RuMR

Lambone, I think Mr. Chips does have a point in saying that the partner should have been a little more diligent. How do you think the people there would feel if they had to cart out a dead person? I can't even remember how many times i've seen something sketchy and said something and there was no accident to deal w/... I totally agree w/ Mr. Chips saying she got away w/ pure fricken' luck...hell, the piece that caught her she didn't even place...Now assuming that the anchor she placed was (or should have been) multiple pieces, and they all blew, what is the likelihood that the critical piece of gear, had she of place it, would have held...My vote is absolutely ZERO and in good conscience, I would have stepped up and said "I don't think you can lead this and if you choose to proceed i am not going to be a party to it"...

Metolius will sling cams other than their own for a nominal fee...I think it was around 4 bucks or so, plus return shipping...They'll also poke around and inspect the cams if they are metolius cams...

Chuck WHoops...forgot to answer your first question regarding why changing the physical difficulty isn't the same as the danger level... This is similar to the aesthetic issue in that its all relative to the individual. You probably run it out a whole lot more on easy (this is relative to your ability) than on hard (also relative) terrain, right? So a 5.12 or 5.13 climber could very easily take the stance that 10 bolts or 1 bolt or no bolts will not impact the difficulty of a 5.8 line, but you can bet your bottom dollar he'd want those bolts (at least enough to keep him off the deck) if he was operating near his own personal limit. I don't think its fair to say that protection bolts make a route easier or harder as a blanket statement. In order to say that, it depends on the climber and the climb. Moot question and it again boils down to an aesthetics issue and an impact one. In my mind, those are more reasonable arguments for or against bolting than saying its like chipping because it makes the route easier.

A0 bolt --> aid Chipping (to make it easier) --> aid Protection bolt --> still gotta pull on the *natural* line so i guess i would say the A0 bolt is equal to chipping for ease of climbing; although aesthetically its not... but that's the funny thing about aesthetics...its subjective and in each persons own mind. Main reason i'm an engineer and not an architect.

Spot on... couldn't even be stoked that other people were climbing on the line...

That was kinda my feeling. There are several routes at smith that i did earlier repeats of. Being a little bit shorter, i'd find a different way than the "intended" way, only to come back to link it and find the hold broken off or the hold filled in w/ glue. This was after the first ascent had been done!!

Hey Caveman... What do you think about chipping a route into a HARDER line than what was there...I don't personally agree w/ it, but do know of it being done.

perhaps you could differentiate bolts/chipping by looking at the damage to the rock? Bolts can be pulled (as a few members on this board have done) and patched and are virtually invisible. A drilled pocket/chipped edge is definitely visible. Bolts also don't alter the physical difficulty of the line, only the level of danger. In my mind there is a HUGE difference between a bolt and a chipped hold.

Hey Hey R... Hope things heal up well and fast...don't rush it and you'll be as good as new...

At least you're not fat and old.... Read your PM's tim...

Hey rg2k...I have done that one, its hard and kinda has a nasty fall for your ankle if you aren't careful...gotta wait for cold for it... No, went up into cocaine and stayed there until it cooled...it was a mob scene on the front side... When are you next getting down there??

hey tim...I'll look when i get home...

Hi 666... Welcome back...i was feeling lonely w/o you... Sorry i stood you up for index...but work reared its head (lame excuse but real)...then off to yosemite... I'll catch you out there one day...

Well I guess I owe you a "HELLO"... Yep...the guy i was supposed to climb w/ bailed on me and now currently has a bounty posted on his pin head...Tim stepped in and I had a great day craggin' w/ him...kinda outta shape, but i'm working on that...

quote: Uhhhh Now I know who you are you did see me, but with JK not tex, tex didn't show up for a while after you left congrats to your wife she rocks! Ok...I'll play...where did you see me?

Yeah...I was turning blue trying to get her back climbing...oh well, gasp ...inhale...breathe and move on...I still like climbing and always will... How was your foray to the gorge??

Hey Erik... The wife rocked!! She came in at 4 hours 9 minutes and 53 seconds...this after having a baby 7 months ago and losing a month because of a C-section...I was stoked to see her go and she definitely paid her dues this summer... Now, if i can only get her back to climbing...its been 7 years so i'm not holding my breath...but one can hope!!

i agree the front side was not the place to be...we trundled up cocaine gulley and played chase the shade until it cooled down in the frontside... i think i saw you in the parking lot w/ Tex...but not sure since i've only seen photos of ya on the website...

Its a little bit intimidating...but still .12a... There's a slight right hand movement to skip the original crux of going straight up that slightly softens the route, but its still sustained nubs to the top...Also, this weekend was smokin' hot, probably not the best time to try that thing...

Yeah...That's at Summerville lake, near the NRG...during the summer, the rez is in so a lot of the climbs bust right out over the water... The really steep thing he's on is 12+ or something like that...if you look closely, you'll see the "winter" equipment...ie, bolts for when there is no water below...There are miles and miles of that stuff...

Whoops Try this one...

Check this...even DFA would like this... cs.html

Isn't that how every climbing trip goes? HA HA HA Oh well...I'm sure I'll get bouted...happens alot...

quote: Kurt Smitth is a retard. He drilled holes onto a big wall with a power drill since his nutsack was too small to climb it clean. I suppose your tiny brass nads are enough? Alot of shit talk from the peanut gallery if you ask me...

damn...you DO know me!! whiney -- correct short -- correct bitchey -- correct hangin' on the rope -- correct most of the time... you left one adjective out...that'd be fat ass... I'm leaving for family trip to Yosemite on wednesday...but i'd like to get one more day in...work schedule should let me go though...see you there... Answer me this though...Have we climbed together before and if so where??