snoboy

Down fern, down! Just 'coz you dad's machinist. Seriously though carolyn, it's probably not that hard. Fern, I will split the cost of that hex with you. Go carolyn, go!

Tainted HC!!!

It is. I did it a couple years ago, and even uncleaned it was a blast. 2 You might have to tunnel through a bit of bush to find the start of it though... One of my favourite 5.8 pitches in Squamish is on JW. The "5.10" start is burly, but frenchable. Eagle's Domain is the 2p 5.8 start to Birds of Prey, also at the Squaw. The best part of that route in my opinion. If you are feeling ambitious and strong after all this Squamish climbing, then you must do Peasant's Route, and the extension pitches. Drop in to Valhalla Pure and they will have a topo of that. Or ask real nice and I will scan one and post it here. In the Smoke Bluffs, do the connection. It can be busy though, so try this as an alternate: Old Age->Sparky's Crack->Wonderland. This is purely on someone else's reccomendation, but I trust him. If you want to pass a party on Mosquito (classic start to the connection) then don't miss Sphinxter Quits. Merci Me is a blast too, then if you've got a ropegun, go on to the top of the Pillar and rap off. If you are doing anything on the South Apron, get there by climbing the Bottom Line. Excellent slab route. then do Banana Peel, Boomstick Crack, and the Buttress for the "B-Line." Hvae fun and drink at the Brew Pub.

CAMP used to make BD knockoffs, that were slingable. I think they took fatter cord. The walls were a bit thicker, hence heavy. We had some in stock at the Valhalla store in Squamish last time I looked (last fall) I can look tommorow if any one really wants them.

therefore SPRAY is AID and... Splecial for Muffy...

To the best of my knowledge (2nd hand from friend who was there) rope handling was the issue.

May I ask, dru, how did you come across this formerly secret info?

[edit] I have never been to Index[/edit] I am a bit of a tree hugger, and I think most living things are sacred, but I was out killing Vine Maples at the crags here last w/e. I say don't log the shit out of it, but some selctive pruning can be good. I convinced my friend not to take down a couple of trees, and I went back and limbed them up with my pole pruner later. Most people won't even notice if you do a nice clean job. Oh, maybe we shouldn't take out any trees. No moss or ferns either. And of course we shouldn't drive out to Index or Squamish either, coz that would be bad for the plants too. Get over it, climbing is not ecofriendly. Just try to minimize the impact you have, coz climbing in a dustbowl sux. I would rather see on area extensively developed and a lot of wild areas than a whole bunch of half assed crags here and there. Rather someone like Kurt out there doing it than some hack who leaves a mess.

I may be mistaken, but I believe copyright is owned by the creator of a picture, or other work, simply by the act of creation... you don't need to "copyright it" to own copyright. And just coz others go to these places doesn't mean they took pictures. A bit of attitude methinks.

It could always go in the "Climber's Board." Oh yeah it's there already...

A couple good friends of mine were at the accident. No news from them as I didn't feel like talking about it if they didn't want to. One of them was also first on the scene at Ben DeMenech's death a while back. I feel for him. Skip - In case you don't know, Exasperator doesn't really hook up to the Grand, so here's hoping it wasn't your buddy.

"Failing upwards" I believe that is called.

MEC has cheap glasses with good optics. Lots of sizes and shapes too.

This might sound a bit hokey, carolyn, but I have a little thing I keep in the back of my head to help me make this decision. It's something Peter Croft said at a slide show when someone asked him the same question about soloing. Ask yourself if you are having fun. If you are not having fun, then it's time to go home. Obviously this is highly dependent on your defintion of fun. It works for me though. I can try and give you more insight into what I mean if this sounds like a bunch of mumbo jumbo. on the leading.

I think this web page gives a good plan...

CBC has a picture, but it's not great.

Just tell us where it is. Someone will go get it. There are very few cams that are really stuck. I have gotten out every stuck cam I ever found. Pulling it sideways is a good tip too. I like the spit idea though...

Prusik, and/or a garta hitch on a releasable chumk of cord.

I doubt it will keep the sleds out, maybe early season, but after that??? Bummer really, it means yet another nice day trip is gone.

be creative. Nothing like the free exchange of ideas...

Go granny, go!

Great tips, thanks guys, especially retrosaurus. I wish I had known this weekend, as there are a few ugly new scars out there, that may not have been neccesary. Retro - Do you find it neccesary to go up to a 1/2" bolt after this treatment? It sounds like it would be pretty abusive to the hole.

you can do it yourself for like 17cents...they are robbing you blind. Oh yeah? How? I can do most cams, but Aliens are a bit tricky, no?

I think Timmay fixed it.

I don't have a problem getting the 1/4" ones out, a funkness usually does the job quickly. The 3/8 wedge bolts that are common here are a problem though. There are a few non stainless ones left from the 80's that are probably still safe, but they are starting to look bad. Usually we just break them off and drill a new hole nearby. I would like to pull them and redrill to 1/2" ideally. Any ideas on getting them out?