billcoe

Say it ain't so Sean!

You guys must be kidding, those balls are probably worth a couple of hundred dollars.

Interesting: CIA report post minutes before on the NY Times. Link

Postscript: it was the zookeepers arm, AND it was sewed back on.

I know where Lances' secret place is. It's too far from here. Sure sounds like Shangri La the way they treat each other, probably stay that way till some of us showed up anyway.

ohhh if only that were true..... Maybe its cause ya changed your avatar pic?

Wasn't me

? Then how do you explain away the thousands of offensive based missiles China has been installing, adding too and still increasing in numbers on the straight across from Taiwan. Maybe they are not as smart as you?

Most normal people read the other peoples posts before they post. You appear continually are an exception to this rule perhaps just so you can hear yourself talk?

I think you could do Ritche, and it's timeless and classic. True slow dance songs. Oh Dona: heartbreaker and soooo perfect for that special slow dance. The Los Lobobs version is even better. [video:youtube]b6h5Z7hFxI4 Another Classic Ritche VAlens passion play: We Belong Together. [video:youtube]SPNcJhEYH0A My wife and I have a couple as well not quite as good: The one played at our wedding by my buddy Paul who could hit the 12 string as good as Paul Stookie. [video:youtube]8BCAw6ufCbU Live version of John Denvers Annies Song. The recorded version was better, but I didn't find it, LOL. [video:youtube]HkGS263lGsQ

I know someone who was really into Vietnam protests 40+ years ago. She was one of those really special people that you rarely meet: hearts as big as their brains. Competent climber and amazingly beautiful as well. She knew many of the prominent East Coasters into protesting... The Berrigan Brothers, Paul Stookey, etc etc. Before it was turned into the #1 hit of all the ages for all times or before it had been recorded, her friend Paul, who had written this song and was then playing in a band called Peter, Paul and Mary, played this for her and her husband to be at her wedding. Classic: [video:youtube]gPnQuzdgFXs I get chills.

And in the upper pic, the lil one below lookin up is thinking, "I wanna PAAAAAAAD!" ________________________________________________________________ More goats. "Meadowmates" in the Elkhorns last year. ____________________________________________________________________ Oh sure, another blame the goat story: Enumclaw Sweden "Swedish bestiality ring exposed Published: 11 Nov 08 15:32 CET Online: http://www.thelocal.se/15610/20081111/ A Swedish newspaper has exposed a network of self-proclaimed zoophiles who meet regularly in locations around the country to have sex with animals. The group, consisting of an estimated thirty people, is headed by a 45-year-old father of two, Expressen reports. The unmarried former managing director is also moderator of a large internet animal sex forum and has a number of dogs and horses on his farm in southern Sweden. Having infiltrated the network over a period of several months, Expressen eventually confronted the 45-year-old over his alleged mistreatment of animals. But the man was quick to defend his relations with a bitch he bought online from a city-dwelling family who said they wanted the dog to have a better life in the countryside. "Any of the times I did anything with her she was the one who backed into me and provoked it. She was in heat and made herself available. There were also times later when she didn't want to and then I backed out immediately," he told Expressen. During the time spent with members of the network, Expressen learned that the group regularly brought along a range of different animals to "sex meetings" at rented premises............" .......more "He has a goat and a couple of donkeys. We tried with a donkey but it didn't work. But we did have sex with the goat," one of the men told Expressen. " You can't make this stuff up:-)

No Dood, your left hoof HAS to go the the small knob or yewll blow the sequence and sketch off...

Well, I normally like it when my predictions come true proviing that there are always exceptions to the rule. It's now wildly popular. There have been wall to wall cars there lately. The Ozone guidebook helped with that part. Here's to hoping and keeping it open part!

Raindawg is currently in Egypt where he is directing an expedition in the Valley of the Kings, excavating, studying and conserving several tombs in the royal cemetery. (And doing some desert exploration as well). That's where he is and what he be doing. - Raindawg Coolest thing I've read on this site for quite some time! Good on you for getting something so world class important and interesting done. Like Bone, love to see pics if you get time later.

