billcoe

1 year ago revisited: I took the steps and braced back then, but now that this hard economic fall is upon us, I think I'm gonna like it even less that exactly 1 year ago when I predicted it. Anyone who hasn't jumped out the window, check in next year in October for the update when it's even worse than now.

No one will argue that I'd imagine.

You need a cheerier avatar. Go back to the Muppet. Jus' sayin'... Yeah dude, inhale already and get yer smile on:-)

Awww...shucks , now I guess I'm buying the beer for sure:-).

Ha ha! If I'm not right there pouring the beer - it's cause I'm chasing down Graham from Cilogears Big Wally donation that was going to get some engineering preview and demoing but got high centered on a bar stool in a basement I think , but I'll be there for sure. Things are going great, I was out in that spot in the woods solo last night and found the ice axe I've been tearing my basement up for 3 weeks looking for. I thought it was trash and walked over to pick it up. Woot! LL is 1945 NW Quimby Street, 7pm, bring lots of cash or checks.

David: we all feel your pain....any chance you can post some photos so we can keep an eye out for your stuff? I posted pics of my rack on RC.com mostly so that if this happened I could try and collect some insurance, but secondary is so that I could have some pics handy to post so people could see my stuff and maybe spy it on Craigslist. I once had 2 tool boxes stuff chock full of tools (and the value was shockingly much more than I was thinking off the top of my head once I'd written it all down) stolen from the back of my locked pickup truck that were replaced with a me paying the $500 deductible. Have you checked with your insurance folks?

You going to finally pony up the scratch for a TV that has an off button? What?

What kind of a climber are you that you'd rather work than climb? Nobody is going postal on anybody. There might be some folks who need to get their asses kicked though....but not Don. I suspect that I'd like to tie in with Dwayner. The loyalty he's inspired form Pope is a very good thing IMO, as it means the dude has a lot going, you just have to find it. That is, I suspect I'd like the guy once he finally STFU about the no bolt thing:-) I think his annual takeoff poster is fun and creative. However, about bolts he's like my F*ing mutts when they see a squirrel. They are Jack Russell's and they only know to kill small furry critters: it's in their genes and can't help themselves. It's sort of funny when it first starts, but it gets old quick: same with the dogs. They, like Don, make a hell of a racket on that subject they are mental about and have little apparent control over it, much like a small child wanting a cookie - but ya still love them once the barking finally ends. You can shorten up the length of time you have to endure it by yelling at em....but then ya feel a little bad. Don, if you get to PDX stop in the Kevin Rauch fundraiser at the Lucky Lab in NorthWest Portland at @7pm and say hi.

We'll see you all there TOMMORROW! I'd like to meet you Sossity, I've heard great things about this book from those who did early previews. Hopefully Tim Olsen shows as well and says hi, I had posted a thank you online for his assistance to you folks, but I'd like to do it in person. Yesterday was the day old friend Charles Reeves died from Pancreatic cancer before his time. Today is a gift, which is why they call it the Present. (From Jim Anglin) Tommorrow is the day the tribe meets to celebrate Kevin Rauch. C'yall there! Be on your best behavior:-)

Link

Anyone get this in the paper? What did you think and who is behind the Clarion Fund? They sent 28 million of what has been termed a "fear mongering propaganda DVD" to at least 70 newspapers in swing states to place at the doorstep of newspaper subscribers. Who the hell are these people really? Let them step into the light and face the scrutiny. Anyone know?

Ha ! You're very kind. But it does bring up an idea, Brayden, you might go find a gear whore for a partner:-) Then you can save your money for important things like beer, condoms, Hostess Cupcakes and pot and use their quadruples of everything and all their stuff.

