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iain

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Everything posted by iain

  1. iain

    Self Rescue

    for some reason I've never thought about using purcell prusiks in an anchor system. Would be convenient to shorten or lengthen a component of an anchor. Not sure what kind of shock load a prussik in that situation could take before it started glazing. time for some more drop testing.
  2. iain

    Sisters

    maybe consider climbing up NW ridge of BT as well and flail off 11'o'clock couloir and then out to dutchman. if 11'o'clock does not look good you have a good ski back to above green lakes then out to snowmobile land.
  3. iain

    Sisters

    yes that would be pretty miserable. I've found that SE ridge to be pretty ugly in general as you weave up those gendarmes, deep drifts of snow on one side, ice, and at times, bare rock on the other. If I were to climb there again had the choice in the matter I'd just go up the Hayden G. even with the extra distance, etc. take the skis up the main south ridge to ski down at the traverse to the collier g, then head over to middle sister I guess. I've wondered if the west face left route on north is skiable. Nice trip guys!
  4. Here was the scene over by Mississippi Head on Mt Hood this weekend. Be careful out there in the sun on those se aspects!
  5. yeah signs of life/learning to fly/dogs I have heard that album in so many altered states of consciousness and in so many good times that I can almost get in that state just by listening to it. love it.
  6. iain

    Sisters

    I usually find it very fast to ditch the trail early at the first junction early season and head up the ridge keeping b-top in view on the left. this gets you to treeline quickly and you can head over to se spur if you want to bother with that annoying route or do the cool routes on the east side (e.m. couloir or thayer headwall, both very cool).
  7. Freedom Rock
  8. that would probably be them. that area was probably the most dangerous spot on the mountain besides wy'east this weekend and sure enough there were a bunch of crown fractures all along the rim up there. oh and low and behold, some tracks coming down from castle crags.
  9. I hope none of you guys were the yahoos plunge stepping down west crater this weekend after bailing on the sandy or whatever.
  10. not to mention some serious slide potential off the west side faces, that stuffs always sluffing and we let loose some whoppers in zigzag canyon up at hood this weekend, one guy was partially buried for at least 15 min.
  11. if conds were the same as the hood area I predict the traverse on the south ridge (if you went that way) was a wallow in porridge.
  12. isn't climbing based in boulder or something? I think this is self-explanatory
  13. I've never heard of "tuck and roll" being used as a self arrest technique
  14. I find the silver "pigs in space" accents on the stock liners quite fetching too
  15. nice pics guys. always have looked over at tam mcaurther from n sister and stuff but never considered the skiing possibilities.
  16. any member of the physics club doesn't count.
  17. iain

    which vehicle?

    The standard bed on the Tacoma is barely enough to sleep in lengthwise. Just a bit over 6 ft.
  18. This sucker was the source of agony and much blood loss
  19. I have never experienced more pain more quickly than skateboarding.
  20. I know my vision gator will be back in style at some point
  21. iain

    which vehicle?

    I think the tacoma double cab is overpriced and you don't get much of a truck bed either.
  22. indeed I suspect he has the right arm of a javelin thrower.
  23. yep Paris is where I ran into these beasts, over in the Montmartre part of town. Pain in the neck to keep change around for those things.
  24. iain

    Which 4WD SUV?

    sorry, credit where credit is due...
  25. iain

    Which 4WD SUV?

    ...outside an apartment complex in florida...
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