Attitude

Led a pitch of R&D and belayed up my follower. He got to the top and said he found a piece with a runner that was not clipped into the rope. Apparently, I had clipped it into the long tail of my tie-in knot. Got to the top of a sport route, clipped my daisy chain into the anchor and untied from the rope. As I was getting ready to thread the rope through the chains, I noticed that, not only was the biner on my anchor not locked, but the gate was fully open as well and ready to pop off.

Buy a plain, generic crash pad and then head to Kmart. Martha Stewart has a collection of removable pad covers that will complement your chalk bag, rasta cap, and hacky-sack. Prices are right, as Martha really knows how to get really good deals.

quote: Originally posted by gschryer2: quote:Originally posted by Dru: "why can't i bring my gun into Canada?" And my favorite, US/Canada question: (Sorry, not climbing related, but Dru inspired me. American: Do you guys drive on the other side of the road in Canada? Me (Canadian living in States): Yeah, you should see the giant lane interchanges at all the border crossings! Speaking of Canada and guns ....

Dr Flash Amazing is neither.

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: quote:Oh, and Dr. Amazing Flash is neither. First of all, aside from a little bouldering, DFA had never touched granite before venturing up OS. Secondly, given the alpo hardperson nature of this forum, the Doctor figured 7 pitches wasn't that long, and 5.9 wasn't grossly hard, since DFA is constantly getting slagged for not being alpine enough. Seeing as how a trad gumby like DFA was able to do it, he figured most anyone could.[/QB] Exactly.

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: quote:Originally posted by Attitude: Useful beta: R&D is an interesting 4 pitch climb but routefinding isn't always obvious. Use a 60-m rope and this is easily a 3-pitch climb. Way fun!! Oh yeah, the only route-finding problem I encountered was on the first pitch: go right, then up. After that, the 2nd pitch chimney is pretty obvious; from the top of the chimney, move right and start up some nice handcracks and it's all good from there. Some people belay from above the chimney and break that pitch into two. The move to the right above is key for the moderate climber. There are several cracks that go up and over. I believe the one to the right is easier. Also one can undercling the flake to the right if they can't make the crack. Also it depends on where you start the first pitch. One alternative is to start lower on the buttress to the right. Agreed, fun climb. [ 08-08-2002, 02:43 PM: Message edited by: Attitude ]

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: quote:Originally posted by Attitude: Dr Flash Amazing is neither. As contrasted with yourself, who has provided a veritable cornucopia of helpful beta on the Leavenworth area. Before slandering the Doctor's good name again, please print out a copy of your post, roll the paper up into a small tube, and tap it firmly up your ass with a piton hammer or like device. With the paper placed thusly, find a comfortable seat, and meditate for several hours upon your worth as a person. Hopefully you will then realize that you must first better yourself before ever saying anything about Dr. Flash Amazing ever again. If you review the start of the thread, the poster asked for suggestions for "easy to moderate routes to climb while I'm there. I would prefer to try some granite cracks (I haven't even touched granite yet!), possibly even a short multi pitch..." This does not describe Outer Space at all. Sending ill-prepared novices up more difficult routes is one reason why Mountain Rescue stays busy. Useful beta: R&D is an interesting 4 pitch climb but routefinding isn't always obvious. Castle Rock is more straightforward - Saber and Midway (2 pitch, but can rappel off bolts after 1st pitch.) Mountaineers Dome: There is a nice 5.6 crack, but must be creative making an anchor at the top (walk off to the left). Oh, and Dr. Amazing Flash is neither. [ 08-08-2002, 03:03 PM: Message edited by: Attitude ]

quote: Originally posted by Jim: Sorry don't know what happened, but I didn't post this to this thread. Honest. And you ridicule other people's mistakes.... Honest!

Climbingshoes.com

quote: Originally posted by krazy 1: Just wanted to know if there are any chicks out there that would like to make an easy run on Adams Labor day weekend. Let me know if your interested, sorry guys - unless you want to undergo a sex change operation or get kicked in the nads pretty damn hard, you aren't included. Not that we don't love you... but ya know, ladies only this time. Must....resist....urge....to make....Lambone....joke....