I call bullshit. You might examine the irrational attraction to power many politicians have. Try and explain to us how you plan to change human nature. I will try and spell it out again: it's about political freedom and control. END OF IMPORTANT POINT, please re -read that maybe 3 or 4 times since some of you seem to have trouble digesting and/or understanding it.

Mal con, one of my favorites too. During this meditation last night, the huge amount of people, the millions upon millions that have died directly and indirectly weighed heavy upon my thinking. (estimated 25 million died from an influenza that most likely started in a British army kitchen in France) Is it fair for me and my brood to be safe at the expense of an Iranian fathers son, who loves his children as much as I? No finality to this thinking...it's just out there.

On the 11th hour, of the 11th day, of the 11th month 90 years ago WWI ended. My Grandfather and namesake, William Coe, served as a Marine in the trenches of Belgium. Woodrow Wilson, the peace candidate, that low life lying sack of shit, that anyone has yet before or after determined a good reason for, choose to send US troops to the huge war and disaster already happening in Europe despite winning the Presidency on the pledge to keep us out of that very war. But my grandfather volunteered and did it thinking it was "The War to end all Wars" like it was pitched. So unimaginable and unspeakable horror was his...by his own choice. But he suffered in silence and did this to keep his son, my dad, William Coe, living in a safer world. It didn't work. A few short years later my dad also volunteered and chased the Germans all the way up the Rhine to Weisbaden somewhere. He never spoke a single word of this to his wife (my mother), who thought he was in England at an airbase and only learned of the march through Germany 40 some years after the fact as my father had passed away from recently found letters my dad sent home to his mother during the war. Despite the lack of imagination that runs concurrency through my family, ie, I'm William Coe as well, I guess someone came up with a name and that's what everyone is named, why reinvent the wheel.....my dad and my grandfather learned that this country was worth our everything. That we have no options, we are here and we are in this together. We must do our best and be active engaged citizens. Every damn drop of blood and sweat that got us here, most of it was wasted and for what? But still, here we are. Is there anything more important than our freedom and our lives? Tonight I'm going to stay up a bit later than normal, and I'm not a religious man, but at the 11th hour, of the 11th day, of the 11th month and as a reminder that 90 years ago WWI ended, I'm saying a prayer. A prayer that Obama and his folks have the strength and the smarts and can guide us through these rough times ahead and keep my son and daughter safe. I want to remember again that what is most important isn't that we all get rich and have nice new GM SUVs to drive, but that our country and our children stay safe. I'll be praying that our leadership will do the right things to stay safe and secure and free (and I don't even know what that is). I'm doing this for me, for my family, for those like Mike and Scott who have put it out there, and for you. I'd hope that you all take a moment tonight and reflect on what's truly important to you. Take care all

Following up now and pointing out a great change, check this amazing (good) shite out: Link Now THIS is real change! DAMN nice to see! Baby steps maybe, but it's a great start. Honesty and transparency was promised, good to see it happening. "WASHINGTON — Turning to campaign promises in which he pledged sweeping ethics restrictions, President-elect Barack Obama will bar lobbyists from helping to pay the costs of his transition to power or working for it in any area in which they have represented clients in the last year, his transition team said Tuesday. Mr. Obama’s aides indicated that they expected the rules to apply to his inauguration as well as the transition, but said they had yet to make a final decision on how the inauguration would be paid for. John D. Podesta, a co-chairman of the Obama transition, called the restraints “the strictest, the most far-reaching ethics rules of any transition team in history.” “If someone has lobbied during the past 12 months, they’re prohibited from working in the fields of policy on which they lobbied and will have to cease all lobbying activities during their work on the transition,” Mr. Podesta said, speaking to reporters in the first official briefing by the transition team." It goes on, check the link.

My post was not meant to be about apples, oranges or drugs. It appears that no one is paying attention.

