ivan

He didn't "find a way", the way was clear - forcing an aid line up it wasn't rocket science, it just took perseverance and hard work. aren't you like 60 years old dude? seems to me old people are always rattling off about how such things are like, ya know, virtous? can't some goddamn red chinaman please come put up a purer route for me, jesus!?!

actually, corvallisclimber (who you've praised and donated gear to, as generously you have to me as well) did just that w/ the jim anglin memorial route on the plw (though he didnt' leave fixed pins b/c waht fool would consider repeating it)! and before you talk shit about his route i'd highly recommend going and looking at that wonderful thing before you threw it on the bonfire as well)

i've never climbed w/ you nate but i'd really enjoy letting you take me up this thing free, and i mean that w/ zero sarcasm - i will honestly accept your censure if you proclaim the thing afterwards as over-bolted - again, i say, there really is no "bolt-ladder" on stone soup (especially if you take "mike's lark" noted on the topo)

Only time will tell. But this is a serious chink in the wall as it makes it that more difficult for the BRSP to justify turning down someone else's request for a high fixed pro count (sport) line anywhere on the rock, i.e. the South Face. you're being hysterical - the BRSP, should that wonderful organization ever ACTUALLY come into existence, will include people who do this route and wouldn't have problem drawing lines between the ethics of the 2 sides - do you think i wouldn't start a conversation w/ some stranger heading down the s side trail w/ a drill?

dammit! a big reason for posting up the stoke for others to come do the thing and give it some validity, plus to bring in some not-irrational outside opinions...sigh. well, i still owe your 2$, but will gladly belay you up the whole thing

thanks - can i give you a crisp 2$ bill (no higher praise from a wahoo) and my thanks?

and you've done'em both too! don't think mikes done the spike route. stone soup or falcon stew or whatever we wanna call it goes up the far left side of that nw face, w/ a great gulf of choss and moss and eventually an ocean of poison oak seperating the soup line (ha!) from the spike route's topout (which is horrid compared to the later) joe, you seem to forget that i have actually adopted the central columns on the s side and cleaned plenty of them myself (& w/ you) AND don't bitch about the closure, making me i would think ALMOST (for you) the ideal beaconite - you sure you're not bitch'n just b/c you're bored and its february?

fuckit - it sounds funny and no body 'roudn here has a bit of real power anyway - as said, if you gotta be offensive, at least be creative - i listen to npr all the damn time and laughed my ass off at that creation

i don't really understand your point i wouldn't consider myself a "local" anywere but beacon, so can't comment on comparing ethics on the n side of beacon (again, it's essentially a seperate crag from the s side) to anywhere else - certainly the n side of beacon looks really nothing like anywhere else i've cragged (and that ain't a compliment - it's pretty much a dirty whore who's hot sister is currently out of the country) seems like the commonsense at ALL crags is, if you can do a route w/o bolting, then do so - if you have to bolt, but there's something else nearby that's better to be doing instead, do that. how is young warriors strikingly different again?

you're fantasy world lies in that you think it hasn't been "acknowledged" that bolts and pins were required - they're like, on the topo, dude - wtf? your argument that "there was no line" is similiar retarded - i love young warriors, but that's hardly something that you look at from the ground and say, "oh yeah, THERE it is" - wanna do a comparision of fixed gear per meter for that route? it's not heads and shoulders better. young warriors had to be pounded in to, and the free world didn't fall as a result of it, or lead to the eventual covering of all of beacon in bolts. your fear of others doing hte same at beacon is not irrational, however. i think the clear policty of no new bolted routes on the s side stands undisturbed however. as for the n side, sad to say, i pretty much got the only line that's inbounds and doesn't invovle wading through oak for the last 50 meters or running hte risk of being crushed by car-sized blocks. finally, your linking of dz or coethedral to this is erroneous too - i haven't put up a single route at either location.

you're doing the lord's work OW, keep it up! if folk's are gonna be total dickheads, at least they have to be creative.

yer photoshop skillz are for-midable olde boy! o'jay can you see!

the halycon days back when geoff still climbed!

i think we did understand it would unsettling to some, and for that reason set out to do it in good style there is no real "bolt ladder" on the climb, certianly nothign even remotely like w face of monkey or leaning tower trout creek's cool - how long you going for? i usually have single days to climb, so don't make the longish drive.

but i only speak american

okay: - make up some rules - might be nice to include some basic civil rights, checks n' balances, n' a military under civilian control - hey, maybe write 'em down? - see if you can't stick to them for a year or two before going back to the strongman? - jobs would be nice how's that sound?

sounds like homeboy just resigned - egyptians are pissing themselves w/ pleasure anyway - best wishes for them, but i imagine, as w/ any huge party, they'll wake up w/ big hangovers tomorrow and realize they actually need to get their shit together now

on the plus side, at this rate we'll have the fucking housecats thread beat in a year or so

all evidence to the contrary

you really do live in a beautiful fantasy world joe

goddammit - no fair having fun on a thursday, what w/ the weather set to be straight shit for the weekend... the would be the first complete aid-solo of the route i reckon - bastard now to do it all alone and in a day...

sounds mostly silly - just do a carry over, climbing up the cooper spur then down the s side w/ all your overnight stuff for a cool alpine adventure - or, if you must climb the spur after the s side, at least descend the spur itself, then turn around (why waste the effort by going south, way down, around, then back up again) - it's really not that bad to down climb the spur if you take a 2nd tool and don't have a big pack if you just want to spend a night on the mtn and climb 2 dif routes, perhaps put a camp on the upper ellito and do both the spur and the sunshine route, or a camp at illum gap and climb luetholds and reids, or the s side and one of those routes?

we're not all clapping funts!

this thing seems to only have one answer surely there must be a virtual 8-ball out there somewhere?