Dr_Flash_Amazing

From www.8a.nu this morning: "John Mallery reports: On a visit to New Hampshire for a showing of his movie about climbing in India, Chris Sharma made a quick 4th ascent of The Fly, 9a [that's .14d -- DFA], at Rumney on October 28th. After falling from the last move on his FLASH attempt, Chris made two false starts, and then sent the route to the anchor. The Fly was put up by David Graham 2000. Perhaps it is time to start working on the harder open Rumney projects like Super Fly and Bill Clinton? Sharma's ascent of The Fly is the fastest ever ascent of a 9a. Remember 8c is still to be flashed... " And an impressive performance from up-and-coming Bend/PDX homegirl Kristin Yurdin, while we're at it: "Kristin Yurdin from the United States becomes the 7th woman to break the 10 000 border by adding some hard onsights in Red River Gorge. Flux Capacitor, 7c+[.13a] was her hardest onsight ever." Nice work, senders!

"You're a rattlesnake and you're full of shit! I fuckin' hate you! You're a rattlesnaaaaake!"

You could try getting a hold of Gary Rall (PRG owner guy); perhaps he is involved with the Carver Climbing Club, which is maybe also involved in Madrone re-opening negotiations. Or perhaps contact Ian Caldwell (find one of his posts on smithrock.com for his e-mail), as he is (or was, anyway) the local Access Fund rep. Those would be good starting points, anyway.

"I always thought if you want to change the world then you have to start with yourself so if the heads of state want to end terrorism they should go ahead and kill themselves!" - Anti-Flag, 'No Borders No Nations'

SUBLIME Today's Unplayed-For-Days wake-up call is courtesy of the still ahead of its time eleven years later punk/dub/ska/reggae/r & b/hip-hop tapestry known as 40 oz. to Freedom (the original version on cassette with the tracks you can't get on the CD, or anywhere for that matter). Holy wow! Bradley had something special up his sleeve, or maybe something special stuck in his veins; too bad he had it right when he sang "one day I'm gonna lose the war" on the far less classic but not without its brilliant moments Robbin' the Hood. Back to the crates, stacks, and CD racks, folks. Unearth a goodie you never should've buried!

if I want some beer I don't wanna hear 'bout how I missed the show 'cause I drink too slow so pass me the beer bong won't take very long for me to put down this torpedo to the ground (chorus:) 'cause drinking beer's too slow! Beer bong's the way to GO! TO GO! Don't drink too SLOOWWW! if I want some beer I don't wanna hear 'bout how I missed the show 'cause I drink too slow so pass me the beer bong won't take very long for me to put down this torpedo to the ground (chorus)

Is this perhaps due to the greater number of persons swarming easier routes or trade routes? If a bunch of choss thaws out of the snow and comes rocketing down the mountain, it's got a much higher probability of taking someone with it if there's a ton of people in its path. And with more people, you've also got the issue of spreading out the amount of time people are on a given route, increasing the "window of opportunity", if you will, for something to happen, along with increasing the likelihood that an objective danger type of event is going to claim a victim/victims. It would seem that the inverse (or converse? Obverse? Opposite?) would be true w/r/t relatively fewer soloing deaths. Far fewer people are out there soloing, thus you've got far fewer of them to be killed off. And, probably adding to this would be the soloist's extremely high level of focus and attention (per JK), likely high skill level, and the attendant planning and preparation hopefully undertaken as a result of said skill, focus, and attention, which would hopefully go some way toward mitigating more avoidable disaster scenarios (see minx's puddle-slipping anecdote, e.g.). Deux centimes.

The offending bolts were protecting the crux. There was what was clearly the "old" bolt, which was easily pulled out and then hastily pushed back into its hole; this sat a bit higher than the "new" bolt, and had a sling on it for easy equalizing of the two. The "new" bolt featured its own special brand of swizzle stick action, and even with both bolts clipped, it wasn't too reassuring. As for the retreat, it wasn't too bad, and certainly no worse than paddling around above the bolts in question. Yeek! As for the arete in question, that'd be Close Shave, and DFA only knows of one person who has climbed it, although there have surely been more ascents than A___'s and Alan Watts'. Per the Smith Bible: "Close Shave 5.12c R *** Bolts An unmatched arete ascends the underside of the Monkey's neck and chin. Close Shave frightens away almost everyone, since only four boults protect 65 feet of climbing, but you'll have a bolt at your face on the crux. The hardest moves tackle severe slaps up hte arete, with nothing but air below your feet. At the mouth cave, join Panic Point for the final section to the rappel anchor at the nose boulder."

