Crackbolter

No but you still have to buy the pass for other areas and then pay for Smith on top of that right?

After seeing a large number of posts regarding the Fee Demo Program, I would like your help to compile a list of access fees that we all are required to pay to access our public lands. What I am looking for are different examples of the types of fee programs going on. I am also looking for compounded fees such as Smith Rock State Park parking fees that are required on top of the Forest Service Fee Demo Parking Pass. Please include recreation areas in the Pacific Northwest. This excludes city fees such as Marymoore park. It would be nice to have everyone collaberate info so we have it available to use as opposition data when writing to our politicians. Please help! Thanks

What is a water filter? I thought the water was good as long as it was from a cool creek. What did people do back when there wasn't a filter? Did they really use iodine?

Should have done Dorado! The weather would have been perfect!!! Glad you found the pro.

Eric is correct. The this crack that curves up looks inviting but that is only because it has been climbed many times by confused souls. Head right around the corner and it puts you back on track.

Crag = Sport Yes, all of Cashmere Crags are sport climbing areas. Especially the North and West Face of the Mole, Snow Creek Wall, West and Northwest Face of the Blockhouse and the Temple ridge crags. Last I checked, no one has taken the time to drill 3/8" bolts on any of the crags. Most are either 1/4" or 5/16" hand drilled.

Crags are short climbs or short approaches. Usually Grade 2 or 3.

So is anyone sending anything to Harlin this year? I hope the enchainment gets mentioned.

I mean the routes listed. Granted, I spend some time there but I don't think all of the crack routes are in Leavenworth. I just think the majority of them are there

Swingin Affair Cocaine Crack Leap of Faith Careno Regular Route All at Leavenorth and all in the guidebook

Just enchain the peaks like they did. You won't have to worry about any glaciers and you can claim a 2nd ascent. Otherwise, just do Little Mac to West Mac or just do West Mac.

The environmental impact of eating and shitting is gigantic, idiot. Idiot? Was I wrong with my statement or just too obvious? Yes, name calling is a great addition to a healthy debate.

If you go, you wil be dealing with very broken glaciers. It would be best to plan this trip in July unless you plan on descending down to McMillan. You will be required to hop crevasses to get back down off the glacier so I would suggest bringing the proper snow anchors. I personally wouldn't try and attempt the descent this late in the year but that said, I will admit to being inadequate in this area of expertise.

There is no difference between faming chickens and farming salmon. If you want to eat healthier, buy free range chickens from PCC and Whole Foods. Same goes with wild salmon. The environmental impact of farming is gigantic! The Atlantic Salmon being farmed on the Pacific side are genetic zombies. They all belong to the same gene pool. There could be adverse long term effects to thinning the gene pool of any species. My guess is that if we rely on salmon farming for our food supply, the stocks will eventually need genetic modification to obtain the proper balance of protein, Om3 and other fatty amino acids. Only wild stocks can obtain the proper mix for a lively meat. Otherwise, you might as well be eating catfish. I see no real adverse side effects to consuming farm raised animals but that does not mean that there aren't any.

I can't rant too much. I drive a v-8 diesel van. A good friend bought a brand new SUV recently. If I had the $$ I would have a brand new one as well.

You could do Diedre and Squamish butt together. It makes all pitches 5.7 or easier except the buttress twin cracks which could be 5.9 A0 or 5.10

This is nothing new to the Pacific Northwest. Back when the Bonneville Dam was first built, the first return of salmon had no way of getting up above the dam. They also had no way of knowing what to do with them or where to put them. At first they would put the fish in holding water and truck them up to whatever river they thought deemed important. Eventually they realized that the only way to sustain populations of fish is to have hatcheries at every headwater. We now are currently raising 90 percent of the salmon and steelhead in the state of Washington by hatcheries. Most wild stocks have diminished or bred with hatchery escapees only to diminish the populations even more so. That on top of sport fishermen attmepting to beat the state record by removing the strongest and largest strains of salmon and steelhead leaves us with a big problem. Atlantic salmon were the first fish to be introduced into the PNW.They thought they could just bring their gamefish to the NW and they would have sustainable populations. The nice thing about Atlantic Salmon is that they will eventually die off and quit reproducing. They can't compete with the salmon and steelhead although they do propose a temporary threat to wild populations. I think we have more to worry about than one small farm escapement. Especially when you think about the Elwha supplying 500,000 salmon to the ocean before the dams and now we are down to about 100,000 on a good season. By removing the dam we can have an addition of 200,000 more fish within the fourth year by hatchery returns. The real objective is to remove all dams and reform all Hatcheries to regain a natural sustaining population once again. This can only happen with the sacrifice of hydroelectric power and irrigation canals or any method that does not effect the rearing or spawning grounds of salmon and steelhead.

The other 5.10 would be Gorilla My Dreams. If you haven't lead it yet, you should consider it a necessity after toping out on the lower wall left.

Dr Sniff leaves the belay at the top of the first pitch of Princely. You work right to a thin crack and enter a slot which presents a fun layback or grovel into the slot. It then meets back up with the top of Pricely again which is why I think it would be a good toprope. It might need one directional just above the crux although I don't think you would swing far. Someone was also kind enough to replace my manky slings with chains and new bolts. The slings I left were there since 96' up until last year I think. Now there are wonderful and safe bolts and chains.

Did anyone mention Dr Sniff from Princely Ambitions? Good 5.10d route.

Glad the Seattle slideshow worked out for you guys.

I don't understand your first point that the bolts are for saftey. Are you suggesting that it's ok as long as it makes a climb safer? Why not fix a line and move a jumar up as you climb? On your second point regarding the mountains, I strongly disagree. If a route is established and typically climbed without fixed protection, (Alpine or Crag), who am I to put a bolt in and "dumb it down" for the next, stronger climber than I am. I'll back off before I put a bolt in to compensate for my lack of ability to repeat a route and climb something easier. Maybe I'm just being nieve and my opinion will change with more experience. But, right now I don't see the line between why certain bolts next to cracks are acceptable and some aren't so I'm satisfied just listen and learn. I guess it's not all black and white, just pastey and gray like my belly. I didn't say I thought it was okay. The fact is, I don't care about a bolt on a roadside crag. You can bolt the crack, chip the rock and leave your dog at the base with the empty beer bottles for all I care. The ambulance is only a cellphone call away either way. If you go far enough away from your car you will see less and less bolts and more pitons or better yet, no fixed anchors at all. How many times have you climbed a route wishing you had pins or a hand drill to protect the next lead or a crux pitch? Yes you probably would back off if you were equiped inadequately. I sure would. Getting back to roadside crags, they are to accomodate the masses. The easier it is for you to climb the route and get off for the next party the better. That is all I am saying. Folks, have a great weekend.