Toast

I think the main value I got out of this exercise was hands on experience putting these systems together. Yes, ETO and escaping the belay are essential skills but this class was about two steps beyond that and assumed you already had that knowledge. It was conducted by Everett and Tacoma Mountain Rescue... real folks that come and haul our asses out when the hit fits the san Earlier, I'd querried whether anybody actually practices this stuff. the vocal few who've chimed in on this thread I'm sure have (and hopefully do,) but I'd be willing to bet that many haven't

Check out Keegan, dude. He's demoing the frog move as you would see him if he were facing the rock

One thing about the book, and chucK mentions this as well, if you're free hanging, attaching one's prusik directly to one's harness leaves you really tippy. Rigging up a quick chest harness (especially with a fixed length of webbing between the harness and the biner at your chest) makes all the difference in the world. Lammy didn't want to touch this one, huh? Seriously, where is the guy? Haven't seen him in a while.

So, I'm about to take a self rescue clinic tomorrow, and I'm trying to get up to speed on systems to ascend a rope. Etriers and the Texas Prusik comes to mind, but who ever carries these things in their back pocket when they're out to free climb on rock... nobody is my guess. My premise is I need to work with what I'd typically have slung on my harness... a few biners, some slings and maybe a cordelette. David Fasulo's book on the topic shows a few methods... as simple as a few wraps around one's foot and weighted on up to prusiks and Garda Hitch as an alpine clutch. If push came to shove and you had to ascend the rope, what would you do? Have any of you practiced this? Do you have any tips to offer? Lambone, you've been awful quiet lately... take the bait

I thought this was a hoax at first, but it's real. That's funnier'n shit.

I missed PC too. I'll be there.

I had a friend who used to refer to his wife as Her Fullness.

Okay, that's it... My stated Enemy is Shultzy, now

Tim/Jon How about we use the calendar function to post warnings about large class field trips? If somebody's really concerned, they can check the schedule and see if there's supposed to be any big groups at the crags they're heading to. I know this wouldn't work for all climbs, but it could work for class field trips from the Seattle Mountaineers, Everett Mountaineers, WAC, UWCC, Bolps, SAR... and any class with a dozen people or more. Just a thought.

I can't play next weekend

I can't speak for anybody else, but I generally try to pick up my share of trash and then some... I've been involved with the Everett Mountaineers for several years. On the outings I've gone on, we've been extremely contientious (almost to the point of being anal) about picking up after ourselves. If there is a problem and you do snap a picture (or capture the name scrawled upon the helmet,) let me know and I'll take care of that problem personally. Litter sucks

After wading through a ton of CRAP, my main man came up with TechWeenie. Check it out.

BoAlps Intermediate will be out in Icicle this weekend. Everett Mountain Rescue is running a self rescue clinic in conjunction with them on Saturday.

Do you mean the Wedgewood Broiler (not to be confused with the Wedgewood Ale House.) The Broiler is an awesome place for a Pup Club. I'm guessing the separate room is their cocktail lounge. I can't make it this week, but I like this place.

Burrrrrrrrr

Last fall there was some discussion about the Tree Route on Eight Mile Butress. I can't find it in Search. How many pitches? If I remember correctly, it's pretty moderate, near endless, chossy and easy to bail at any point. correct? Unfortunately, I don't have the Leavenworth guide. Any beta would be helpful. Thanks in advance.

Try out the new Calexico disc, so good. Also I'm all over the new Stephen Malkmus and the Jicks.

I'm wit Minx

Touche

Well in the meantime... somebody a while back had mentioned something about bowling as an all ages pub club diversion. I asked the manager over at Sunset Bowl about intrest. Before I knew it, she handed me coupons for twenty free games. I think if we ask, they'll work out something for a happy hour price on beer (happy hour is normally 3-7.) Any interest?

Just tune into the Pub Club thread at the beginning of the week and be ready to on Tuesday.

Before everybody rushes off to try and explain Fall Factor see this. Every time I ask this question, I get somebody rushing to explain what FF is. I understand the concept, but I don't understand why it's relevant. Let me rephrase that... Seems to me, what's most relevant is shock force. Let me draw out an example. I'm on a short leash, 6". I stretch to place an omni, I slip, I fall 12". Fall factor = 2 in this case. Shock force, modest, maybe 2 Kn. That's enough to rattle me, maybe throw out a bad back or induce a case of whiplash. Now, a more extreme example, I lead 10' up, slip, and fall 20'. Fall factor = 2. As the Thai say, same, same... but different. This time, the shock force is significantly higher, maybe 9 kN. That's enough force to break gear or possibly hurt myself. I'm not trying to discount the importance of understanding FF, but it seems to me the thing I should be most concerned about is shock force. That's a tangible number that's gonna tell me if I can really hurt myself. Am I missing something here?