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Looking for an ice buddy for three days. I have the 21st off as well but I don't get off work until 0800 so its a travel day. I have gear and experience. Joe 208/755/9008 or plugugly76@hotmail.com

Road is in very good shape. No booty, sorry.

Anyone up for the w ridge paisano n face burgundy link up on Monday assuming the weather holds? PM me. Joe

who likes Motorboatin'?

A good strong cough can cause spontaneous pneumo's in the elderly.

awesome. thanks!

Does anyone have the Topo for paisano pinnacle's easy route, the 5.9, that they wouldn't mind emailing or linking? Thanks, Joe

Here's a little extra. Did this route yesterday with Dave Fulton. We managed to do the fin. Rack was a set of stoppers and 4 link cams. Take extra 48" slings and you'll be able to protect the blocky fin feature. Tim, The last pitch of the fin is the best part. Nowhere near as licheny as down below and well worth doing. We took a 30m rope and that worked out great.

Thanks Chris for the good trip.

nice dude.

Still looking. Bump

Looking for a partner for a day trip up either of the S Face routes on prusik. I'm willing to lead all of the pitches but swinging leads would be nice.

Thanks for the support fellas. I certainly DON'T think i'm the only one around the PNW. It just seems like the Chimney Rock traffic may have decreased a bit. Hard to say on that one for sure though as the register was replaced within the last year. I agree the first pitch of Free Friends is in your face. Well Dave and Eric. That's two additional parties. I stand corrected. Surprised we weren't assholes to elbows up there. Regular traffic jam! Hope you guys are doing good. Maybe i'll see ya up there. Joe

found

Day trip. S Face Prussik. E Face Lexington. Paisano/Burgundy. NW corner NEWS. Many options. PM me. I'd be coming from the east side so probably a trailhead rendezvous. Joe

Trip: Chimney Rock - Sancho's Date: 7/25/2009 Trip Report: Did Sancho's with papa Zach aka "Bigbro". Only one other person climbing yesterday....on a saturday in july. What's up with that. For that matter there have only been about a half dozen parties up there this entire summer. Very weird. Anyway, Sancho's My second time up this route. It is 5.9 and climbs the left buttress of the west rappel chimney route. It is in good shape. I had a #4 camalot and a #4 friend. The friend was too small for the crux pitch and the camalot was almost tipped out. If you are not comfortable running it out you should bring something a touch larger than the 4 camalot. Otherwise, great climbing and a nice day. Minimal bugs until the afternoon when it began to heat up. So, take the bug spray. Gear Notes: a number 4 camalot and something a little larger.

Trip: St Paul - Northeast Arete Date: 7/2/2009 Trip Report: I'm on the tail end of my first summer vacation and I wanted to go do something a touch different. I first saw this arete after scrambling Rock Peak and St Paul peak in 03'. Next thing I knew there was a book out and a route description, sweet. This will not be a blow by blow TR. However, there are some things that I noticed that may be of use to you/your team when you venture out to do this puppy. If you own a short wheelbase passenger car you could make it to the trailhead with some very patient driving. Tires that are at the beginning of their life cycle and a spare with air in it would be a good choice before venturing up the road to cliff lake. As of yesterday you could drive to within .25 miles of the trailhead. The approach to the saddle between Rock and St Paul takes about an hour. I brought rope for the Rappel off the notch, just not enough. A 50m single would probably do it but I had a 20m capability. However, I did manage to make it into the East Face of St Paul by way of 3rd/4th class scrambling. If you had done a nice flat contour from Cliff lake you would intersect the ridge near a point where a fairly wide ledge cuts across the East Face of St Paul. Right now it is covered in snow, ice axe/self arrest pole would've been nice. The ledge eventually peters out in a touch of 4th class downclimbing. This section of rock was slick due to runoff. It would likely be dry in August or later. Thaddeus Laird's route description is accurate and easy to use. The rock climbing on the arete is fairly straight forward. Typical of most alpine routes, don't get hung up on finding the exact features the author describes. I found that when I was confused I chose the line up that looked the best and was near the crest. The crux pitch, pitch 3, is interesting and can be climbed in mountain boots and looked like it would protect well. I chose rock shoes for the security. Overall, it took me a couple hours to get up this thing. Pitching it out would take most of the day. If you are looking for a long rock climb that is clean and every pitch is something that you would climb if you encountered it at the local crag, then you best move over a drainage and climb Ojibway. St Paul is an alpine climb, in an excellent position, with spectacular views, and it has all of the associated route finding challenges and terrain variations that make alpine climbing fun. The crowds will be at Cliff lake sunning themselves. You'll likely be the only one on this route. Gear Notes: Extra slings for tie offs. Single set of nuts and friends would be plenty.

Dude, total bull shit. Unfortunately I sort of did a clearance of my old stuff a while back so I don't have much extra. However, I could start you off with a harness right away if you need one. Let me know. What's your waist size? Joe

Did the sunshine route on 06/26. Only one other party. Tilly Jane approach adds about 1.5 hours.

tilly jane trailhead

You get on Cannon right at the trailhead. From the parking lot follow the road around to the east and then xc up the old burn.

Partner found.

Looking for a partner to swing leads. I've been up 3 pitches. Jonesing to finish it. I'm coming from the east side. Meet you at Index? Joe

Thanks for the beta guys.

Hey you folks who love montana. aka bug, powderhound, freih, etc...is the second weekend of may late enough to comfortably camp and climb at the Humbugs? Is there a water supply anywhere near the wedge? Thanks, Joe