Attitude

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: quote:Originally posted by erik: the things that helped me with it....was broadingin my partner base... I agree. I have climbed with about eight different partners off the .com this year and have found that it makes me more self-reliant within our little climbing team (i.e., I KNOW what I can do, I don't completely know what he can do). Like Erik said, you don't become dependent on a partner you're comfortable with. Sounds like you're both ready to join the mounties.

quote: Originally posted by JERRY SANCHEZ: I heard the lightest stove is easily made by using a tuna can and alcohol. How does this process done? You can get the tuna drunk and talk her into carrying your gear.

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: "...the only thing that gathers [hand gesture] my interest and holds [hand gesture] it is bouldery, powerful moves ..." - Todd Skinner Let's compare. How many great mountaineering books or stories have you read? How many great bouldering books or stories have you read?

quote: Originally posted by trask: Why the hell would some wanker want to carry a bigassed unwieldy kotex pad into the wilderness? It's a recommended first aid essential to bandage heavy bleeding of the smacking your head against the rock variety as well.

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: a bit of a hyperspraying cheeseball.... This is too easy...

quote: Originally posted by Bug: There seem to be some legal beagles out there. Fire away. Where is thelawgoddess when I need her. Then when we're finished, she can answer these questions.

quote: Originally posted by trask: I dunno, DFA sounds like a loud-mouthed, "my-shit-doesn't-stink" arrogant braggart with a menial job in the social services, an ex-wife he can’t keep satisfied, and an unhealthy obsession for phallic symbols, lame flames, plastic fantastic & American crapboxes...what do you think? Choice cc.com material, then.

And Dr. Flash Amazing is neither.

quote: Originally posted by jules: WTF? What kind of criminal charges would they have been able to bring? I don't get it..... web page I'll point out the obvious... ...people died not of natural causes. The police are required to investigate. Think suicide, lovers quarrel, partner imbeds ice axe into ropeleaders head because he bought the wrong flavor of Gu, psychotic side effects of Diamox, Caveman trundling rocks from above (with aggression! ), etc.

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: OK, friends. Who wants to remind the Doctor of what an autoblock is? (We get lowered off of sport routes.) I do! I do! Shoot, someone beat me to it.

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: And then there's all the friction you get when pulling the rope, which might not do much to the rope, but is going to play hell with the sling, leaving potentially compromised crap for the next party to dangle from. Correct. That's why alpinists avoid rappeling from bare slings found on route. Always check found slings for the burn mark where the rope was pulled through and deposit in local recycling bin at end of climb.

Led a pitch of R&D and belayed up my follower. He got to the top and said he found a piece with a runner that was not clipped into the rope. Apparently, I had clipped it into the long tail of my tie-in knot. Got to the top of a sport route, clipped my daisy chain into the anchor and untied from the rope. As I was getting ready to thread the rope through the chains, I noticed that, not only was the biner on my anchor not locked, but the gate was fully open as well and ready to pop off.

Buy a plain, generic crash pad and then head to Kmart. Martha Stewart has a collection of removable pad covers that will complement your chalk bag, rasta cap, and hacky-sack. Prices are right, as Martha really knows how to get really good deals.

quote: Originally posted by gschryer2: quote:Originally posted by Dru: "why can't i bring my gun into Canada?" And my favorite, US/Canada question: (Sorry, not climbing related, but Dru inspired me. American: Do you guys drive on the other side of the road in Canada? Me (Canadian living in States): Yeah, you should see the giant lane interchanges at all the border crossings! Speaking of Canada and guns ....

Dr Flash Amazing is neither.

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: quote:Oh, and Dr. Amazing Flash is neither. First of all, aside from a little bouldering, DFA had never touched granite before venturing up OS. Secondly, given the alpo hardperson nature of this forum, the Doctor figured 7 pitches wasn't that long, and 5.9 wasn't grossly hard, since DFA is constantly getting slagged for not being alpine enough. Seeing as how a trad gumby like DFA was able to do it, he figured most anyone could.[/QB] Exactly.