Listen up bros. If you're not like Joseph and don't want to figure out the primo solo system and have been thinking of buying a Soloist or Silent Partner. Sad to say that it looks like you better do it now if you want one. Thought you'd better know asap before all available stocks are gone if you were sitting on the fence on this one. Link to Supertopo

Saw the KK missing thread and thought of Don. Dudes been gone for awhile. Would this not be a thrilling event of a lifetime for the good Dr Ryan? ...Perhaps? Link "SAQQARA, Egypt (AP) — Archaeologists have discovered a new pyramid under the sands of Saqqara, an ancient burial site that has yielded a string of unearthed pyramids in recent years but remains largely unexplored." more if you click the link........

Someone asked me a bolting question via PM, thought it may be better to post my answer for others who have similar questions. Please add information which I've obviously missed or correct those which I am wrong about. I do personally believe that bolts should be utilized as little as possible, but that's another discussion. Unless you folks go there of course. ___________________________________________________________ Good on ya finding new routes and new areas! It’s a great feeling. On the bolt question, given rock that’s not just loose shit, the 3/8 X 3- 3-3/4" stainless steel wedge anchors you mention would be fine. You mention the Hilti Kb3 bolt. Personally, I think buying on price makes sense as long you make absolutely sure they are ICC-ES approved and you'll be good to go. The construction industry standard (icc-es) has some strong critical checks and approvals much like the climbing CE rating and the Uiaa rating. If it doesn't have the construction rating pass on it. In the old days, almost all climbers used "Rawl bolts" because they were deemed the best (and easiest to install with the hand drilling equipment available) . The were the split shank construction bolt made by the Rawl corp. out of high alloy steel and had a shitload of problems relating to design, size and material. Powers web site link 1st issue was the size. They were ¼ diameter and either 1”, 1-1/4 or 1-1/2” long. Due to the design of the split shank, the holding power was not at the bottom of that short length, but closer to ¾ of the way down. All the strength was almost at the surface of the rock. 2nd issue is that they rusted quickly. The plating would get scraped at the exact location they relied on for their strength as you banged it in, being high alloy they rusted fast. 3rd, the split in the shank needed constriction to cause it to hold, as you tapped the anchor into the small hole, as it started to squeeze the split shank, the pressure would often break the rock at the top of the hole and thus blow out the hole. This occurred more frequently on Basalt than on Granite. At Smith, it was very problematical in the soft welded Tuff but they got used there as well, (along with some other types like the Star Nail-in (Star Dryvins) which used to dot the West Face of Monkey Face and a few other places. These little guys, when brand new, would hold up to 2000 lbs on their very best day in ideal conditions. You can check out the strength on the link above as the Rawl Corp was renamed Powers and they still make the little pups. Of course, in rock, conditions even on the same cliff can be hit and miss, let alone some poor pumped out dude in a near death state trying to hand drill a hole with a dull drill bit as his feet are greasing and smeared off. Yet this was the defacto standard and was widely used on most routes and for most anchors throughout the US on 90 percent of climbing routes on non-sandstone. You still run into these little workhorses today, standing up after 30-50 years. The West Face of Monkey 1/4"ers lasted @ 40 years and gradually loosened up till some unfortunate was rumored to have zippered 8 of them out. And even then, the other rumor was that the guys who put them in were taking turns both drinking from a pony keg of beer they hauled to the base and jugging the ropes to bang in some bolts. In soft rock with heavy climbing they still worked for many many years. Failures were remarquably rare elsewhere as well. When 3/8 bolts came into vogue. The length of them jumped immediately as well. Shear and tensile went up by a large factor, but most importantly, the holes were not being banged out and weakened during the installation process, and the strength was coming from close to the bottom of the length being used, unlike the split shank construction bolts. Link to wedge anchor strength Wedge anchors of 1-3/4 length were not uncommon as hand drilling was still in use, and longer than that was rare although there was a bird or 2 using 2” or 2-1/2 here or there in the desert or in weaker rock, but not often around here, and rarely in granite. With the use of roto-hammers, size and embodiment have gotten bigger and it matters less on the installation end. But if you look at the strength of a single 3/8 x 3-3/4 stainless wedge anchor, you will see in order to stress it to the point it will failure, the human body attached to the other end would have most likely not survived that force. I suspect that a 3” long anchor bolt is overkill for 99.5 percent of rock. If you want longer ones because you think the rock is fractured or weak, that’s not a bad idea, I've been installing 1/2 x 7" wedge anchors in a new cliff for instance. Look carefully at the location you are going to put the hole to make sure its not in a fracture plane or loose section. The drill should be perpendicular to the rock as well, so orient it square to the slope so that the nut sits flush. -Check the ASCA site for information, although there seems to be less info than before, it's full of great stuff yet. RC.com use to have a great thread started by RRRadam, who was an inspector in nuclear plants and other critical installations but it looks like he edited it. Might do a