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Trip: Canada - Guinness, Guinness Stout, Murchison, Twisted Date: 3/19/2011 Trip Report: Greatest Hits B side. Jason Baker aka Skatan and I headed to Canada to get some more ice done before I get distracted by warm spring rock climbs. Fortunately it has not been warm or dry in N Idaho so it was easy to go to Canada. Day One. Guinness and Guinness Stout. Jason had never been on Guinness and I had never done Guinness Stout so it seemed like a good way to get rolling. Pitch 1 of Guinness is a little bony right now, but the rest is fat. Guinness Stout had a trail beat in which made the hike tolerable. We skirted the two short steps and just did the 35M upper curtain. It was pumpy. Jason finishes it up here. Day Two. Murchison. The one that got away. I had some bad memories of my last attempt on Murchison plaguing me so I was pretty whiny on the approach. My previous attempt was foiled by shitty ice, postholing, and a wounded flask. This time was much different. Nice trail. Excellent ice, easy for the grade. Spectacular scenary finish. After soloing the first 40 M we were able to do this in a 70 M and 75 M pair of pitches. Day Three. Twisted. It was formed up as a mostly ice line. Very little mixed climbing required. Photos don't do it justice. First pitch 30 M WI 3 to fixed belay. Our second pitch went up the ice for 50 M. Then a 40 M WI 4 finish. The second pitch was pretty bongy. Might not be around much longer. Twisted is on the Left. Glan Managerie is on the right. Tons of fun. Good Partner. Bring on Spring!! Approach Notes: Follow the trails.

sold

Thanks for the offer. But, I really need the 0 and 1. If budget allows I'll get the 2 from ya.

Wanted. Metolius Master Cams size 0, 1. In decent condition. I can pay via check or Paypal. Thanks Joe

Still available.

I wore these puppies for several seasons. Size 10 UK. I wear a 45 in Sportiva and other Scarpa's. Probably around 50 days on them. Soles and liners are still in good shape. No insoles. Add your own. There is a small tear in the fabric on the back of the shell on the left boot. It does not affect function and is in no danger of spreading. Would like to get $100. Make me an offer.

Rebel Yell, Chianti NEB Goode Anything in Darrington, never been there! More new routes in the Idaho Selkirks Bugaboos Squamish Haven't been there either. Maybe pair that up with Dtown. ALWAYS NEED PARTNERS. Shokes, you out there?

Good Work.

I agree.

Zeroforhire said he wanted the pack at 253 pm so it is gone along with the snow cross gloves.

Pack is one size fits all. I'll ship on your dime. volume is 28 liters.

One Grivel Air Tech 28 super light pack. The zipper is blown out on the inside pocket. Otherwise the pack is in good shape. No holes in the body. $30 Mammut Stratus Hooded Jacket Men's Large. One 1 cm hole in the hood that has been fixed. Coat is in good shape otherwise. Nice puffy coat. $100 The next items are some Charlet Moser wool gloves, size Large. Mammut Snow Cross gloves size Large. Cloudveil Softshell hat size S/M. Buy the jacket or pack and I will include a pair of gloves. Looking to get $10 for the hat. Shipping is on you. Paypal would be best but I will take checks.

Rob, I am not sure what point you are trying to make. Granted I don't know of any studies but I am going to assume that most people are in favor of even the simplest of regulations for many things. For example. No pissing in the well. Many people could get behind something like that. Possibly even the personal freedom types. As far as nukes go i have to agree with you. I draw the line at personal nuclear weaponry. It is a poor tactical decision to use one on your own government or anywhere near yourself or others if you have any interest in sticking around. Who knows, Maybe if the technology gets better and the price becomes more affordable I could add one to my personal protection arsenal. Sporting is an excellent use for firearms and a nice way to enjoy being out from in front of the keyboard or tv. However, Defense against tyranny of all sizes is a legitimate reason to bear arms. I do believe it is a last resort. India and Egypt have shown us how it can be handled peacefully. Rob, If we your all or nothing reasoning to our everday life then we could be faced with dilemmas like.... No more drivers licensing OR as soon as your born you get a license. Legalize and de regulate ALL drugs or Ban all drugs. No in between. Kiss your ibuprofen goodbye.

what if what if what if. You guys are boring. Accidents with firearms are tragic and sad. Poor training and supervision are to blame. If someone wants to kill you without a gun they will get it done. Violence is the issue. Look at how people are getting offed in the UK lately. Gang knife attacks that are successful. This is NOT one knife attack. Multiple knives, multiple attackers. GREAT SUCCESS!! But, the beat goes on. Blah, blah, blah. Do you believe that the second amendment exists because our founding fathers were sportsmen? They had recently revolted against a tyranical government. Now, I am a practical fellow. I believe fully auto weapons should be VERY HARD to acquire. I also am not super psyched about these militia types that hang around our areas. However, I am taking personal responsibility for my own training and own defense. I have acquired self defense training and I own guns. I take great care to avoid being vulnerable but, I also know that there are times when certain tools or training could become necessary. Like the previous seatbelt argument stated. Every once in a while someone survives some horrendous accident unbelted. However, I am not that guy. In fact, I am not as lucky as that guy. I will provide for my own safety now by wearing a seatbelt. I am also inclined take care of myself if I should end up in a bad situation. I choose to wear a seatbelt. Wear a Helmet. Stay out of harm's way. Pack some personal protection.

Carlsberg was the most technical of the weekend and was predominantly hooking. Weeping Right was the steepest and hardest to protect. Professors was HUGE. Unbelievable. Definitely a bit of a "Greatest Hits" weekend. Can't wait for some warm March Ice.

Yes

Nice Work Fellas.

I recently had the opportunity to take a short fall, about 6 feet total, onto a 13cm Grivel Helix placed in the top of an approximately 2 foot diameter free hanging icicle. I was only 20 feet up and I was trying to get off the little cicle and onto a larger one. I was using a single 9.1 rope. In this situation I felt the screamer was a great idea....and it did its job. I put screamers on all screw placements that are not good. So, basically if the screw is pushing out shavings or a nice ice plug for most of its length then I could go with a regular draw. If it is doing less than that I screamer it. I have six screamers total and that gets me through most routes. I have witnessed a lead fall onto a 22cm screw in bad ice that had a regular draw on it. To my surprise it held. Go buy screamers. They are cheap insurance.

Thanks for the advice Climbercam. Sometimes folks get a new item. Use it a couple times and decide it doesn't fit into their way of doing things. A lot of the items in this yard sale section fit into that catagory.

Hmm. What is that anyways?

Looking for a couple BD Ice Screw Ups and a Metolius PAS. Of course condition matters but I don't expect the ice screw ups to be like new. However, it would be nice if the PAS has had an easy life. IF you have these and want to sell PM me an offer and i'll send you a check with freight. Joe

Found one. thanks

Anyone up for some climbing in either location. I can lead and have gear. PM me if you are interested. Joe

Brand New Arcteryx Sidewinder SV Pants Men's Large. Pretty sweet pants but not what I need. $225 Shipped CONUS.

Yes, I will have a vehicle.