He said he didn't think it would hold his fall, and clearly he was surprised that hundreds more climbed the route sucessfully for many many years and just clipped the pin and went. ON Amphedimine GRip, imagine that FA on runout last 20-25 feet pre-cams, with loose rock all over everything, never been done before, cranked out of your head to the point that your muscles are tweeked (gripped), trying for the top and hoping it goes. Yeowza
  16. Yeah, whuhhh he said, well spoken. ______________________________________________________________ Opps, too late. _______________________________________________________________ That is correct: just double check the F*ken rulebook, page 181 paragraph 5 subsection 2. No - this is artificial arrogance, "pure arrogance" is showing up late for the party and deciding on your own to alter a route to make it easy for yourself because....well, just because you want to do it. Cause then its all about ME MEMEMEMEMEMEMEMEME me!
  17. Rolling stone has "broken" the real truth (maybe) on the JFK assination. CIA with LBJ's knowledge.
  18. I haven't done that route for so long I think I forgot it existed. So I have no opinion. On Karate, I think that is better left as is. It makes you think, especially as a leader, about protecting for the follower. There are precious few of this kind of route over there (Culls in space too), I'd be for leaving it as theres the history of the thing as well, despite the fact that it's a real strange hit follow. There are plenty of straight up routes over there, no need to straighten this one out - my opinion only. But as Kev says, it IS Smith after all:-)
  19. Sac-up ya pussy, just take the sharp pointy awl from yer Swiss Army knife and scrape the holy-bejejusus out from under there, then get a pair of pliers and hank the edges out till it bleeds and you've ripped off the toenail on the outside part so that gives you a week or 2 where the ingrown part doesn't hurt and yer good to go. Least thats what I've been doing. Shouldn't this be in the Pirate forum though?
  20. No worries, this group has all the delicate sensitivities of bricks thrown at a window.
  21. Dean: "Nasty fall there, whuh happen?" Me: "Pulled a loose block off at the top, it slammed down and broke my foot, I'm heading to the hospital". Dean "That sucks (giving some empathy and sympathy all at once), gimme a belay before ya go dude". Me: "Uhhh (at a loss) OK". Later, as I'm walking/hobbling out alone (trying to walk out) with my backpack and rope on my back, I'm thinking WTF?
  22. Dru must have got up to go pee, he missed it.
  23. _______________________________________________________ browser2230 Member #: 13821 Title: stranger Total Posts: 5 Registered on: 11 minutes 42 seconds ago ___________________________________________________________ Kev, I think he's gonna have more posts than you in about 2 hours.
  24. Always with the technicalitees.....sigh..... Update, there were 2 of us at LO (Ujohn and I), so we had the place to ourselves! Laps and laps and laps. I woke up at 4 am from muscle soreness Heres my point, if any of you other pussies really DO ever get out and really climb, vs just yammering on about it (like I do most of the time), AND if you go to LO, then take a drill, a wrench an anchor bolt, a sheep, a bottle of wine and a blow up doll. The center anchor on that little shit hole has had a chunk of rock bust off, and the entire length of that wedge anchor is visible and the whole thing wobbles. It won't pull out just yet, but like a tooth for a kid, it's a matter of time till the good bolt ferrie comes. The other anchor bolt has a loose nut. So clip one and bone voyage suckar. The one bolt looks good, but it should have another one in there. You can climb the few feet over to the "Pope Memorial" bolted anchor above the other "Dwayner Memorial" bolted crack and clip that for redundancy if you are concerned (we were and we did). Bring roundup for the poison oak on top eh? I would do this my self but might not make it out for some time. That and I'm very lazy and self centered.
  25. sure Bill, I'll be there. Me too!
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