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: Silly alpine/trad climbers! If you crack open your Smith Rock guidebook, (which was published in what, 1992?) and refer to the "Ethics" section, there is a blurb about means of ascent. The idea of leaving the draws hanging and calling the no-falls ascent of a thusly-prepared route a "redpoint" harkens back at least a decade, and is endorsed by none other than Alan Watts, American Sports-Climbing Hero. The concept being that with bolts already in place, the point of a sport route is to push one's physical limit without having to dink with gear. So while hanging draws adds some difficulty to it, it's far from the same amount of difficulty added by placing gear on a trad route. Why don't you just top-rope it?

quote: Originally posted by carolyn: Ive never had any issues flying w/my pocket rocket! Gosh....

quote: Originally posted by trask: Hummers Rule!! i could use one about now Heading to the mall?

quote: Originally posted by MF206er: I love to take my dog out with me when I'm sport climbing. He's a Border Collie and he gets a little hyper and barks a lot, but he's never really a problem. Last weekend some climbers at Vantage complained that he was knocking rocks down and told me not to have a dog at the crags. I don't really think it was a problem and i plan to take him always. Your dog is obviously a problem for the other climbers. Quit being selfish. Leave him at home.

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: While up there we killed time by trying to invent the next million dollar outdoor product (inspired by the cliff bar story that we read many times to eachother). I came up with a "Crevase Finder." Sorta like a fish finder, but for big dark cold holes instead. If there are any techno wizes out there who'd like to help me make it I'll split the profits 70/30 with ya. From the makers of the Avy Poodle come the next innovation in Alpine Travel, the Crevy Poodle . Just let loose this little wonder when descending a glacier in a white-out and simply follow the footprints. When the footprints disappear in a deep dark hole, you've found your crevasse! It couldn't be simpler.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: If you climbed mt si you are experienced If you climbed Mt Si, you're an experienced hiker. If you climbed Mt. Si in your plastic boots, you're an experienced climber.

quote: Originally posted by Space Jug: Hmmm...Bone sure did turn into a prick all of a sudden. I wonder what gives Hormones. You know....

quote: Originally posted by chucK: Not me Attitude!!! You "going light" nutz are accidents waiting to happen!!! To those guys planning on Dragontail in another thread, take two damn ropes! Take two damn 70m ropes!! And make sure you use a freakin' double fishermans!!!! And that other guy...what kind of a numbnutz are you?!!???? Just pack yer freakin' boots AND ice axe AND unless you wanna die before you even get to the climb wear some GODDAMNED crampons!!!!! And for that other guy, Prussik Peak is f**kin crowded as the goddamned smog inspection station on the 31st!!! Bring a big ol' book (A LONG ONE!!!!) or you'll be sorry. Plus, that East Ledges "Descent" Route (you might "descend" farther and faster than you think!!!!) is much easier to do if you have yer crampons to put on when you come to the heather parts. And as for Sharkfin Col....c'mon you guys!!!!! bring two GODDAMNED ropes, and fat ones too!!! Do you really wanna DIE because you were too light to not go light!!!! Sheesh, what a bunch of numbnutz'z. No wonder so many people have bit it this year in the mountains. Bring your 11th essentials or you WILL DIE and your momma will cry . And Lambone, buy (or steal from VW) a goddamned altimeter and GPS and bring two sets of extra batteries next time. Plus a spare phone. Exactly.

quote: Originally posted by fleblebleb: Hey, is anybody else thinking that a whole discussion about (a) going light, and (b) multi-day trips and forecasts, and © both at the same time, is just waiting to happen here...? That discussion would never happen in this forum. The party line here is Twight says "Light is right. Pass the Gu." People who pack for contingencies are gapers to be publicly ridiculed.

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Your points are well taken, and I respect those who chose not to bring or use a cell phone when climbing. Sure, maybe we jumped the gun...who is to say. Plus they said they enjoyed the practice and were relieved to participate in a succesfull effort. The army guys in the Chinook wre way serious, but grinnin the whole time! I think you made a relevant point in your TR that it was better for you to call 911 than your parents. If your parents had called, they would have been looking for you all over the mountain. That alone probably significantly reduced the risk to the rescuers. But too many copters have fallen out of the sky this year on rescues already. No matter how much 'fun' it is for the pilots, they should stay home unless absolutely needed.

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: This little experience taught us alot about each other, the mountains, and how we would do things diferently next time. I'd be curious what you come up with, after a period of reflection.

Just Lu! No, wait. That's just Gu. Sorry about that. "Can we get a cleanup on Aisle 5, please?" [ 07-31-2002, 09:20 AM: Message edited by: Attitude ]

quote: Originally posted by trask: personally, i couldn't pull my money fast enough from the market after 911 municipal bonds and mutual funds for this child now...slow, steady and relitively safe for the long term Muni bonds? You must be rich. They only make sense for people in the highest tax brackets.

Great trip report. Glad you guys made it back.

quote: Originally posted by texplorer: One thing I haven't seen mentioned is that the stronger climber should be the lower climber. If the top climber falls it is like a leader fall. If the bottom climber falls there is a possibility that the rope could be pulled through the last piece and the top climber be slammed onto the last piece. Check erden's post above.