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Posts
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Everything posted by pu
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Day trip. S Face Prussik. E Face Lexington. Paisano/Burgundy. NW corner NEWS. Many options. PM me. I'd be coming from the east side so probably a trailhead rendezvous. Joe
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PM re Camalot
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Trip: Chimney Rock - Sancho's Date: 7/25/2009 Trip Report: Did Sancho's with papa Zach aka "Bigbro". Only one other person climbing yesterday....on a saturday in july. What's up with that. For that matter there have only been about a half dozen parties up there this entire summer. Very weird. Anyway, Sancho's My second time up this route. It is 5.9 and climbs the left buttress of the west rappel chimney route. It is in good shape. I had a #4 camalot and a #4 friend. The friend was too small for the crux pitch and the camalot was almost tipped out. If you are not comfortable running it out you should bring something a touch larger than the 4 camalot. Otherwise, great climbing and a nice day. Minimal bugs until the afternoon when it began to heat up. So, take the bug spray. Gear Notes: a number 4 camalot and something a little larger.
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Trip: St Paul - Northeast Arete Date: 7/2/2009 Trip Report: I'm on the tail end of my first summer vacation and I wanted to go do something a touch different. I first saw this arete after scrambling Rock Peak and St Paul peak in 03'. Next thing I knew there was a book out and a route description, sweet. This will not be a blow by blow TR. However, there are some things that I noticed that may be of use to you/your team when you venture out to do this puppy. If you own a short wheelbase passenger car you could make it to the trailhead with some very patient driving. Tires that are at the beginning of their life cycle and a spare with air in it would be a good choice before venturing up the road to cliff lake. As of yesterday you could drive to within .25 miles of the trailhead. The approach to the saddle between Rock and St Paul takes about an hour. I brought rope for the Rappel off the notch, just not enough. A 50m single would probably do it but I had a 20m capability. However, I did manage to make it into the East Face of St Paul by way of 3rd/4th class scrambling. If you had done a nice flat contour from Cliff lake you would intersect the ridge near a point where a fairly wide ledge cuts across the East Face of St Paul. Right now it is covered in snow, ice axe/self arrest pole would've been nice. The ledge eventually peters out in a touch of 4th class downclimbing. This section of rock was slick due to runoff. It would likely be dry in August or later. Thaddeus Laird's route description is accurate and easy to use. The rock climbing on the arete is fairly straight forward. Typical of most alpine routes, don't get hung up on finding the exact features the author describes. I found that when I was confused I chose the line up that looked the best and was near the crest. The crux pitch, pitch 3, is interesting and can be climbed in mountain boots and looked like it would protect well. I chose rock shoes for the security. Overall, it took me a couple hours to get up this thing. Pitching it out would take most of the day. If you are looking for a long rock climb that is clean and every pitch is something that you would climb if you encountered it at the local crag, then you best move over a drainage and climb Ojibway. St Paul is an alpine climb, in an excellent position, with spectacular views, and it has all of the associated route finding challenges and terrain variations that make alpine climbing fun. The crowds will be at Cliff lake sunning themselves. You'll likely be the only one on this route. Gear Notes: Extra slings for tie offs. Single set of nuts and friends would be plenty.
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Dude, total bull shit. Unfortunately I sort of did a clearance of my old stuff a while back so I don't have much extra. However, I could start you off with a harness right away if you need one. Let me know. What's your waist size? Joe
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Did the sunshine route on 06/26. Only one other party. Tilly Jane approach adds about 1.5 hours.
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tilly jane trailhead
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You get on Cannon right at the trailhead. From the parking lot follow the road around to the east and then xc up the old burn.
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Looking for a partner to swing leads. I've been up 3 pitches. Jonesing to finish it. I'm coming from the east side. Meet you at Index? Joe
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Thanks for the beta guys.
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Hey you folks who love montana. aka bug, powderhound, freih, etc...is the second weekend of may late enough to comfortably camp and climb at the Humbugs? Is there a water supply anywhere near the wedge? Thanks, Joe
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Anyone interested in some rock climbing tomorrow? Trad or Sport, pretty much any grade. Pm or Call. 208/755/9008 Joe
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Alright, I'll send the 6 best. Check is fine. $12 total would probably cover it. Joe Lind 621 E Indiana Ave Apt A Coeur d'Alene, ID 83814 Your shipping address?
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All wire biners sold: Thanks Powderhound. NEW PRICES..... MAMMUT NEW AGE $75 MAMMUT WOMEN'S SOFT SHELL $40 SCARPA TURBO'S $20 ALL OTHER BINERS $1.50 EACH. THAT'S CHEAPER THAN BUYING SCREW LINKS FOR BAILING!!!!! OR Make me some offers. I would be interested in trading for a Yates Rocker. Thanks Joe
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Mammut New Age Soft Shell Size Large $100 obo Mammut Women's Soft Shell Size Small $60 obo Mammut Snow Cross Gloves Size Large in good shape $10 Scarpa Turbo's 38.5 $30, Saltic Garnets women's 7.5 $20. All rock shoes are in good shape with lots of rubber left. DMM Wires $3 each. All other biners $2 Each. Make me some offers folks... Thanks, Joe
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Arden, Do you know Brad Gilbert? He is a FS employee in CDA. Bob Loomis would have his number. Either way, I think Jim works for the FS in CDA because I'm pretty sure Brad has mentioned him to me before. Good Luck Joe
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Redline Monocog Size 17" 26"Wheels. About 6 years old. Upgrades include Truvativ Stylo SS 175mm OB Bearing cranks. Kelly Custom True Temper Fork. New Chain and ACS Freewheel. I put in about 20 days a year on this machine. I greased the hubs and headset every year. Asking $300. Bicycle shipping is like $60. So if you live in the PNW I would meet you halfway for delivery. Joe
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partner found
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Looking for an experienced partner for either of these routes. Anyone???? thanks, Joe
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Raichle 90 degree EXP GTX Mens US 11 or UK 10. These are comparible to the La Sportiva Nepal Top. This is a Gore tex boot. Good and stiff for frontpointing. In great shape. $100 and I will cover ground shipping in the US. Thanks, Joe
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Pants are sold. What's wrong with the jacket folks? Does it have the Plague? It's $50 and like new. Joe
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Men's size 25 (34" waist 30" inseam) Castor pants. Schoeller WB formula fabric. IE waterproof/breathable/stretchy. Each pant leg has a very small hole just above the scuff guard (pons). $50 Mens's Large New Age Jacket. Like new. Schoeller Dryskin Extreme. $50 Buyer pays shipping from Idaho. Checks please. Thanks, Joe
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Looking for a Ice partner for the listed dates. PM me. Joe