Off_White

Always assume the series of tugs means "you're on belay, start climbing, don't fall" In terms of non-verbal cues, you might want to use standard crane/boom hand signals used on construction sites. Of particular use are "lower" "hoist" and "dog everything"

Yeah, I've been trying to induce a second ascent for long enough that it's become a bit of a running joke. If you want any more info than this, feel free to PM me. lower red arrow = class 3 approach to optional 5.11a face pitch start upper red arrow = class 4 approach to 5.10 start green arrow = late season water source

Oh, and sometimes when you can't really communicate by shouting at each other directly, it can work to bounce your voice off a nearby wall. Ever notice how you can sometimes hear both parties on an adjacent route really well, but they can't hear each other? It can be fun to play translator in that situation: Just shout, "he says he's having an affair with your wife."

I'd have to agree with Bug, and all the other old farts on this question. If it's not broke, why fix it? I've always had the rope tug non-verbal cue work; if there's a lot of drag you just substitute "yard" for "tug" and the message gets through. Of course, it's always best to agree on your signal before you need to use it. Radios are okay, but really, it's just more crap to malfunction, like electric windows on a car.

Dan hasn't posted in two years, and his email is not set to be publicly available. However, if you were to PM him on this board, a notice will be sent to the email address he registered with, and the current board software upgrade seems to send the content of the message along with the notifications.

oooh, another goodie!

or this?

Would this one be offensive too?

Cow falls 200' and lands on a car on the highway.news story

In the movie, I thought the ways in which he touched the lives of all he met was a little too "Then Came Bronson" for me. Or "Touched By An Angel" or whatever form of the mysterious-stranger-comes-to-town-and-helps-people-with-their-problems mythos you're familiar with. I just saw the film in Flagstaff, where the locals are a little breathless. The guy who played the aging hippie with Katherine Keener is a Flagstaff ski shop owner/river outfitter who met Sean Penn on a river trip and got snapped up for the film despite his protests that he wasn't an actor. I gather he's pretty much just playing himself, but still, he's had a few other offers from Hollywood. Iluka pretty much clearly stated my take on it, and as a middle aged family guy I have some sympathy for JayB's statement as well. Tvash's musings are interesting too.

He'll visit you with locusts He'll visit you with plague He'll visit your apartment Kill your cat and break your leg Cause God is a groovy guy Uh-huh, get down.

Call me an old fart, but I still don't get it why it's so fashionable to have your girlfriend look like she's 11. Ick.

Well, with the looming time change, I'm going to unsticky this until that time comes around again. Have a great winter all, feel free to contact me if the weather makes a rally and you've got an open midday.

What's that bit about how you make 5 pounds of fat sexy?

Has nothing to do with the political party, there's just a high correlation between homophobia and closet cases.

Why are the Republicans like a bunch of 40' cocks? Seems like there's just no end to those pricks.

Porter, you're worth twice what they're paying you.

Hmmm, is that Squire Creek madness the work of Zippy, he of the 3/16" hangerless buttonheads?

Yeah, I wondered if it was chain sandwiches - their appeal is that without hangers they tend to be less attractive to thieves and you save a good $10 per anchor by skipping hangers and Rapides (assuming you use something better than small hardware store links). On the downside, there are some questionable aspects as to how they load the bolt (though sport climbing TR loads are not that high, I haven't heard of any catastrophic failures), not everyone does a good job with washers to keep from pinching the chain against the rock, and as you've noted, maintenance/replacement is problematic. I would expect that simply re-using the 5 piece bolts would be tough to impossible - the hole is likely deep enough to snug the head of the bolt up to a hanger. Since the bolt is sticking out a good inch or so, isn't it, you'd have to drive the bolt deeper. One might have to pull and re-drill (larger diameter?) or simply chop and abandon, a pain in the ass no matter how it goes. There's a lot of chain sandwiches at City of Rocks and Banks Lake too. A simpler maintenance approach would be to use either bolt cutters or a cordless angle grinder to remove the worn working end of the chain, adding a Rapide link if needed. Still a pain, and it doesn't address the question of the way the chain loads the extended bolt. How long a bolt did they use anyway, how far into the rock does the bolt go? It's anyone's guess, isn't it? In the long haul, chain sandwiches are a poor choice for anchors. I'm sad to say I've got a bunch of those to replace in Tenino too. Damned cheap bastards, who put those in anyway?

Years ago (maybe they still do?) Playboy had an annual article rating the top party colleges for those who like to drink. They always excluded the UW at Laramie, declaring that it was an amateur competition and those people were professionals.

Boy, you are being some kind of meany head. Did you get sacked, or are you sleeping on the couch again? Stand back folks, just don't get your hands near his mouth!

I'm confused as to what you want to do. Put a hanger onto an existing Rawl 5 piece? Usually works fine to just thread the bolt out and put a hanger on, the cone sticks in the sleeve, stays put to replace it. Adding chains is a matter of using a Rapide link to attach the chain to the hanger. The plus side is that maintenance and replacement is pretty easy. Bummer is that the hardware can be removed by the casual vandal out to score some material, even threadlocker is not a guarantee. Not that you'd wanna put that stuff on the bolt threaded into the cone anyway... I'm not a huge Fixe fan. Those horizontal hangers with the ring remind me of those old pop top hangers that put an outwards pull on the bolt, and the single welded ring can't be easily replaced when the yahoos TR their entire wedding entourage with their grit filled rope run right through the ring. Of course, maybe you intend something completely different?

Yes, it is best to be kind to people wearing cats, those things can get surly

MFoyp71xw3w Oh, and perhaps I should quote No.13 Baby: "Um, misogyny rules?"