In all seriousness, what is this thread about? Really now.

Looks like he's winding up for a fierce back-handed pimp slap there!

This isn't about 'Magnum, PI', is it?

Holy crackers, this thread sucks long Donkey Kong dong. <--- doesn't even begin to describe it Oh, and in preemptive reply to the inevitable "blah blah don't have to read it blah blah" response: That's irrelevant. There's no excuse for a thread as boring and pointless as this. Go choke on a nut tool, tool.

Perhaps that'll boost the chances of your 1040 being reincarnated as David Rockefeller's, causing you to receive a tax return larger than the GDP of most industrialized nations!

That Nichols cat was clearly insane. People aren't s'posed to have that wild-eyed look all the time, especially when accompanied by nervous laughter and quips about the UN, black helos, etc. You sleep with a loaded gun under your pillow and let a bunch of people with cameras into your house and tell them about it, you're asking for it. Fuck the nutjob.

It's certainly not Halal!

When DFA's car got stolen several years ago (full of gear from a recent trip -- dumbass), the insurance co. only required receipts for items over $200 in value. Having none, the solution was to simply report a few extra things in the sub-$200 range to make up for the difference.

Ah, yes, an unparalleled sufferfest there. Between the runouts, the horrid rock, and the coma-inducing boredom of the actual climbing, it's a world class suck-a-thon.

Had a similar experience with Bolt From the Blue, which was thin and insecure near the top, kind of like it is now, but on totally jingus holds that seemed to be waiting for just the right moment to all bust off at once, probably when you had a big mouthful of slack as you went to clip. A recent return to the route, figuring it couldn't have been that bad, revealed that things had cleaned up wonderfully and left a really enjoyable route. Alternately, a return to Flight of the Patriot Scud Blaster after many years revealed a horrible one-move crux, this awful no-footholds chest-scraping dyno to awkward slopy sharp-toothed mini-jug move. Made the Doc wonder why he had climbed the thing in the first place. Monkey Space is probably next on the list of memory-dulled experiences to have another crack at. DFA is convinced that the only reason he didn't complete the route so many years ago was the jingus bolts at the crux. Or was it the pants-wetting exposure? One of these days ...

Family time!

Discounting alpine and big wall routes, where frightful rock and general terror are de riguer, what's the shittiest route you've ever plowed through? For whatever reason; crappy rock, horrible clip stances/bad bolt placement, unpleasant climbing, tasteless chip-job, ridiculous rope drag, whatever. Let's hear the worst of the worst. DFA would have to nominate "That .10d Route" at Smith on the grounds of flagrangly bad cleaning/lousy rock, and a total sandbag at .12a. "Cool Ranch Flavor" would also have to be in the running for its greasy, unfun, one-move crux, which is totally out of character with the 5.8 hueco hiking on the previous four fifths of the route.

Ditto the ice/general inflammation control recommendation. According to the nifty home health guide book that Legacy Hospitals just sent the Amazing household, ice is far more promoting of healing than heat, despite heat's temporary soothing properties. On a related note, they do recommend ice with the caveat that you only use it as long as it seems to be helping with pain/inflammation (and they're talkin' about like 4x/day for 10 min. ea. time, FYI), otherwise it's not that useful.

Prolly not!

So DFA was rummaging the discs for some tunes this morning, and realized NOFX's classic 'Ribbed' had not been spun in an eternity and then some. "Holy fuckin' fuck!" exclaimed the Doc, slinging the platter into the disc shuffling laser machine. Overshadowed for such a long time by newer albums and other bands, overlooked and remembered as only being so-so in comparison, it was a pleasant surprise to remember why DFA loved the album so much in the first place. Hello? How you gonna avoid a record with songs like 'Moron Brothers', 'Gonoherpasyphylaids', and 'Malachi Crunch'? Anyone else rediscovered an old favorite lately? Spill it.

Wait, no, seriously, what is the saying? Anyways, it's still lookin' pretty cold over there, highs in the 40s. Warm up thoroughly and prepare to battle numb tips as you near the anchors.