Dr_Flash_Amazing

Thanks much, Courtenay! Outside also concluded by pretty much saying that it was best for a plateau-breaker and best if incorporated into periodized training. Just have to get motivated enough to do the periodization thing ...

In DFA's experience, good crag dogs pretty much sit still and don't bark every time something moves. They don't jump on people, try to eat your food, or step on ropes. The whole "sit still and be quiet" thing is pretty much the key element, though. Some meathead at Smith a while back had a couple of mutts with him over at Rope de Dope, and he was just letting them go apeshit; they were barking for several minutes straight, which was fully audible on the other side of the river. Someone finally came over from Morning Glory to see whose dogs they were and if maybe they could be quieted, and the dog owner basically told the guy to get fucked, and pretty soon threats of an asskicking were being swapped. So, maybe being a considerate dog-owner is part of the equation, too. It's awesome when dog owners take responsibility for their animals, and deal with them (i.e. get them to stop being obnox. or remove them from the area for a while until they chill) when they're being obnoxious. That's the Doctor's dos pesos.

Dr. Flash Amazing was reading the latest issue of Outside Magazine, wherein there is an article about "Super Slow" training. The general idea was doing very few reps over a couple of minutes, constantly keeping your muscles under load ("time under load" being a key thing one would keep track of with this program), using about 10 seconds for the lifting and 5 seconds for the lowering. Apparently one can get some good benefits from a very short workout, and only a couple of times a week. Does anyone have any experience and/or insight on this method of training? Outside Mag. cited a few reports and training centers that use this method, and apparently it's a very efficient way to get strong and ditch fat, provided one has the patience. Is this something that would only work with weights, or could it be applied to pushups, pullups, or situps/crunches as well?

Greg W (the great straight warrior) is gonna take it in the butt, and like it!

Anagrams of "eight equals d": heat squid gel dig the squeal hide squat gel Hmmm ... it must mean something ...

quote: Originally posted by scot'teryx: He has this problem with other dogs, and will try and take them down at all costs. He has never had a problem with people, but has serious separation anxiety, but he was from the shelter so we have no idea what type of environment he came from. That being said, he stays in the garage when we go climbing or hiking. ... hence this photo of the pooch out on the trail.

quote: Originally posted by snoboy: Does the access to the gorge at Smith count? Hell yeah! That probably qualifies as the world's shortest via ferrata!

quote: Originally posted by Chepe: just take a hit of acid and drytool Godzilla at Index free solo, you'll learn fast or splatter! HA HA HA HA!!!!!!!!!!! The Doctor read some article in one of the climbing mags years ago about some dudes who would drop acid and solo routes in the Black Canyon, and they had t-shirts that read "Blotter is My Spotter." [ 11-12-2002, 03:58 PM: Message edited by: Dr Flash Amazing ]

quote: Originally posted by rbw1966: quote:Originally posted by Greg W:

Y'all ain't got nothin' on the Christmas Mouse.

Ahhh, yes! That's right, being outdoors. Thank you, wise Canada-man.

Being outdoors ..?

Is the "belay knife" so you can cut the rope and walk away if the climber you're belaying starts acting gay?

quote: Originally posted by rbw1966:

Nonsense! A dog needn't have opposable thumbs to climb! Just needs the, ah, balls to do it!

That's probably why the Mouse is making with the fists like as if to pop somebody one. Sharing a dressing room with a randy Santa is bound to piss anybody off!

You've got a point there about 11+ slabs. Krikey!

"yeah right, we all know you were trying to hide your track marks junkie." What, like you don't spike a vein once in a while? C'mon ...

The Doctor's had his eye on that route for a while; glad RuMr has some info on it. For contrast to RuMr's beta, DFA was told by a trusted hardperson that the 5.11 slab crux was extremely heinous and blank, kind of like the bottom of Liquid Jade, but worse. S'pose there's only one way to find out ...

Someone's got the Climbing Magazine day planner!

*searching for the "shaking head and looking skyward with hands raised in wonder at a hitherto unimaginable display of duuhhhhh" emoticon*

Dr. Flash Amazing's most traumatic scarring resulted from an unfortunate PAGE TOP incident involving a cement truck, sixty feet of 3/4" copper pipe, four M-80s, and a bucket of squid tentacles. Oh, the horror.

"Then I came 2 or 3 falls away from sending Chain Reaction. Maybe RuMar or Ropegun2002 can give me the beta but I’m having real issues moving past the 3rd bolt and getting to the far left pocket. Kicks my ass every time." Here is some helpful Chain Reaction beta, from one of the Doctor's posts at http://www.smithrock.com . Disregard any steps that do not apply to you. OK, from the first bolt: - Left hand to big jug above - Clip 2nd Bolt - Right hand to arete - Slap up the arete - Feet to the right a bit, highstep right foot on arete - Right hand way up arete to good thumb catch, about a foot below horn - Switch feet on arete, keep left knee pointing left, drop right leg around right side, scumming with foot if desired. - Let go with left hand, sit on left foot, reach all the way to the horn, or the pocket below the horn, then bump to the horn. - Stand up on left foot, right hand goes to butter dish - Clip 3rd - Step left foot to square pocket on arete, lock off on horn with left hand - Scum right foot up right side of arete - Bring right hand up to thumb catch edge - Surf left hand out to jug - Slide right hand in to arete - Slide right hand up arete - Highstep right foot to horn - Left hand moves to large gaston - Switch feet (whoah!) - Chill - Right hand up to 2-finger pocket on arete - Stand up and clip 4th bolt - Left hand to bucket at lip - Feet up a bit - Slap right hand up arete over the lip - Keep going with the right hand, as high as possible - Feet way up on crappy divots - Huck for jug with right hand - Stand up to thunderous applause, clip anchors - Lower off - Say "Psh! Felt like .12a to me!" - Go get some tacos and a Negra Modelo

quote: Originally posted by rbw1966: That was underhanded Allison! The Doctor has to hand it to you two, you've really got the tacky humor gig nailed.

In the humble opinion of relatively un-head-wounded Dr. Flash Amazing, that was one of the most enjoyable pieces of tragicomic message board entertainment ever. "Oooooo!"