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: quote:Originally posted by Attitude: Useful beta: R&D is an interesting 4 pitch climb but routefinding isn't always obvious. Use a 60-m rope and this is easily a 3-pitch climb. Way fun!! Oh yeah, the only route-finding problem I encountered was on the first pitch: go right, then up. After that, the 2nd pitch chimney is pretty obvious; from the top of the chimney, move right and start up some nice handcracks and it's all good from there. Some people belay from above the chimney and break that pitch into two. The move to the right above is key for the moderate climber. There are several cracks that go up and over. I believe the one to the right is easier. Also one can undercling the flake to the right if they can't make the crack. Also it depends on where you start the first pitch. One alternative is to start lower on the buttress to the right. Agreed, fun climb. [ 08-08-2002, 02:43 PM: Message edited by: Attitude ]

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: quote:Originally posted by Attitude: Dr Flash Amazing is neither. As contrasted with yourself, who has provided a veritable cornucopia of helpful beta on the Leavenworth area. Before slandering the Doctor's good name again, please print out a copy of your post, roll the paper up into a small tube, and tap it firmly up your ass with a piton hammer or like device. With the paper placed thusly, find a comfortable seat, and meditate for several hours upon your worth as a person. Hopefully you will then realize that you must first better yourself before ever saying anything about Dr. Flash Amazing ever again. If you review the start of the thread, the poster asked for suggestions for "easy to moderate routes to climb while I'm there. I would prefer to try some granite cracks (I haven't even touched granite yet!), possibly even a short multi pitch..." This does not describe Outer Space at all. Sending ill-prepared novices up more difficult routes is one reason why Mountain Rescue stays busy. Useful beta: R&D is an interesting 4 pitch climb but routefinding isn't always obvious. Castle Rock is more straightforward - Saber and Midway (2 pitch, but can rappel off bolts after 1st pitch.) Mountaineers Dome: There is a nice 5.6 crack, but must be creative making an anchor at the top (walk off to the left). Oh, and Dr. Amazing Flash is neither. [ 08-08-2002, 03:03 PM: Message edited by: Attitude ]

quote: Originally posted by Jim: Sorry don't know what happened, but I didn't post this to this thread. Honest. And you ridicule other people's mistakes.... Honest!

Climbingshoes.com

quote: Originally posted by krazy 1: Just wanted to know if there are any chicks out there that would like to make an easy run on Adams Labor day weekend. Let me know if your interested, sorry guys - unless you want to undergo a sex change operation or get kicked in the nads pretty damn hard, you aren't included. Not that we don't love you... but ya know, ladies only this time. Must....resist....urge....to make....Lambone....joke....

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: Silly alpine/trad climbers! If you crack open your Smith Rock guidebook, (which was published in what, 1992?) and refer to the "Ethics" section, there is a blurb about means of ascent. The idea of leaving the draws hanging and calling the no-falls ascent of a thusly-prepared route a "redpoint" harkens back at least a decade, and is endorsed by none other than Alan Watts, American Sports-Climbing Hero. The concept being that with bolts already in place, the point of a sport route is to push one's physical limit without having to dink with gear. So while hanging draws adds some difficulty to it, it's far from the same amount of difficulty added by placing gear on a trad route. Why don't you just top-rope it?

quote: Originally posted by carolyn: Ive never had any issues flying w/my pocket rocket! Gosh....

quote: Originally posted by trask: Hummers Rule!! i could use one about now Heading to the mall?

quote: Originally posted by MF206er: I love to take my dog out with me when I'm sport climbing. He's a Border Collie and he gets a little hyper and barks a lot, but he's never really a problem. Last weekend some climbers at Vantage complained that he was knocking rocks down and told me not to have a dog at the crags. I don't really think it was a problem and i plan to take him always. Your dog is obviously a problem for the other climbers. Quit being selfish. Leave him at home.