snoboy

Then maybe it's time to think about rappelling... Yes, I agree that it would be a good way to lower an injured climber/leader. But I still stand by my assertion that a lot of people would have no idea how to do it properly.

I think all these ideas about using prussics and stuff to effect a transfer are actually quite misguided. Simple is better, and simple is safer IMO. What I do in a case like this is simply to use two belay devices. Lower until the knot is jammed on the first device, then get climber to unweight rope momentarily while I grab the other rope, and pop the 1st device off. Then climber weights rope again, and lower away. With communication and preplanning this is a very simple and safe system. I bet that a lot of people don't even know the proper way to set up a weight transfer with tied off munters and all that jazz. Not to mention that it could turn into a bit of a clusterf%^&k on your harness. As to the accident, I have really no idea what happened, not having been there, and so have no comments on what went wrong.

Don't show your license as ID...

Dude, she's following her dreams, it's just a truck... SO NOT SUK!!, It

Smart dogs... But then wouldn't the threat be a little reduced and the need to shoot the guy three more times be possibly elimanted??? Ahh, armchair 1/4-backing, love it.

Hmm, so a guy is "rushing at you with three rabid dogs"... you choose to shoot the guy??? The only person around who might have some control of the dogs??? WTF?

Yawn... oh was somebody saying something new? Oh, OK, didn't think so.

"Never clip in to the rap anchor if there is any other possible way down... if no other way down, clip in, better to die quickly, then suffer" Bastardization of a Twightism.

I did not choose my avatar pic, it chose me. As for my name, well, it seemed fitting.

Shouldn't that be "happy shoeping?"

Did you even look at OW's link??

read = I suck, and I have a good justification for it. But I am having fun anyways. Nothing wrong with that.

Yup, no PB in Canada. I pick it up when I come down to the states.

allergies... peanut butter... therefore no pb at school for the sake of little johnny who might die... Try living in Utah... Try living in B.C. No shit!

For some reason, even though corn season is supposed to be summer time, I always find the yummiest corn is this time of year.

I gotta do my laundry.

You are so suck End of discussion.

Yes, it does... looked pretty good. The Habrich Spur is not too aldery either.

Then you should give it to the grrrl.

I don't think you could keep the guy off the ground if he fell, (DUH!) but I think good spotter could do a couple of things that might help the guy out. 1 - Give him a nudge as he's falling to make sure he lands on the pads. 2 - keep him from cracking his head open...

Wow, somone's still carryin a grudge...

Climb: Sky Pilot Mtn-West Butt Date of Climb: 5/23/2004 Trip Report: I made it up this route a couple of years ago ( See TR ) after a couple of attempts, and had thought to myself that it would be the perfect first alpine outing for a newbie. Well the long weekend was here, and my friends wanted to go do something. The original plans for a MTB ride had somehow dissolved, and I racked my brains for a good alternative. My first thought, Tricouni, was liable to be overrun with drunk snowmobilers, so I figured Sky Pilot would be a good alternate, and as the gate had recently opened, it would not be an epic slog. The cast of characters: [all photos courtesy of this ^ guy] That's me, hiding from the paparazzi. One of the washouts low on the Shannon Creek Branch: A late start had us walking up the perfectly good, but innaccesible road in the hot afternoon sun. They say it was raining in WA that w/e. We camped in a spot with a so-so view. That's Habrich in the background for anyone who is wondering... That evening I went looking for running water, and ended up kicking steps to the top of the bowl/base of the "Stadium Glacier." Just as well because it froze up pretty nicely that night. Next morning we got a happy alpine start ("I'm in the alpine, I'm starting" - who said it??) and headed up here: Last photo is a pic of the "fourth class step" mentioned in the guidebook. The only problem is that there is a 3rd class way around it just to the left, and it is marked in the wrong place in the photo topo. [topo from Alpine Select, McLane, 2001] We went the hard way because it was easier to manage the rope. To make a long story short, we didn't go much further than this, but AGTWHBA, and I got a blister on the hike out... Gear Notes: 50mx9mm, 3 cams, piolets Approach Notes: The Shannon Creek spur is getting less and less driveable each year. This is due to a combination of factors. The FS has actively dissuaded peeps from driving past 9km from Hwy 99, and last winters rains have been instrumental in making the lower part of the road a lot rougher. If you have a HC 4WD, you will still be able to get to the FS blockade at 9 km. The Unimog got us over the blockade, but now you are only able to drive to just past the point that the kids drove off the cliff 10 years ago (for those who know the road.) The road is also gated in the winter (opened May 21 this year.)

Dru giving advice on skis... never thought I'd see the day. Yeah, I'd go in Cerise too, I dunno why anyone would go in via the lakes, unless they wanted to see the lakes, but it sounds like you want to climb.

I'll be here, unless I am somewhere else...

You can get them done in Squamish too, BD or Wild Country cams. Nothing custom though, other than length...