Off_White

No, it is, you're just insufficiently in the loop.

Jay_B on the right, crazyjizzy on the left?

As of today, there are about four routes on the right side that are dry enough. The handrail at the top of Virgins is wet, and it's gonna be wet behind the upper flake on the Governor. Calvin and Hobbes is dry as a bone, and Rosy Boa looks good too.

Somewhere or other I read a screed advising against the daisy chain scenario, suggesting something about the system being too static and resulting in surprisingly high forces on your body in very small falls. I only sort of skimmed it, since I'm not an aid climber, but I think they were talking about testing pieces while clipped to the lower piece with your daisy? Does this sound familiar to anyone else?

That's a fair summation of my viewpoint, thanks for posting that one Jay.

I haven't a clue how the big names do it, I'd imagine there's a significant bit of free solo while trailing a rope, with the ability to set up a self belay when things get too crazy. Sort of like soloing the NR of Stuart, and wanting to rope solo the Gendarme pitches, just many notches in difficulty and seriousness higher. Traditional fully self belayed solo, like folks do on El Cap, seems much too slow to apply to big mountains where the "speed is safety" cliche largely holds true. I'd imagine your big alpine self belay system would need to be simple, light, and somewhat functional in storm, so fancy dan devices are probably not the ticket. If you do something like this, be sure and take pictures of your feet and post them here.

I agree. This wasn't posted in spray, so alright already with the volleyball pics.

Maybe this will bring back the Zipless Fuck and other fun things from the seventies...

You're as hopeful as Chris, who called yesterday. I dunno, things are quite wet, but predictably Calvin & Hobbes is almost ready; lower slab is damp and the roof at the crux is soaked and dripping on some key holds. Maybe by the weekend, if it doesn't rain, but we've had a LOT of water out here over the last month and the hill above the crag is pretty saturated.

Yeah, and maybe a bunch of native tribes will finally rise up, those Roadrunner cartoons were pretty disrespectful of Coyote.

This is much worse and way creepier than any random death in the mountains.

Oh, but surely now you've gone too far and doom looms for us all.

I've started answering my phone by saying "Death to the Great Satan"

leaky old fred's lips

Make sure you give Necro your expected return time.

Hah, I've got that one on VHS, one of my favorite christmas presents ever!

I put a John Scurlock photo up as the background on my desktop, and now life seems brighter, or maybe that's the sunshine...

Danish are tasty, but fattening.

unstuck on 2/7/06, until someone does something silly enough to merit a repeat visit from the common sense fairy.

I've "unstickied" this topic to help clear up the top of the Climbers Board, since the urgency of the issue, even though unresolved, seems to have waned. If someone associated with the missing climber feels I've acted in error, please let me know.

pics? I agree, cold shuts are terrible for anchors.

We'll all be breathlessly awaiting the TR. Happy Birthday

that wasn't funny.

Dru, they're talking about the game with the funny shaped ball, not the game with the round one you kick. I'm pretty sure it's not one of those games that uses a stick.

I nominate this for post of the day. Sad to report it looks like I'll never fit a size 4 again.