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I have a recurring problem with bicep cramps during endurance climbing efforts. I drink more water than most of my partners and my caffeine intake is not outrageous. Lately I have been using some little gatorade packets in my water but I still seem to cramp. It usually happens only on the longer days. Those of 10 hours or more in duration. Any suggestions? Thanks, Joe

Tried to do AB in July. Want to do it badly. Day trip preferred. I am available August 16-18. Let me know if you want to go get it. Joe

Road is clear to trailhead. Minimal snow walking on the roothaan ridge. Plenty of snow below the faces. Pons and Axe not needed.

Some clarification needed. We attempted to go straight up from the first CH belay via the fat crack. However, there is a 1 ton loose flake that was moving a bit and made me pucker. So instead we traversed a couple feet right under the triangle roof and went up a 1/2 inch crack via aid for 20' and were then able to free our way back into the fatty. It goes free from there. A competant party could probably do this without aiders. I frenched on follow. However a single aider for the leader is handy. On another note, I would like to say that Jess and I appreciate the encouragement. Jess has also had his first hit on the crack pipe and discovered the addiction of FA's. Joe .

Added a couple new pitches to Chimney Rock yesterday with Jess Roskelley. From the top of the first belay on Cooper Hiser there is an large OW crack that runs up for a 100'. I've been eyeballing it for years and finally had to do it. Details.... Get to the top of the first pitch of CH however you like. From the belay skirt the small roof on the right and follow the thin crack for about 20'. We aided this. There are two fixed lost arrows now. One right above the belay and one at the top of the aid. Jess started free climbing at the second LA. He went for about 70' up 5" crack with decent gear and awkward moves. When the crack widens to about 8" Jess placed a KB on the right. OW technique and a 6 camalot got him through the difficulties ahead. This pitch was probably about 5.9. and A1. Belay on large blocky ledge. Next pitch I encountered a flared hand crack,5.10. Go straight up then dogleg right and back left. After about 50' you will end up on the old CH finish. We decided to call it Expanding Horizons 5.10 A1. I'm sure someone could free the first 20' but it is too much for me right now. Go Get It. Gear 00 TCU to 5 and 6 Camalot.

My partner and I did the Stanley Burgner as a linkup with the Serpentine on 07/18. I have both of your cams. PM me an address and I will ship them to you. Joe

Anyone for a trip up the Lion Tamer on July 25th? Day trip. I'll drive. Joe

Thanks.

thanks

Great looking route. Where did you find the topo? Linky? Thanks Joe

Nice work. I have been dying to get up there and it just hasn't worked out. Super Stoked!! Joe

Which direction does the upper town wall face? Is it East. When does it get shade? Thanks, Joe

Anyone up for doing two chill routes on SCW on June 6 or 7 like Outer Space, Orbit, or MJD? Have rack and happy to lead any or all pitches. Would be psyched to swing leads too. Joe

Anyone got a #6 C4 they want to get rid of?

Who's up for some rock climbing on 5/6 or 5/7. Prefer Trad but sport OK too. Looking to do a bunch of routes. Anyone motivated?

The Machine is still available.

I prefer a single rope/tag line whenever possible because it makes rope management much simpler. I don't break the tag line out until it is time to rap. Also, skinny ropes love to tangle with themselves and everyone else. My tag line is a 7mm x 70M PMI. Cost me about $85 at Mountain Gear.

Castle would be fun. The desert is about an hour fifteen shorter. Thanks though.

Weather looks awesome. Need a partner for one of the above days. Joe 208 755 9008

Thanks for the info.

Looks like the first bolt, number one of two, was removed some time ago on Shrinking Ball Disease in Vantage. Anyone know why or if the remover planned on replacing it? Thanks, Joe

I'm gonna be out there tomorrow. Trad, Sport, TR, Whatever. You wanna do routes? I'm your guy. Should be there by 0930. Looking to get some mileage. Call or PM before 0700 tomorrow. Leaving from CDA Idaho. Joe 208-755-9008

All Picks Sold. Machine is all that is left. Make a reasonable offer.

Race Wings sold with two new Cascade Picks. 2 Mixte and One new Cascade still available. Machine still available.

Gotta sell some stuff. One pair of Grivel Race Wings in good shape. Good for Leashless mixed or water ice. Picks are good. $200 Next up one Grivel "The Machine" with a brand new pick and Charlet slider leash. $75 Finally, Some picks. 3 NEW Cascades, $25 each, and two gently used Mixte picks $20 each.