RuMR

we will see if V15 is to be confirmed... Yeah, throwin it down when it counts is awesome...i do that every night in my dreams...Oh well... RG, I'm trying to get back in shape...I think Redmond will be the ticket under the new management...it rulez as of late...we'll see, though...tough w/ two kidz, but i've got some motivation since the wife is out running marathons right now...Didn't she realize that your supposed to take it ez when you just had a kid? Iain...Chain is ALWAYS under siege by a ton of people...and a sandbag is a deception-->by that definition, I wasn't sandbagging myself...I have no illusions about how bad i suck

listen ropegunsquirt...I SUCK...Can't believe how bad the punk crew shut my schtuff down last night at Redmond...I'm going to take up knitting...

I saw Tommy Caldwell redpoint that route...he said you finish w/ some v9 moves (the crux) at the top...the endurance factor is what gets you on that thing...If you think about it, Jam Master J has only got 4 "real" moves...but its only been done a few times...the moves on that have been equated to V11-V12...the current standard for bouldering is around V13 to V14 or something like that, right?...Yet JMJ is only given .13d...a few hard moves (but not limit-moves) are absolutely sick when you have to clip, recover and keep climbing... I'm only talking about observations that i have made over 17 years or so...I don't climb anything hard...

whoops...double posts...this bulletin board stuff is v12 at least...i'm a dumb a$$

Leading some 5.10's at smith? 5.10's at smith don't have anything on them that's harder than v.0-...and most of the actual climbing wouldn't even make the v scale on them... 5.11's at smith typically have nothing harder than v.1/v2... 5.12's at smith may or may not have v3 climbing on them w/ the odd shorter .12's having something around v4 or v4+...Take Chain Reaction, for example,...benchmark .12c for short routes...that thing in the gym would be v4-ish if plastic...Another example would be Churning at .13a...any 5 move chunk of that route would be v2 to v4...you just don't get much of a rest. The YDS rating will reflect the endurance to hang on, rest when given the opportunity, and protect yourself...so, if your top-end leading is 5.10, you'd be maxed to climb a short v4.

Leading some 5.10's at smith? 5.10's at smith don't have anything on them that's harder than v.0-...and most of the actual climbing wouldn't even make the v scale on them... 5.11's at smith typically have nothing harder than v.1/v2... 5.12's at smith may or may not have v3 climbing on them w/ the odd shorter .12's having something around v4 or v4+...Take Chain Reaction, for example,...benchmark .12c for short routes...that thing in the gym would be v4-ish if plastic...Another example would be Churning at .13a...any 5 move chunk of that route would be v2 to v4...you just don't get much of a rest. The YDS rating will reflect the endurance to hang on, rest when given the opportunity, and protect yourself...so, if your top-end leading is 5.10, you'd be maxed to climb a short v4.

Peter Puget: Climbed w/ both a bit...Erik in Europe and Smith, some at Index...Andy was mainly at Smith when i was living there... Yeah, if given a choice between the two for that specific route, I'd pick Andy...still would rather have one of them do it on the sharp side than me... Regarding my comment to Dwayner, i should've been more clear. My impression of his view (and maybe yours?) is that there is no respect for traditional climbing from sport climbers. I was merely countering that w/ some examples of people who respect EVERY form of climbing and perform at a high level whilst doing so...Then I made a $hitty point that their level of competence came, in part, from sport climbing and gym climbing...two things he has a clear dislike of. Shouldn't have tried to make the second point as it muddied the waters. For that matter, i dig all facets of rock climbing, both traditional and sport climbing. My sport climbing is only a notch higher (1 number grade) than my trad climbing, and that really depends on what I'm doing. Additionally, Dwayner never did respond to my question about East Face down at Smith...I'm curious if that would be considered an abomination in his mind, because if it is, i have no clue where he's coming from and what his deal is...

Damn...another paper of mine just got a b+ due to poor tense use of the verb *is*...ahh crap...guess that's why i went into engineering...

A skill he no doubt learned from jumping off onto a bolt at the vertical club, no doubt!! HA HA HA...

