ivan

well, cleaner gets the naming rights more than anything, so something along the lines of "________'s a cumgargling cock-smoker" oughtha make the whole affair more enjoyable than otherwise? is the cleaner displeased w/ the spacing/placing of bolts?

they said it couldn't be done!

the crux at the moment will be locating said holes! they were not at all obvious, even after scrubbing

definitely, you'd go bouncing off the scoop (a very strange feature, made so much more fascinating by the miniscule crack that runs through, tapering into the tiniest of rurp-fractures where it resumes the vertical) and swinging out into overhanging space!

"doppleganger's dilema" would be an excellent name for this then

Not to get back on topic or anything, but that bad rurp held and that is what I started the notorious pitch #3 bat hook ladder from. It was an Olson-made custom rurp and it was the perfect one time placement. You may have to replace it with a new hole and make it 8 in a row. The 9th piece is a really bad blade and you may have to hole it too which would make 13 continuous bat hook placements. You have my permission to put a life-saver bolt half-way up the pitch. I left the route in bad shape, thinking that no person would dare it in the future. This was the era where I disliked gym climbing the most. Sportos seemed so snooty. We did the route in 3 stages. Gymsters found they could not free climb "Go back to the Gym' (pitch #1) I dont remember why I named it that. We were bummed when the 2nd pitch blanked out . We named it "Stay in the gym" for some reason. After acquiring a second bat hook We finished the trilogy off with Pitch#3 "Die in the Gym". It scared the crap out of me. Over time I lost my cynicism towards indoor climbing, though every now and then.... Oh yea I took a 20 foot fall on the hook pitch too . It was on hook # 2 or 3? The hook below me stopped me from taking a 50+ footer!!!!!!!!!! Hows that for a story? excellent - just what i was looking for - i really didn't relish the idea of falling all that way and bouncing off the goddamn scoop - and this would explain the bizarre hole i saw too, somewhere in the scoop i think, that was right over the top of the thin crack? i was confused when i saw it, but had forgotten about it before writing the tr - the crack takes a blade or a beak i recall, but sure as hell, a nice bat hooked size hole right there! i didn't see any above the hanging belay anchor though, despite scrubbing as high up as i could reach - pity, for that i woulda definitely taken a stab at - reckon i have a reason to return now to get back on the subject of bird-bitching though, i enjoyed smoking a calm cigarette while seann cleaned the traverse - at the top of a very tall tree, at my height, just 50 feet away a nesting pair of red tail hawks kept squawking, flapping and coming back and forth to their chick, totally oblivious to our existence - why can't peregrines be a chill as these fuckers, eh?

Cool, i know a few people who claim to care, but not enough to actually step up or do what might be required to actually have a shot a lifting the closure. In general, a decade of clueless fuckups and infantile posturing and attitudes relative to managing the place has left me not really caring much what those folks think... so no offense taken. P.S. oh, and nothing I've done out there has ever been random... what's the earliest the closure has been lifted, since you been "back around"beacon? just curious..... you boyz are only allowed to bitch about beacon if, in doing so, you get my tr above 1500 views and thus earn me a cool flamey icon, dig, goddamitt?!?

i might have to get a real hammer first driving pins (and then trying to clean them) w/ a ball pien hammer, a too short leash, and a thrashed mammut sling for a funkness, on top of soloing w/ all the anchor worries, really brings out The Fear in me! looking forward to getting down to the jungle, but first i wanna climb the upper pitches on the left side of the bat wall - no shit, that pitch that currently is chocked w/ the mega-blackberry looks like it'll be awesome once the horrorshow is chopped out.

climbing the bell in may iz kool

yeah, but t'pol's way more bitchy - would make it seem far more of an accomplishment to bag her!

that's an awfully nice dress you have there mrs. clever dude, i so would have taken mrs cleaver if i'd had the chance! and mary poppins too, i've...er...come...to discover

broughtons seems to have far fewer fixed pins than beacon, i can only think of a couple that i've seen out there, and they've all been burly - that said, the force the superstition pin pulled under, upon examining it this weekend, does appear to be the kind typical in a big fall, so joe's point to not trust'em is valid

Did he have a mullet? no clue - i've found when people are waving pistols around at me, i don't tend to look at their hairdos much

tell me the story, wayne, puh-leeze! i figured the rurp failing me on the first and only decetn placement i coudl see was sign enough - i had plenty of hooks but didn't see where to use a one no worries about fixed iron joe - there's but one fixed pin, an a angle and solid, and i don't know if it's even technically on the first pitch

i had a hillybilly pull a gun on me in shendoah national park a few years back the only time i ever found the digital compass on my watch truly useful!