search there. Rockclimbing.com 3rd thing: adding to what’s been said above: - On the bolt question, given rock that’s not just loose shit, for hand drilling, the 3/8 X 2.25 stainless steel wedge anchors would be perhaps as good as anything you could find. I certainly would use them before the Powers 5 pc in Steel, and the Powers 5 pc in Stainless is way too expensive. The Powers 5 piece in steel will, I believe, be a nightmare in a few years for the brothers who follow us, as you cannot determine via a visual check, when they have turned to shit. All that rusting happens below the surface. Hand drilling in granite though, whew-@ half an hour depending on how bad your forearms are pumping. However, it was brought to my attention by Mark Deffenbach that any dumbass climber can easily over torque and thus weaken a 3/8" diameter wedge anchor on a brand new installation. To do it right, a torque wrench should be used to install wedge anchors and the Mfg installation instructions and materials consulted for proper torque, or at least learn what 20-28 foot# of torque feels like with your box end wrench to "calibrate" your arms on a 6-8" box end wrench. So as such, if you don't have a torque wrench, per Mark, 1/2" diameter should be utilized to avoid the potential to over torque and thus weaken the bolt on the installation. I have never heard of anyone installing a 1/2 bolt by hand though, and never heard of a 3/8" bolt ever failing. Ever. I bet it's happened someplace. For hand drilling don't try to bite it all off at once. A sharp bit and a good hammer will get you far along as will strong forearms. Tap tap tap twist tap tap tap twist Tap tap tap twist tap tap tap twist, get a rhythm and let the rebound of the drill do the work. Don't tap too much before twisting, you'll feel it. If you are way out on lead pissing your pants, a light sling can be put over the drillbit right where it is next to the wall once the bit starts to get some depth, to relieve your aching calves and tendons. Don't weight it too much as a snapped drill bit would suck and that use to happen with the 1/4"ers on occasion, it's for supplementary assistance only until you get the hole down where you can put the wedge anchor in. If you are on anything but a nice stance, you'll be peeing your pants for sure, it's a very uncomfortable and muscle aching feeling. Very insecure. When the hole is deep enough, add a few more hammers blows to make it deeper than needed to make sure. Inserting the bolt upside down will sort of work, but better yet is to put some tape on your drill bit when you are safe at home watching the Flintstones to mark how far you need to go based on your bolt length. I have put in bolts without blowing the dust out of the hole, the twisting motion of the bit will clear the hole, butbest to take a McDonalds straw and blow the hole out. Better yet, take a length of plastic tubing and use it instead and you will be further away from the rock when the dust poofs out at ya. They make brushes as well, and using both the brush, the air hose and the torque wrench will pretty much guarantee a perfect install as long as your hole is deep enough. You should have already put the nut and the hanger on so the nut is flush with the top of the anchor stud, then slowly tap in the bolt until it is flush. Slamming the bolt in may be what causes spinners on clean holes and it causes rock dust to slick up the insides again. Some brands are more susceptible to this. Believe me, you don't want to do a spinner when you're at a crux or planning on rapping on it! Tap it in then set it by wrenching it to the recommended torque and you're done baby! Clip that puppy and hang like the crybaby motherfucker you feel like......err, wait, I don't know where that came from, I mean clip and send, that’s it, clip and SEND BABY! (Note to self: No hanging damnit, no crying damnit, no peeing the pants.... again.... damnit.) A heavy hammer is nicer than a light hammer, the Kong Eagle is one of the best for this, they make 2 versions the heavy one rules. A5 if you can find one without mortgaging your left nut, a Forrest wall hammer, or Black Diamond are all almost as good. Stay away from some of the real light European hammers (Bonati, Salewa) which are really designed to be carried up easy 3000' faces in the alps to just reset a piton or 2. You'll be working your ass off to get a hole drilled with one of them and wacking in a 3/8" bolt is too much work as well. If you want to save some money, borrow your granddads ball-peen hammer, drill a hole in the handle the thread some cord so you don't drop it and you're good to go. Always use stainless steel wedge anchors too. Even in Eastern Washington and Oregon. Seriously, otherwise, someone is going to have to replace it, and you can't get the 5 pc out within a few years in western Oregon with a wrench cause the shit rust and weld the bolt to the threaded wedge insert inside. You wind up snapping the head off and then you have a grade 5 bolt which you ain't drilling out easily bubba, so you have to put the next STAINLESS bolt next to the snapped off 5 pc and cover the shithole with 2 part epoxy. The lifetime of the 3/8 x 1-3/4 I was handrilling in the real wet part of Oregon have all lasted at least 30 years, and although I think they have all been replaced with stainless recently, they were all holding up great, but showing some visual rusting. With that as a backdrop, the lifetime on 304 stainless in a non-marine environment must be well over 50 years somewhere, and the 316 easily 100 years. No one knows yet! If you are going to be anywhere near the coast, seriously consider 316 SS as the minimum, and put on a tight rubber washer first, so that it is under the flatwasher and nut assembly. That’s where stress corrosion cracks happen. Or best yet, especially in Limestone near the ocean which has its own corrosion issues, the insanely expensive Ushba Tortuga Titanium glue ins. regards to all bill