Ha ha! True, but I think we were raised with the idea Royal Robbins postulated, that it was what was inside your head that kept you safe. in fact there are times people get a false sense of security with one and are less safe. I found myself the other day, huddling under my entire big wally pack on a hanging belay as my partner started the rap down above me, grateful I'd forgot my helmet, as I would have most likely felt safe with it on, and gotten whacked on the shoulders, arm or knee by one of the rocks he dislodged, instead I was 100% protected when I needed to be. I had one on out solo Sunday same area and slammed my head hard 2 or 3 times up into blind overhangs as I climbed up. That wouldn't have happened had it not been on as I would have seen it coming better. I know Joeseph and I DO wear helmets on occasion, thats how JH got so old *cough*cough* but we pick and choose for those times it's appropriate. Like belaying you on Menopause:-) ________________________________________________________________ If anyone is curious what Snake looks like, you can see the bolt with the chalked up holds there just to the right of the line I'm on (it was a natural line trad route squeeze job called "Before the Storm"). That is Snake to the right of that rope I believe. In fact, look just to the right of my body -check THAT BLOCK OUT! Whoahhhhh, (shaking in fear voluntarily excretes onto chair in fear). Was THAT the block Moira? I did Snake last year but don't remember if that's even on route. I sure as hell don't remotely remember seeing something that looked like that but there it is right next to me in the pic. I posted this earlier, but the route I'm on Jim kept asking, "don't you want to go rap it and knock that loose stuff off?" He asked me at least 3-4 times and everytime I said, "Nahh, more exciting just showing up and onsighting it ground up". Jim: "don't you want to go rap it and knock that loose stuff off?" Me: "Nah, I'll just try and avoid that stuff." Jim: "don't you want to go rap it and knock that loose stuff off?" Me: "Nah, more fun this way." Jim: "looks pretty loose, don't you want to go rap it and knock all that loose stuff off?" Me: "Nah, it's all good." Jim: "don't you want to go rap it and knock that loose stuff off?" Me: "Is it me or did we not already have this discussion:-)". We'd seen a massive amount of loose stuff on it, mostly 1/2 way up. I thought I'd get up there and see if could find a place to plug some gear and if I could then just dance around it to the right. Barely made it @ 20 feet up, not even close to the obvious massive killer loose crap above, and the minor, near-overlooked, loose stack of blocks my feet were on decided that was the time they would co-operate with gravity and they plunged with me on it. The left arm was cranked in good and it tried to stay, but my body wasn't willing. The resolution of that conflict left blood everywhere when both my legs impaled a stout branch as I dropped and the arm scrapped deep and down the crack (but held) too. Quietly we called it a day. Came back and cleaned it on rap. I ain't too proud. I suspect I didn't get it all, but I tried. Didn't notice Snake or see if there was loose stuff still remaining on it. I see it now in the pic just to my right.

I was looking for a picture and found this thread. Letsroll, how did the trail go? Time to go do the other side? BTW, I never did do the squeeze job "Squeezing the Dawg". I did get a drill though, but the line is still undone if anyone wants to jump on it:-)

Thanks for the eyewitness report and route confirmation Moira. Glad everyone is OK. That's one of Kevin Rauch's routes (with Brian Smith) I believe. As long as we're talkin big loose blocks at Ozone. Here's one for someone to go pry off. In between Screaming For Change and Afternoon Delight. It's right before Screaming For Change anchor off to the right, or if you do the 5.7 Afternoon Delight start (the next route to the right is Kung Fu) and bail to the Screaming anchors early instead of topping out you climb right over it and use it as a handhold or 2. It's about 2' long and quite the mudsill sized rock. I tried yanking it with my physical strength and it was merely a sad reminder of how old and weak I am. I think it wants to go, but it doesn't yet want to do it with just body weight. A person with a pry bar and a ground crew for spotting could work it off of there safely I believe. It may even have been yanked off already I haven't been to the zone for some time. Good call on the helmet thing reminder. Did you ever get that pink skateboarding helmet you were talking about?

What Rudy says is true, but you don't say if you have either say: doubled wired nuts or Metolius Mastercams from blue or Green through Orange or Aliens Green through Red. The small sizes of itty bitty cams can be real helpful if you have wired stoppers already and no small cams. Furthermore, the passive nutlike Trango/Lowe tricams can either suck real bad or be real awesome DEPENDING on where you like to climb. Asking around at your climbing spot may be the best advice I can give you.

Are we talkin about the largest 1 day drop in the stock market here? Apple dropped 22 bucks a share today....17.92% of the company valuation per the stock market disappeared .....wow! You all gonna give up on the internet? Cause that would make sense, that kind of drop. That and android. Anyway, 6.92% drop for the Dow today and larger for the S and P and Nasdaq. Not the largest percentage, but huge. Most of you folks got your wish and the 700 billion rescue package was (temporarily) rejected. Congrats. Probably don't mean squat in the grand scheme of things...... Take care all Bill

Well, that's OK whippler, you can still relearn it the right way later... Actually, it shocks me that Kevin can remember every nuance and detail of a climb a long time after hes done it, it's a very remarkable thing he does...definitely the dude should be called "Master Beta" or "Betamaster" or"Beta Max" or something like that, cause he's got a steel trap mind for route memory. Unlike moi, who was sending Bryan up for a second ascent and and forgot the rack, fortunately he ignored me and took the critical #3 after I said I couldn't remember if he needed it:-) Like after I'd led it several times. Ouch. Kevin is the reverse of that. It is truly amazing.

...but there were bolts there?.....

It must have gotten recalculated on the new IBM supercomputer. The mark of the Boeing?

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Great shots Mark! That last one where he's passing on a bolt and putting in an nut is still a very powerful composition despite being slightly fuzzed.

u2

Old skool!

I take it seriously enough to respond. I have a very conservative view of bolts. They should be (voluntarily) restricted and not used where ever and when ever possible. We part company otherwise with the extremism Pope and Don share. The belief of NO BOLTS anywhere that Don has on occasion espoused. This thread - for instance, was about letting folks know about route crowding issues, to give them a chance to go elsewhere and not ruin their plans, yet Don turned it to this bolt yellfest, for no apparent reason other than to stroke his ego apparently. Why not call the Mounties directly instead of just yammering on to folks who have nothing to do with the curriculum? Why not volunteer with the Mounties and teach your views one on one and actually do something positive?