Does anybody remember Andy Deklerk? Man, that guy was the quintessential all around climber...mountains, aid, wall, crack or sport, ice, or sunny bouldering...and he did it all at a very high grade...5.12/5.13 cracks, 13+/14- sport routes etc. Another decent all arounder would be Dr. K...he'd never admit it, but he was a damn fine crack climber as well and does decent at ice as well... I think the key to these guys was their training programs/climbing volume of which a significant portion was plastic and sport climbing. Mr. Dwayner would be hard pressed to find a "trad-only" guy that could go w/ them regarding enthusiasm/love for climbing or technical ability. And he can say whatever he pleases, the proof is in the pudding.

I'm w/ TimL here...its all good...why classify oneself as a trad or sport climber? Go climb bolted faces...go climb multi-pitch trad routes...go climb at Smith...go climb at index or yosemite or indian creek or rifle...if its raining and your wife is giving you grief about road-trippin' w/ buds go pull on plastic, who cares (but you) anyway? If you lump yourself in a category, you've just halved your fun and that's stupid...I enjoy an onsight at my limit, but i also enjoy beating a route into the ground and finally walking away having sent something that kicked my a$$ previously...and I believe that makes you a better climber, period...

I have a pair of them...I sized them exactly like the pink anasazi's and 1/2 size BIGGER than the velcro anasazi's What size do you wear? I have a brand new (never worn at all) pair that is a UK 6 (US 7) for a $100.

Fair enough...you answered my question that your attitude wasn't a "knee-jerk" response...I agree that there is a total difference between clipping bolts (actually just a hanging draw, usually) in a well controlled environment and being blasted, hoping for some kind placement w/o knowing what's coming up... If you don't mind, I'd like to pick your brain one more time...What do you think of Alan Watt's ascent of the East Face of Monkey face as it was done on preplaced gear, but not permanent gear w/ a fair bit of rehearsal? You can walk up to it now and find it in the same condition as when he first spied the line...no bolts, no nutz, no nothing but the line...How does that fit into your ethics? Or does it?

You didn't answer my question...have you ever tried it? And don't reply "I didn't inhale"... How do you know what i like? What my ethics are? What my choice of protection is? You don't know me and I don't know you...so please refrain from making a judgement about me...I was only agreeing w/ Tim's statement about it seemed that a lot of people are losing sight of the fact that in general climbing should be fun some of the time...Otherwise, what's the point?????

Just curious Dwayner...But have you ever gone sport climbing just once, before you ripped it apart? Not trying to pick a fight, I'm just curious that's all...

Hey Ropegun1999OldSkool...Not good...didn't even get on it!!! Work bellowed loudly about me even going down for the wedding...so I only spent a day and a half there and then turned around and drove home...man I was pissed!!! Got a bit of bouldering in (i know, totally lame) as that was all i had time for... But, I'll be down there in September for two weeks...super stoked... How did your deal go????

Hey Attitude... Isn't it spelled moraine? Does that make you a moran? Or is it moron??

damn hook hurts in my mouth...

No...KR got 5th...the kid who won was a Russian citizen, so he can't hold a slot for the world team from the States...They normally take the top four, so KR gets in at 5th... All in all, the NW kids did pretty well, jurka made the finals, Daniel came in 12 or so...girls did pretty well as well...John Harkness just missed the cut for the 18-19 finals... HA HA HA you crack me up caveman...I'm definitely neither Max or Lambone...but you can think that if you want...

Nice try as far as what?

What does colorado have to do w/ climbing or this thread?? Hey Lambone...the boy wonder pulled down at Nationals this weekend...not that its real climbing anyway...

Nope...not Lambone...just another tool Regarding topic, this is a stupid thread anyway...work sucks so I thought I'd stick words into Otherguy's mouth and a stick into a hornets' nest for entertainment... Brits/Canadians...what's the difference?? (Now there's a jab)...

Caveman, caveman, caveman...THAT'S AID...different topic...

Hey Dru... That rules...and, to toss in some spice, that would be 1 foot above a crocodile-infested lake, right? That whole sit-start thing was started by the canadians anyway

Touche' I always sucked at devil's advocacy... i guess i did stick all those words in your mouth and my foot in mine...oh well... but, i didn't say anything about aidcimbing a 5.12 crack...you did...and spice could be danger or could be physical difficulty or could be combination, right? Spot is still offered if you fall into category 2 and your buds are stuck in cubicle land...