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RuMR

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Everything posted by RuMR

  1. WERD.
  2. oh the shifting sands of logic...FUZZY LOGIC, that is...
  3. where's that sense of commitment?? those balls? why do you need the protection before the move?? YOU SANITIZED IT with a bolt...what's wrong with a dangerous route? Why does it have to be led? why why why? Especially if you could have soloed it????
  4. Um, whatEVer. yeah, whatever to you...why don't you use that big fat ms salary you were spewing about to buy a 10 muthafukin' visit punch card and quit bitchin...jeezus whoops...scratch that last post...got you confused with snugtop...proceed on...
  5. Um, whatEVer. yeah, whatever to you...why don't you use that big fat ms salary you were spewing about to buy a 10 muthafukin' visit punch card and quit bitchin...jeezus
  6. This is old news. Most who have climbed it feel the route's single bolt is appropriately placed in a spot where reasonable protection is not available. Without it, you'd have to do the crux and face a big, swinging fall back into a shallow dihedral, or maybe hit a ledge. If bomber gear existed at the crux, there would have been no bolt. The crux is gymnastically much harder than the rest of the route, which means a climber could easily reach the crux and then find himself way over his head. The guidebook incorrectly credits a handful of people for this climb when it was mostly the vision and effort of Scotty Hopkins. The bolt hole was drilled on the lead, but our 3/8" Fixe bolt somehow didn't fit the hole. We then borrowed a rotohammer from Jim Phillips and put in a 1/2" bolt at the crux. Scotty, Jason Mikos and I thought it was about 5.9+, but it went in the book as 5.10b. Feck and others have taunted that if I were a "real bad-ass", I wouldn't have placed a bolt. May I comment that: (1) I'm not nor have I ever claimed to be a "real bad-ass". (2) I could free solo the route if it would make you happy (but I probably won't because I'm a daddy). (3) I'm not an anti-bolt Nazi. Bolts have a place in climbing. ...so let me get this straight...you placed that bolt to protect someone who might arrive at that crux unprepared? Isn't this akin to "protecting" the masses, only slightly ever so slightly less? It sure would be nice if you were consistent (besides the consistently annoying via ferrata cum fratboy-tool photo that crops up incessently) in your logic...cuz right now, i'm having a hard time seeing how you aren't sinking in your quicksand logic...
  7. I'll concede that many routes have been established on rappel with excellent results. But if you scrutinize the photograph, you'll notice a difference between this (possibly) lead-placed bolt and what you see at Exit 38 or Smith: the bolt in your photo doesn't exist in a grid of bolts. My problem with rappel placed bolts is not the result but the method. Rap bolting is just WAY TOO EASY. One needs zero skill, zero commitment, zero balls, zero ability, zero experience and zero judgement. The result is that anybody with a Bosch can establish a route, and too often when you look at what is getting bolted, one can only conclude that is exactly what happened. Bolted climbs today are sloppy and crowded together. Short "routes" receive far too many bolts, and this mentality spreads into Wilderness areas and to traditional crags. Climbers get used to having a choice of clipping the bolt by their knee, hip or shoulder, and then they expect this sort of artifical experience everywhere they go. Maybe there's a bold lead on Castle Rock that only a few people have managed over the decades. Maybe it's getting a little dirty. Gee, wouldn't it be neat to put some bolts on it so that it's comparable to that route on the east wall at the Redmond Vertical World? And who wants to lug a rack of large cams up the Grand Wall for that undercling above the Sword? Ain't it neat that we can just clip bolts and zip past? The worst thing about rap bolting is the attitude it fosters. So for me, how the bolts go in matters. Sport climbing and rap bolting represent the ultimate disrespect for the traditions of mountaineering, and also absolute laziness and the rejection of a "leave no trace" ethic. Now go back and study your photograph. Imagine that same cliff in Leavenworth. There would be at least five other bolts visible in the neighborhood of the one you've clipped. That's because here in Washington, "It's all good". Makes me wanna puke. if i remember correctly, perry's lieback was done as an A0 ladder, not free climbed first...bolts have nothing to do with "zipping" past it...they were aided...nowadays, no biggie... I may be wrong...where's that fuckin' squid lover, dru, when you need a piece of trivia... anyway, proceed on...
  8. hey...i didn't say that...Only cuz he said it first!
  9. wtf? who flickin' cares...
  10. yeah...but that is a FUNNY pic!
  11. Hey crispy dick, yer lookin' a little shriveled... better go buy that corvette for that impending mid life crisis...
  12. i know...the real issue is you feel robbed of the incredible climbing at ex 38, don't you??????
  13. no none has to climb anything, actually...these days, i don't climb much of anything and am grateful for whatever i can get...whether its bolts or plastic...hell, even marymoor is cool... Come on, quit being a dick...I was explaining Kevin's point of view...its a sliding scale...grey...fuck, man, you and dwayner just make everything fucking so black and white...get a fuckin' life and take up a worthier cause... I've put up face climbing routes on gear in the late 80's that were marginally difficult for me to onsight ground up on the east coast. Later, i was contacted by other climbers who wanted to add bolts to those routes to make them "safer". They were, when i did them, kinda serious and involved cruxy climbing well above rp's and other small gear at mid .11 climbing with huge fall potential involving potential groundings (this was back when that was kinda considered hard, not cutting edge)...big deal...others wanted to climb them in a different style...do i care? NO...have at it...20 years ago, i'da told them to fuck off, i'd rather moss grew on them...now, shoot, if more people would enjoy them, what do i care??
  14. Dwayner and his sidekick poop are all about themselves...only themselves...and they will couch their attitude in a "more ethically pure" bullshit frame. Its funny, but Kevbone's whole point in bolting is to protect people who are to follow him later...people he likely doesn't even know...yet HE is called selfish by them...
  15. yer a tool, still....
  16. fuck that...bolt the hell out of it...
  17. a bunch of families are heading to squamish, barring rain, with kids in tow this weekend... intersted?
  18. he's still mediocre by these definitions... he's unique, but only because he's exposed to stuff...i think most fit kids would do as well as him...they just don't get exposed...no biggie...
  19. if you don't care, then why did you post, assworked? Seriously, you're screaming "i don't care" so loud i think you do care...otherwise, move on... good post, Tim...i think up to 13 a or b is achievable by anyone who can get a decent amount of climbing in with some specific training...so, by definition, that's "middle of the road", right? You gotta be gettin' sick over there! with all the eurobadasses running around, some of it has to rub off on you and E!!!
  20. RuMR

    Last weekend

    oh contraire... mom used to be a solid 5.12+ climber... and hey, this just proves that "ugly" is recessive, right?
  21. RuMR

    Last weekend

    there's a few in my gallery from last year...haven't updated recently though...
  22. RuMR

    Last weekend

    GOTTA BRAG... my 7 year old absolutely hiked full japanese gardens, except for a hang in one spot (the reach over from the big fattie handjam to the face climbing crap at the top)... we had to shut his trap down though...put him on iron horse to quiet his trash talking down...
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