billcoe

Gross stupidity? I don't know. I like Gordon, good guy. What Ivan said above rings true to me as well. It's special spot, with a long tradition of not having that kind of thing there. I know you told me that you were not ever going to do this yourself as you were so busy with kids and all, and were just argueing for it, but it seems to me there's better spots, close by yet very remote and have hardly a soul there, where a long fall on poor rock would be a serious endeavor, that are better for that than Beacon. Like these. Or find some others.

That's some cool shit Ivan. Kevin, Gordon retro bolted Waynes old line on the front thinking it was an FA. It was clearly out of bounds, right by the water fountain and damn near next to the "no climbing over there sign", the rangers gave him a ticket that although it was later not upheld in court, was $75 a bolt. I think he had 9 bolts on it that were all later erased. Do that math on a 300' arete with bolts 7 feet apart.

Although it doesn't sound like it up there, I sure hope so. _____________________________________________________________________ You led it and trailed a line?! Woot! You rule!

I heard Pink will be up from Colorado for this one! Say hi Andrew, don't be offended if I don't recognize you. I saw old friend Gary last night and my first words were..."you got old!". He say's "yeah, when did that happen?"...then I said as I rubbed my head "... well at least you still have all your hair"!

Won't happen, not the least of which is these people never admit mistakes:-) Same for Obama Biden, but that was spot on the money a good choice for Barak IMO. Nobody is changing horses in the middle of the stream. Even Honest Abe knows that, ask McClellan.

Good times, mostly it was about seeing lots of people I don't see much of or at all, like you Wayne. Thanks for the slide show! Thanks as well to John, Marcus and all the others like Pink Chalk for the hard work. Big props to Gary for letting the competitors rip his holds up free of charge and giving up the Portland Rock Gym to the event. He was real happy that you folks were doing such good work in the organizing and running it BTW. The first year comp, he retired those holds and gave them to a group of climber/soldiers stuck in Iraq who wanted to build a climbing wall. They were damn'ed appreciative and didn't mind a few tool marks at all. Don't know about comp 2 or 3. Take care all, see you Wednesday at the Lucky Lab in NW PDX for the Kevin Rauch/Ozone guidebook launch benefit!

I had heard you to say you were letting others try to free that route. You didn't say it about the other lines you had there, so they were of course left alone. If I'd known you'd felt otherwise there's no way we would have jumped on it. You weren't around for @ 3 months or so, and as I'm pretty sure I heard you say anyone want it have at it..... ...if you want the name to be Bill's Ladder or Bryans ladder I don't care and shouldn't be an issue with Bryan either he's a good dude, it shouldn't be something you feel bad on or upset about, we didn't know the name at that time and Bryan wanted to honor you. I'm not into stealing your projects if that's what you think, thought it was clear. If you think we did something bad I apologize, this is on me, not Bryan. If there is anything else you have reserved let me know and I'll stay off it forever or until you say otherwise. Bryan thought 10c, I thought 11a.

ha ha! You're working! Now who likes Duff's? Got a special.

So is this argument. But sure does make for good times on the interweb eh? No __________________________________________________________ Agreed. Annoying at best and damned dangerous at worst if the request results in a delay. Which is why I'd suggest the process of letting them know you are going to go replace that bolt and then go do it. It's the right thing to do. Does anyone need their email address? Let JH or me know.

No - bikes leave traces of rubber, an unnatural and manmade compound, on the road.

Yes it is Kevin. Old. The thing is JH has replaced most of the bolts there, and is keeping track of what got replaced and when it was replaced so that he has a database with that info in it for anyone who needs or wants that info 30 years from now. Furthermore, he's got the whole bolt replacement thing dialed in, it's grab a bag and go, he has it all so finely tuned and all the gear etc. That's why I suggested JH. If you want to volunteer then say so and step forward, didn't mean to slight you if that's what you are thinking. Just do it. BTW, Jim did a hell of a lot of work on that plan way back when, ask him about it sometime.

Jim Opdycke, Mike Jackson and others. I hear all this sh&t secondhand of course, but I think that's accurate.

Kevin, I didn't give you the full answer I was thinking, I'll do it later and add onto what Joseph just said in the dissertation above.

Dwight Yokum

Why JH? How many bolts have you replaced out there?

BTW, as this thread appears to have been victimized by a random and repetitive jackass DAWG derailment, before it goes to spray (ie, bolts are go, no, bolts are bad, ie: "Bolts are good..and you're an asshole" "bad...and you're an asshole too" "no you are. ..." "No-you!" "Thats what you are" "am not..." "am too..." ........I wanted to say this for all of us: THANKS FOR THE HEADS UP TOAST!

Hold on, I think my "give a shit what you say meter" may have just registered a tick........ Nope, carry on Don. ___________________________________________________________________ BTW, what Jon said goes for me too. Inert metal in stone does NO environmental harm. It's all the folks milling around on the ground that hurts the plants and wears the soil. You gonna start killing them off to improve the environment?

That one's not my route Farrgo: but I do have a Theron Moses made tuning fork that looks a bit too shiny if anyone wants or needs to borrow it. I would just let the park folks know you are going to replace a bolt due to safety concerns and then do it (ASAP if you're heading up there is my opinion). If anyone feels they want a real pro style bolt plugged in, touch base with JH and go do it together. I have hardware I'll gladly donate to the cause if anyone pleading poverty wants it or needs it, but I'm too busy elsewhere as I look at the coming snowfall (and hunting season too) about to close my spot in the hills to get there and do it.

Does that go for everybody? Everyone who knows me and is thinking of not coming due to poverty, please come and I'll make sure your thirst is quenched. So Yes.

It's rare, but you can. Case in point: The Long and Winding Road :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: Blasphemy! :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

Raconteurs, nice. Beatles right now.

Say hi and I'll buy your first pitcher. You can share it with Denali Dave. I'll be there.

The 3 cam unit, the very thing that Metolius makes to this day, was invented by an Oregonian who climbed a lot at Smith named Steve Byrne. Pretty good guy and an excellent climber. They were made underground for many years by Steve, because Jardines patent was still live. One the patent ended, Steve gave Doug, his friend, at Metolius, permission to make them. Later he started making them as well under his own label- Wired Bliss, after he'd moved to Az. Then he later expanded to 4 cam units as well. At least that's how I understand it to be, but I hadn't seen Steve since he had moved to Az, so most of this is all 3rd hand. I had friends who climbed with Steve a bit, and on occasion I'd get my grubby hands on one of Steve's "illegal" underground loaner TCU's for a route or 2. For back then, 80's, they were the shizz. _________________________________________________________________________ It may. For new bolts, the climbing management plan that climbers and rangers wrote down and agreed too, is that the Beacon rock climbing association needs to approve them in advance, or the park rangers.

Must be a pic of Bill C's rack closet, eh? Nah, my stuffs more disorganized and much more incomplete. However, interestingly enough, you're probably looking at some stuff in that pic Joseph has actually found and just outright bought, donated and shipped to Corsica for Stephan's Nut Museum.