Wicked logic. I was out walking in the woods yesterday and came upon a field of assault rifles just growing out of the ground. And then I heard about this guy on my street who was making handguns in his bathtub. I don't know what you mean? Are you saying that all the drugs that use to come through the current airtight 100% terrorist proof net at all of our borders say....from Afghanistan (Heroin and opium), and Columbia/Peru (Cocaine), and SE Asia (Thai stick and Hash) is no longer getting through? I hadn't heard that Heroin, Cocaine and Hash were no longer available and do not think you are correct if that is what you are positing. We, the taxpayers, have spent a fortune both locking down the borders and locking up every individual who damn near nearly mentions the word "Drugs", and yet, to me and perhaps everyone but you: it appears nothing has changed in the last 30 years except the amount to resources which the authorities devote in time and money to the subject, and the huge amount of people locked up. 1 in 100 Americans are currently behind bars, most for drug related charges. So I don't know what you are saying? What wicked logic are you talking about, what does that mean? As a further backdrop please keep in mind Jordop, that both of the largest terrorist attacks (in terms of innocent deaths) in the country were conducted by non-gun devices. (box cutters and fertilizer). So effectively, banning any weapons or larger capacity magazines will do is reduce the average honest citizens capacity to be armed. Furthermore, it sets a political agenda whereby through creeping incrementalism, further encroachments of the government on our rights can occur. In they end, the politicians will have the guns via the police and military (like in 3rd world juntas), and the criminals will still have the guns, and the people who SHOULD have the guns, to maintain and balance the political power - IE THE PEOPLE, you, me and others we know: will get the shaft.

Link Thinking of John, Bryan and Marcus for those warm soggy November days while you are waiting for the ice to form around here:-)