superstition's pin has been returned, courtesy of moof - it's the original pin, in the original hole gave "die in the gym" my best - i think the fa'ers must be damn liars! took a long scrub bush, but scrub as i might, the only line above the anchor is an incipient crack that fades into nothing just 4 feet up - the widest part is at the bottom - a rurp was damn near too big - put one in - weighted it - fifi'ed - it blew, dumping me back onto the hanging anchor, giggling like a school girl - tried my shortest kb, it just broke the rock so, so much for the a4+ line, might as well be 5.15 - in fact, it probably is to have fun anyhow, why not practicing penduluming? lowered down to the base of the scoop, at the double pin placement before the rurp-seam, then pendulumed right until i could grab the bolt stud that protected the old version that veered over to dracula - one nut on a stud, a medium kb, then you can start up the dracula bolt - at the pea-pod top, the drag was so aggravating i gave up trying to reach the dracula anchor, and nailed left to the ancient anchors under the giant hanging blackberry bush - put in 2 la's to back up the old bolts and moof did a most interesting traverse job to clean, demonstrating for me how to lower out when cleaning on two occasions (and 2 bright, cheerful orange hero loops now brigten up this neglected aid-gem!) continuing on aid above there would rock - there's a very old, ratty looking kb above the anchor, but you'd have to take a weed wacker to root out the massive blackberry bush - rapping in first to cut it out from the top would be the most sensible - a great line though, and all the pro will be pins through roofs - suprised there aren't more aid-monkeys out there to have monopolized on these lines - there's a number of ancient pin scars on "go back to the gym" but looks like no new traffic in years? how often do you get a chance to justify all those pins n' beaks n' rurps n' ironmongery in yer war chest?!? tyler - i'm calling you out dude - come show me that "die in the gym" can be done! my version of this connects the dots in this pic - left to right, via a big pendulum on the anchor just under the roof in center

aid soloed "go back to the gym" this afternoon - as the book says, A3 seems about right - tried to do the plumb line (the original start?) but it looks like a block has blown - 2 pins up there was nothing to connect to the awesome crack, so i down aided and re-started via the left option we did for "hanging tree" - fell where mike had hung on his ibis hook since i didn't have one and the sling i put around the block slid off - went furthe left and arced back in, planting a spade, then found the blown old hex placement takes a small offset nut fine - from there the fixed pin allowed me to pendulum over into the gym crack - several knife blades, then a funky #2 camalot, then an amazing scallop w/ more kb's, then a soaring crack that takes only rurps and tiny bird beaks - the old fixed head below the anchor is still good - the anchor itself is totally encrusted in horseshit, but essentially still okay - fixed back down to the ground and will return tomorrow w/ moof - the upper, a4+ (die in the gym) section will probably keep me up all night - holy shit, where's the route? the books says "7 consecutive hook placements and baaaaaad pins" - meow! all i see is upside down talculm-powder crunchiness!

that's why i'm ivan lunger, you the one w/ the dad who was the spitting image of lloyd bridges? no shit an awesome party - i was so fucking happy when i woke up that morning and skye was saying "dude, i'm feeling kinda tired - you wanna NOT climb colchuck today?" i seem to recall thinking i was actually going to have a heartattack while swimming out to that little rock island in lake colhuck too - holy fuck its cold, even in august.

t'pol - haaaaawt! ENTERPRISE actress Jolene Blalock was quoted as saying "You can't substitute tits and ass for good storytelling"

speaking of fucking aliens to achieve whirled peas, the short lived enterprise series had the hottest hot-chick ever!

it's not like we want arabic speakers on our side right now anyway, right? "i so totally hate having cocksuckers standing by me when i'm killing kids!"

i'm sure he's a badass, but when i see people like that, i think of andersonville!

whatevuuu - star trek II ed - for some inexplicable reason my folks sent me to see it, alone, in the theater at the tender age of 8 or so - the ear-wig scene alone probably cost them 10,000$ in therapy bills

totally blanking on their avatars, but erik and his buddy (wait! dirtyharry?) i know have done it as i spent a much alpine-adled afternoon bathing in the brillance of lake colchuck w/ them n' skye and they talked about it being thin and kinda run out, but fun to start - i heard it kinda fades into mungy crap though. what a day - smokes n' royal crown n' sun! a week later i developed a groovy case of campylobacter and spent the last week of the summer pissing out of my asshole, w/ a raging malarial fever!

i looked - i'm clearly a sucker for the hooker w/ a heart of gold, b/c how many times have i gone back to the star trek films, knowing the last one was the worst piece of shit ever, only to see, no, in fact, they could do a worse job. star trek V - wtf? how can you start w/ super awesome free-soloing of el capitan and then downshift into absolute, mindboggingly bad horseshit? on a side note, free soloing int he age of star trek will rock - all you need is the cool com-badge insignia and you can beam out of your 500 foot fall b4 death! wtf was the deal w/ spock's rocket-boot save of kirk in the aforementioned shite-flick?